nachi crank bearings

[JIMG]

replacing bearings soon on the 394, the 2065 and eventually the 044.
I have heard people mention the Nachi brand so I am considering giving them a try.
Does anyone have part #s that would correspond to any of these saw models?
Or know where to point me to find this information?
tia

 

[cuinrearview]

394 I believe is 6203 C3 both sides. 2065 should both be 6202 C3. I haven't done an 044 but Stihl PTO sides are usually proprietary with a common bearing on the FW side. Probably a 6202 loose (C3) tolerance. I'm sure someone with them fresher in their mind than me will be along. Stateside, ebayer "shorenutz" is who I have used for Nachis.

 

[Stump Shot]

@cuinrearview hit the nail on the head. As far as brand names go I would add that any good name brand bearing of C3 quality will be just fine, such as but not limited to, SKF, Timken, slacker, THK, NSK, NTN, Koyo

 

[JIMG]

thx gents.
I have used skf and nsk before. nachi just seems to get well reviewed.
Curious...What does the C3 refer to?

 

[cuinrearview]

thx gents.
I have used skf and nsk before. nachi just seems to get well reviewed.
Curious...What does the C3 refer to?

The internal tolerance. It's a smidge more loose than a standard bearing, spec'd for applications where the heat is higher. Don't let the letters after the numbers scare you. They will refer to rubber seals or metal shields on the bearings. They can easily be lifted off and the grease inside blown/sprayed out.

 

[JIMG]

Will do. Order is in at shorenutz. I'll get to the oh44 later.

 

[afleetcommand]

Used Nachi brand for year, they work, None ever came back as has been mentioned. Lately I just go to the dealer and get steel caged SKF's IF and when the the bearings are a generic size like 6020 & 6203 c3's. Problem is Husqvarna has decided to have these unique to them bearings in many of the saws, there are NO alternatives to many. Kinda sucks. Always wonder if the newer designs with those model and brand specific nylon caged bearings will be a saw that like my favorite L77's up thru 372's can be rebuild decades later with standard bearings and seals available at most industrial supply's. My guess is the answer is NO. Maybe a reason to invest back into the older (fun) vintage OE 372 and earlier models back thru 200's into the original iron.

 

[JIMG]

Nachi bearings have been in and running smoothly in my 2171 and 2172. Loaned out to a firewood friend to give a proper workout on everything. So far so good. I am doing an 066 now. Any feedback on the New West pto bearings? All I can tell is they seem to have one more ball in them than the oem ones do. That and they're cheaper.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Afleetcommand,
If you're concerned about weird, expensive, odd ball proprietary crank bearings and plastic caged bearings, maybe take off your husqvarna/jonsered goggles.

Brand new saws do come with excellent Japanese bearings and some great prices from forum sponsors for OEM replacements.

For example: A $14 set of bearings fit both the mighty echo cs 620p and the newest echo cs 7310p:

https://www.sawsalvage.co/products/...aring-6202-fits-cs-590-cs-620-more-9403646202

That is cheaper than a set of SKF 6203 c3 bearings I bought for a stihl ms 310 build.

And unlike my husq 372 and Jonsered 2172 with paper-thin clutch covers that crack like eggshells if you look at them wrong, these echo brutes handle more abuse.

 

[Stump Shot]

@mainer_in_ak
Those NTN's, while a good brand are C4 rated not C3 as Huseqvarna and Stihl use, so not an apple to apple comparison.
I paid a bit more for NTN C3 rated bearings for a build of mine.

 

[JIMG]

StumpShot, what do you like to use for bearings when you do an older stihl bottom end?
It's kind of a moot point as far as this 066 is concerned, I already closed it up with the new west/skf in there. I am putting a 3' bar on it and breaking down a 42" maple tomorrow.

 

[Stump Shot]

StumpShot, what do you like to use for bearings when you do an older stihl bottom end?
It's kind of a moot point as far as this 066 is concerned, I already closed it up with the new west/skf in there. I am putting a 3' bar on it and breaking down a 42" maple tomorrow.

Stihl for the proprietary PTO side and either Stihl(while I'm ordering) or any of the good name brand bearings that are c3 rated for the standard flywheel side are acceptable substitutes.
I look at it this way, a ported saw puts extra everything on the crank bearings, so having(known) good ones will take that extra load, rpm, etc., vs an unknown quantity that will take??? is a pretty good step in the right direction and solid foundation for the build.
(I can't comment on your new west bearing as I have never tried them, the skf on the other hand I have used a lot and it will be fine.)
Good luck and happy cutting.

 

[Shane¹]

I don't see why you couldn't use either a c3 or c4 the 4 is a higher heat and speed rated bearing than a c3 some dolmar saws actually call for c4 rated bearings to replace the c3 that were in them when they were manufactured.

 

[JIMG]

rebuilt 066 work saw performed well except for transitioning from full throttle to idle. It would die if I did not baby the throttle for 5 or so seconds. Is there a carb remedy I should look into? Is this wandering too far from the original topic?

 

[jacob j.]

rebuilt 066 work saw performed well except for transitioning from full throttle to idle. It would die if I did not baby the throttle for 5 or so seconds. Is there a carb remedy I should look into? Is this wandering too far from the original topic? View attachment 357626

That question would probably be better posted in the chainsaw forum - would get you a lot more answers.