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Husqvarna 50/51/55 repair thread.

David Young

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I pulled my 51 apart to fix a minor issue, as long as I had it apart, I took a pic of my solution for the crappy mounting system for the carb.View attachment 109591
Be careful with this method. The nuts can loosen and get sucked in the carb I suggest loctite or nylock nuts. You could also dimple the threads after you put the nut on.
 

malk315

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Be careful with this method. The nuts can loosen and get sucked in the carb I suggest loctite or nylock nuts. You could also dimple the threads after you put the nut on.

Those remind me of the studs for MS200T top handle. I've replaced those on ours and they are splined into the plastic likely way better than self tapper bolts on the 51/55. On our MS200 I have nylon insert nuts to keep them from backing off and risking ingestion.

This is the solution we did for my buddy Tom's 51/55 that uses bolts so no risk of ingestion.


Really the only two downfalls I see w/ 50/51/55 saws is the self tapper into plastic carb bolts that can strip easy and the impulse tube grommet that can start to leak, she goes lean, and toast the top end. The original 51 cylinder for Tom's saw was a victim of grommet failure.

The saw has new OEM 55 open port cylinder / piston, base gasket delete, and muffler mod. Saw rips w/ 18" bar .325 21LPX chain.
After only a tank was blowing 185 psi compression, probably up towards 200 now. Nice alternative to a 60 CC saw -- could easily be the middle saw in a 3 saw plan.

Cheers!
 

David Young

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Here’s the last one I did
 

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David Young

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You got some video of that thing? I'm assuming you cut the squish band and dropped the jug to get that much compression.

Yes it was cut and dropped this is a 44mm jug. This was with 95 vp it ran better with full chisel chain. A bunch of guys took it for a spin at the Connecticut gtg. I compared with josh barretts modded 254 it was real close in power.
 

5155

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This topic dragged me away from Lurkerville. I have a couple of these, one giving me a fit. The talk of the impulse hole not lining up is something I need to check. If the 10 dollar piston Pogo spoke of was still available I'd try one. Thanks to you that pass this on.

Thanks for having me.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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I think those pistons were probably already gone by the time I hit the 'enter' button to post that they were even available. Who knows what they meant by 'limited quantity' but they sure didn't last long. And let's not forget there are lots of 028 Supers out there needing pistons, too. LOL

FWIW, they have a Hyway version for $21 and still showing a Meteor at $30. Not sure what that's about. I have a Tecomec I bought some time ago when they were going for $9.99 too. It's just waiting for me to get inspired with a 55 I have on the shelf. One o' these days...
 
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5155

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Old topic, great references. On page one. 6th and 7th picture of carb.
Some of mine have that plastic around the hi lo jets,
some not. Perhaps epa thing.

? Can that be removed by pulling it straight away with vice grips? Anyone?

The one I'm working on had studs for the carb mount that failed, is why I'm in there. New partition (spelling).
 

wcorey

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Old topic, great references. On page one. 6th and 7th picture of carb.
Some of mine have that plastic around the hi lo jets,
some not. Perhaps epa thing.

? Can that be removed by pulling it straight away with vice grips? Anyone?

The one I'm working on had studs for the carb mount that failed, is why I'm in there. New partition (spelling).


It's held on/down/captured by the needle springs, unscrew both needles and it comes off with them.
 

5155

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Thanks for quick reply.
Going to leave it alone, for now.
Glad I didn't try fixing it til broke.
 

mettee

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Anyone have a stocker 50 rancher that can show me the oil pump. My thread isn't getting any love and I'm trying to find out what the parts that are there look like stock.
 

mettee

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This is what I'm concerned about. The one I'm working on is consuming all the oil quickly.

Part 501 77 24-01

Screenshot_20220924-111013_Chrome.jpg
 
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