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-Knock knock! -Who's there? Yep, you know it! MS650

popopboat

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Just bought a ms650 for 70$ in working condition, has an excellent compression (even with a leaky decomp valve) , but guy said that it has a knocking sound... immidiately knew whats the problem.
Only a crankcase is aftermarket, everything else is OEM, even the knocking crankshaft.
Cylinder is in flawless condition, still some hatchmarks left.

I always wanted to try to rebuilt a crankshaft, replace conrod and crankpin, so i got a chance!
Has anyone done that here? How much force needed to separate it?


Check this out what i found while dissasesmbling, ive heard that this increases torque by 47% :p
120727797_1092009221197168_1781187621102167699_n.jpg
 

popopboat

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:eyepop:

:eusa_whistle:


I'm sure someone will be along to say you need a jig and 10ton press.


:icon_popcorn:
Yes yes
Im aware of that, im planning to do it on real hydraulic press anyways, but i like to hear what else people did.
 

popopboat

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Where would you get the parts??
Good question indeed.
Aftermarket touched my mind, but thats the last option.
I have a 064 crankshaft with broken flywheel thread part, so i could perhaps sacrifice it? Bearing is literally like new.

Nvm just realized that 064 has smaller diameter
 
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deye223

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And here's me thinking that the 650 was just a 660 with a 80 odd cc top end on it
 

popopboat

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What do you people think about afermarket cranks?
Im not a heavy user and always run 40:1 or richer.

Or, what is an okay price for an used 660 crank?
 
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popopboat

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I wouldn’t use an AM crank in a work environment. I don’t recommend them and feel like they’re just for the hobby guy who has many other saws to use when/if it goes down.
Used oem varies so much... but maybe $40-$80?
Well, same thoughts.
I am in the end a hobby guy, but i couldnt live with a feeling that it may go awol every moment...
I found a crankshaft+piston (ms660, but guy wont sell it separately) for 60$, but cant see it in person...
It kinda feels strange to buy a 60$ part for a 70$ saw lol, but i suppose its worth it as the rest of it is in literally top condition.
 

CR888

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What you pay for something and what it's worth can be sometimes completely different. If the used piston and crank are good, $60 is absolutely definitely worth every cent. Buy it! Think of the end goal of having a good saw built with good parts. That will be worth more than $130.
 

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Well, same thoughts.
I am in the end a hobby guy, but i couldnt live with a feeling that it may go awol every moment...
I found a crankshaft+piston (ms660, but guy wont sell it separately) for 60$, but cant see it in person...
It kinda feels strange to buy a 60$ part for a 70$ saw lol, but i suppose its worth it as the rest of it is in literally top condition.

If you fix it right, it won't be a $70 saw no more. ;)
 

popopboat

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Well thats the encouragement i needed lol.

.
 
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popopboat

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Okay, crankshaft has arrived.
Looks really nice in first sight, looks and feels brand new.
BUT, why is there a " N " on crankrod, i thought that stihl crankshafts have " S " like on the bad one and on the 064 crank.
Anyone with more experience can confirm is this oem or? someone fidgeted with crankrod?

121591717_338789690684347_4261618303887704052_n.jpg 121579999_766291314224981_8560638565880145756_n.jpg 121591713_945776465832486_1958344306363527383_n.jpg 121596167_1092687954483844_2772149396884857243_n.jpg 121646890_2428258640632455_6190761290828679392_n.jpg
 

popopboat

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That one is for the Northern hemisphere. The S ones are for south of the equator! :p

(FYI, just kidding, I don't know why it has an N instead of an S)
Aahh, thats why last one died, was made for south heh.


I found a OEM crank (atleast guy who is selling them on ebay states that) with a letter " T " on crankrod, maybe generation of manufacturing, or manufacturer signature?

Also markings on a crankshaft are different, this is from an old crank.
120953103_632930137388806_6229432312365045885_n.jpg
 
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