High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Husqvarna 346xp bearings

idiotwithasaw

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I have a 346 that the bearings are needing to be changed. I was looking through ipls and eBay and can't make heads or tails of it. Is the clutch side oem only with the seal in the bearing stihl style, or a standard 6202 with the seal seating in the case? Thanks guys.
 

idiotwithasaw

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So there is no aftermarket alternatives. Oem only.

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Tor R

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So there is no aftermarket alternatives. Oem only.
you can check the price from your SKF dealer when it come to Explorer 6202/C3VG104, if he is a decent dealer he will be able to get that one, price different is around 2$ more for the VG104. 6202/C3VG104 cost 1/2 compared to OEM bearing in Norway.

The BB1 3023 maybe more tricky, and I am not sure if the seal quality is equal Husky. If I had many 346 projects I would for sure checked up if SKF sell BB1 3023, they are pricey from Husky.

Some SKF dealers are really lousy, they only want to sell volume bearings like 6203/C3, they dont want to take in the Explorer before they have sold out their old stock,and you can forget VG104. They just dont want to spend time on you, easy choice, contact another dealer :)

Good luck
 

MG2186

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The BB1 3023 is made only for Husqvarna by SKF and can only be bought through Husqvarna is what SKF told me


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idiotwithasaw

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Well crud. What about seals if the bearings are ok. Can I change the clutch seal no problem

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MG2186

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Yea that ones easy to do


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idiotwithasaw

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Good to know. I need to look at what I got a little closer

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Tor R

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I am not sure BB1 3023 is made exlusive for Husky, if it was it wouldnt be possible to get so many hits on google.

We thought the same about PTO bearing for Husky 44/444/133/234/238/42/242/246, slacker 543301, exlusive for Husky, but that wasnt the case, it's possible to buy them through slacker but they are bloody expensive, we are speaking about 100€ for one bearing instead of 40$.
Sometimes OEM are cheaper lol

Seals are easy to change on 346, i find the clutch seal to be the easy ones :)
 

MG2186

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You change the seal that's in the bearing? I didn't have much luck with that


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MG2186

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You can buy a sealed 6202 bearing but it's not sealed like the one used in the saw so not sure if it would work, I didn't want to chance it leaking so I just got the OE one


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MG2186

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Yes, that is what SKF told me also


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Tor R

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You can buy a sealed 6202 bearing but it's not sealed like the one used in the saw so not sure if it would work, I didn't want to chance it leaking so I just got the OE one


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i would never put a 6202 bearing on the clutch side, not as long we can buy the proper bearing.

A bit of tophic, 242 who have NLA bearing is something else, the day we can't get that special bearing we have to improvise, in that case I would use 6201, make a spacer to hold a seal, lock it like 266 have and modd the oil pump so I get the needed space.

But I dont hope 346 get so complicated lol
 

Red97

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A good quality 6202 c3 for the flywheel side. You can get them shielded/sealed cheaper than open most of the time. Just remove the seals and flush the grease with mix before installing.

The clutch side as mentioned is a husky only thing 30-40$. More than likely if that seal is bad, it was caused by the bearing starting to go. The seal alone is $10+the time to install it without messing it up.

If I split the cases new bearings and seals are just cheap insurance.
 

idiotwithasaw

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Ok so called my dealer prices are as follows

$15 flywheel bearing
$4 flywheel seal
$30 clutch bearing w/seal installed

$8 clutch side seal only.
So $50 plus tax to go all oem. $40 if you use aftermarket flywheel bearing.

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Genius

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I believe that is the same style bearing and seal that is on the 385/390 is that correct?

I just finished attempting to change that seal on a 390 and failed twice at a almost $20 seal. I called Randy and he mentioned what he does is wraps a piece of 35mm camera film around the inner race of the bearing and then slides the seal on. I did not have any luck with that method. I ended up splitting the case and replacing the whole bearing and seal combo.

I am curious on any other tips on getting these seals installed.
 

RedFir Down

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I believe that is the same style bearing and seal that is on the 385/390 is that correct?

I just finished attempting to change that seal on a 390 and failed twice at a almost $20 seal. I called Randy and he mentioned what he does is wraps a piece of 35mm camera film around the inner race of the bearing and then slides the seal on. I did not have any luck with that method. I ended up splitting the case and replacing the whole bearing and seal combo.

I am curious on any other tips on getting these seals installed.
Funny you mention this... I was just looking into this the other day. according to Husqvarna it takes a seal installation tool, part #502 52 21-01. I seen them online for around $18.
It shows it here in there woodshop manual. Click on the first link. https://www.google.com/#q=husqvarna+385xp+workshop+manual
 

Genius

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Funny you mention this... I was just looking into this the other day. according to Husqvarna it takes a seal installation tool, part #502 52 21-01. I seen them online for around $18.
It shows it here in there woodshop manual. Click on the first link. https://www.google.com/#q=husqvarna+385xp+workshop+manual

I am on my phone now, maybe I missed something when I was reading the manual in the shop.
But, I was only able to find reference to a seal installing tool for the flywheel side.


I know a lot of the husky saws are using this style bearing and seal combo on the clutch side. If there is a tool available to help with the installation I will be ordering them.
 

RedFir Down

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But, I was only able to find reference to a seal installing tool for the flywheel side.
You very well could be right. I do remember seeing an illustration with that drift tool over the clutch side seal though.
When I get a minute I'll have to pull that up again.
 
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