mix oil for 2 stroke outboard and any other advice you want to give

[wap13]

Yeah, yeah, I know another oil thread......

I just acquired my first boat. Its G3 1860 with a 90hp v4 johnson (10/2000 build date) with a jet foot and also the prop.

My question is should I just run the same mix oil in it that I run in my saws (dominator, bel ray H1R) or should I run a "marine" labeled oil like the amsoil HP marine, or klotz outboard techniplate? I think the engine only spins up to 6200ish rpms, not the 13k like a saw so wasnt sure if that would matter in my oil selection

The boat has been sitting for a year or 2. I plan to replace all the fuel lines, flush the fuel system, new plugs, impeller and anything else I see that needs attention. It looks like the oil injection system has been deleted.

Plan to run it at 40:1 but was told maybe run it closer to 32-36 as the jet foots puts a little more strain on the engine than the prop but dont know if thats true.

I have never spent much time on the water but the little I have was always with inboards and definitely no 2 strokes so any input/advice is appreciated.

 

[ammoaddict]

I think I remember that dominator is not recommended for water cooled engines.

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[Mac25]

no need for fancy oils on that johnson, Pennzoil xlf is all u need at 50-1, do add a fuel water separator between
the fuel tank and the primer bulb, install the bulb in a position just outside the engine cowling in a upward
slant.

 

[Mac25]

fuel water sep with clear bowl for outboards is 120R-RAC-01.

 

[Hinerman]

@merc_man

 

[merc_man]

I would just use any marine rated brand oil at 40:1


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[Duce]

Trade it in on a 4 stroke Yamaha. Fuel efficient and quiet. Coast Guard mechanic (my son) has torn down 5000+ hour motors, showing little wear. They report findings back to Yamaha unless a tech is with them. Those motors have 3 throttle positions, idle, full forward of full reverse. He is certified in Honda, Mercury and Yamaha plus many other diesel and propulsion systems.

 

[wap13]

I appreciate the advice but considering I have zero dollars invested, I think I'll just run it.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Yeah, yeah, I know another oil thread......

I just acquired my first boat. Its G3 1860 with a 90hp v4 johnson (10/2000 build date) with a jet foot and also the prop.

My question is should I just run the same mix oil in it that I run in my saws (dominator, bel ray H1R) or should I run a "marine" labeled oil like the amsoil HP marine, or klotz outboard techniplate? I think the engine only spins up to 6200ish rpms, not the 13k like a saw so wasnt sure if that would matter in my oil selection

The boat has been sitting for a year or 2. I plan to replace all the fuel lines, flush the fuel system, new plugs, impeller and anything else I see that needs attention. It looks like the oil injection system has been deleted.

Plan to run it at 40:1 but was told maybe run it closer to 32-36 as the jet foots puts a little more strain on the engine than the prop but dont know if thats true.

I have never spent much time on the water but the little I have was always with inboards and definitely no 2 strokes so any input/advice is appreciated.

You know if your engine is a 90 degree block or 60? They made both. Let me know and I'll give you some pointers on it and things to watch out for.


Steven

 

[wap13]

I dont but will try to remember to look when I get back to the shop

 

[Dustin4185]

You know if your engine is a 90 degree block or 60? They made both. Let me know and I'll give you some pointers on it and things to watch out for.


Steven

That year should be 60.

 

[Dustin4185]

I run whatever in my older agency boat that doesn’t have the Optimax. Penzoil and quicksilver are available local to me. I run Penzoil in my small job boat.

 

[wap13]

You know if your engine is a 90 degree block or 60? They made both. Let me know and I'll give you some pointers on it and things to watch out for.


Steven

Didnt see where is said anywhere on it so I lined up one side of a square with the plugs on one side and it was quite a bit narrower than the square so I'm going to say its a 60*

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Didnt see where is said anywhere on it so I lined up one side of a square with the plugs on one side and it was quite a bit narrower than the square so I'm going to say its a 60*

Most were. But they still had the 90 degree in production so had to ask. Way we ask customers to id them is how many hood latches. 60 deg have two. 90 deg have three.

Both are solid platforms. The 60 uses a optical ignition. Take care nothing gets blown into the plastic shrouding under the hood. Dust, dirt and whatnot will mess with the sensors eye and cause random running issues. We prop them to run up to 5500rpm. If you push them to 5800-6000 they develop a harmonic problem and will snap the crank or send the magnets out of place in the flywheel. Non issue if you keep them at 5500. The only other thing I come across regularly is leaking carbs. They are a plastic multi piece design. If you ever need to service them shoot me a pm. Do not open them up if you do not have to.

No need for 40:1 on that engine it will just carbon up. Run merc quicksilver or evinrude xd30,xd50 at 50:1 and you won't have any issues.

The oil injection on those isn't horrible as the early ones. But it you still want to bypass it. It is easy and I can walk you through it.

Should be a good engine for you. We've sold tons of them over the years.


Steven

 

[wap13]

Most were. But they still had the 90 degree in production so had to ask. Way we ask customers to id them is how many hood latches. 60 deg have two. 90 deg have three.

Both are solid platforms. The 60 uses a optical ignition. Take care nothing gets blown into the plastic shrouding under the hood. Dust, dirt and whatnot will mess with the sensors eye and cause random running issues. We prop them to run up to 5500rpm. If you push them to 5800-6000 they develop a harmonic problem and will snap the crank or send the magnets out of place in the flywheel. Non issue if you keep them at 5500. The only other thing I come across regularly is leaking carbs. They are a plastic multi piece design. If you ever need to service them shoot me a pm. Do not open them up if you do not have to.

No need for 40:1 on that engine it will just carbon up. Run merc quicksilver or evinrude xd30,xd50 at 50:1 and you won't have any issues.

The oil injection on those isn't horrible as the early ones. But it you still want to bypass it. It is easy and I can walk you through it.

Should be a good engine for you. We've sold tons of them over the years.


Steven

Many thanks.


It does have only 2 latches. The oil injection is long gone. I really appreciate the info on ignition and tuning rpms. I want to pull the tank to clean it, replace the fuel lines, primer bulb, impeller and check the plugs. Then hopefully get it in the water to see how it runs and what shape the carbs are in. Will for sure shoot you a pm if I run into anything.

You said you prop em to 5,500. Any idea where it'd be with a jet foot on it? Thats how it is now and will likely leave it that for now for running the river near me that can get pretty shallow.

Thanks

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Many thanks.


It does have only 2 latches. The oil injection is long gone. I really appreciate the info on ignition and tuning rpms. I want to pull the tank to clean it, replace the fuel lines, primer bulb, impeller and check the plugs. Then hopefully get it in the water to see how it runs and what shape the carbs are in. Will for sure shoot you a pm if I run into anything.

You said you prop em to 5,500. Any idea where it'd be with a jet foot on it? Thats how it is now and will likely leave it that for now for running the river near me that can get pretty shallow.

Thanks

I am not the jet drive expert. Have never had to get one propped correct for the application. And as a side note to that. You might be safe to spool it up a bit with the jet drive over the standard lower unit. I always believed the crank snapping issue was related to the lower unit when they redesigned it. The redesign used a much longer propeller shaft and it made everything sensitive to balance. The old short stubby lower unit never had anywhere near the quirks.

Maybe someone else will have more experience with a jet drive and chime in.


Steven