Hutzl MS660 build and observations

[I Know Something]

It’s amazing what a slight change will do.

The headaches of AM parts make them not worth it to me. Wastes a lot of time.

Not trying to bash the thread. I realize many carb cant afford the real deal.

Yeah. I'm one of those. Without this aftermarket stuff. I'd be staring at my craftsman and trying to figure out how to get 50cc's to pull a 36" bar.

 

[YZ250]

I built this saw (and will probably build another) because its like Lego for grownups - and not much more expensive! I just love playing with motors and tinkering and stuff. And to get a powerful saw out of it aswell is a bonus. I intended on using this as a dedicated milling saw but recently bought a horizontal bandsaw mill - so i'll probably put a 36 inch bar on this saw and use it for preparing trees for the bandsaw mill.

 

[YZ250]

Quick update on the Oiler mod I did whilst I had the saw apart recently - it’s now using about 80 percent of an oil tank per tank of fuel.

These photos were taken on the weekend and I made sure each tank was absolutely full before I started cutting.

 

[StihlThe1]

Quick update on the Oiler mod I did whilst I had the saw apart recently - it’s now using about 80 percent of an oil tank per tank of fuel.

These photos were taken on the weekend and I made sure each tank was absolutely full before I started cutting.

I’m very appreciative of all the helpful info and advice shared on here. I have had oiling problems since I got my Blue Beast. Every time I corrected something I expected it to “work as it should”. I’m confident now that installing the OEM oil hose should finally get me there, thank you for posting the photo of those hoses.

I’ll add my two cents here as I have had the pump out 3 times, the last time I did mod it for higher output. When I inspected it, while I was looking down the bore of the housing the shaft fits into, I could see light around the blind plug at the end. I figure it would be sucking air as certainly easier than sucking oil, or at least lowering the amount it pumps. So I used some JB weld on it after punching the plug out, and sealed it completely.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

If I understand correctly, I,m not sure that would work. As the pump would be fighting the air space. But I agree in your thinking, because at one point I thought the same. Then I changed my mind.

Anyhow, it’s early here 5.45am and I’m havin a quick read before I have to leave..

I'm sure someone else will come and tell me I,m wrong or right.. but that’s why I like being here... every day is a learning day..

 

[StihlThe1]

If I understand correctly, I,m not sure that would work. As the pump would be fighting the air space. But I agree in your thinking, because at one point I thought the same. Then I changed my mind.

Anyhow, it’s early here 5.45am and I’m havin a quick read before I have to leave..

I'm sure someone else will come and tell me I,m wrong or right.. but that’s why I like being here... every day is a learning day..

In case you misunderstood my fix... I didn’t decrease the chamber size (this area of the bore where the shaft with that impeller end fits into). I just figure like a welsh plug in a carburetor it’s designed to seal the passage that needed to be drilled. So I epoxied the end cap to prevent any type of leakage, whether air entering or some bar oil escaping there.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

After my hard day milling, I’m now suppin some hard cider, to me it’s just refreshing 5% abv cider.
I understand your way of thinking... but this morning when I was replying. What I was trying to say very quickly was. When the pump is moving back ad forward. If there is an air space the other side or a vacuum. On the pump It will not allow it to move as freely when it’s sealed up.

However as I type I think I may have gotten mixed up with the ends this morning. I did say it was early lol...

But If it works better for you then it’s a winner... I do understand you and I was still sleepy at the time.

 

[StihlThe1]

Had another go-around with the oiling system on this. Had a new OEM oil hose to install and the new Farmertec HO pump too.

The previous AM hose I installed had a slice in it where it seals in the hole coming through the case..exactly like the one that it came with.
Think the stiffer AM rubber and the sharp outside edge of the hole was causing this after the pump was bolted down tight. (I am positive it did not happen on installation of the hose through the side case because I inspected it closely).

I chamfered the pump side of this hole with a 1/2” drill bit turned with my fingers. Just removed the silver clutch drum brake band to have strait access to the hole.

Installed the new OEM hose and HO pump, did a trial cut and it’s slinging oil with the adjuster turned to the max setting. I’ll find out soon if I’ll have to adjust it back or not when I have a day of wood cutting in front of me.

 

[D B Cooper]

On my clone 660 I put the stihl High output control bolt , pump piston in the huztl oil pump housing.
The thing will oil exxon valdez good. go through over 1 1/2 tanks oil to 1 fuel on max setting.

 

[Nutball]

On my clone 660 I put the stihl High output control bolt , pump piston in the huztl oil pump housing.
The thing will oil exxon valdez good. go through over 1 1/2 tanks oil to 1 fuel on max setting.

Now test the min setting, at least on a short bar & 7t rim and tell us how much to a tank of gas.

 

[YZ250]

Hi All,

I had the saw out again on the weekend. Since the last update re the oiler I also replaced the carb with another Chinese one. I couldn't get my original carb to idle any lower than 3500rpm. Upon inspection, the throttle butterfly wasn't sealing in the throat of the carb at idle, and no amount of fiddling could fix it. So i just dropped 40 bucks on a whole new carb and that solved my issues.

The saw is running really well now. I don't know if its the new carb, better tuning it or further break in - but the saw has got serious balls now. I was using it side by side with the genuine 391 and the 660 felt significantly more powerful. We were cutting an old growth yellow box, which has a reputation for being a hard, dense timber. The pieces we got were from an arborist who dropped them off and they ranged between 800mm and 1100mm diameter. A lot of the cuts we were doing were ripping cuts and due to the size of the wood I routinely had the 20inch bar buried to the hilt for 2 mins straight. So the saw took a flogging and it performed admirably.

One thing I have noticed is that the bar and chain sets I have bought for this saw have all been too long meaning I have needed to get a link or two taken out of the chain before it will fit. The 36inch Tsumara bar pictures is a good case in point - it was bought 'to suit MS 660' but i couldn't adjust the slack out of the chain when installing it. However it bolted up perfectly to my mates MS661. Is that something others have found with their clones?

Don