High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

SOLD Husqvarna 288xp $400.00

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dustinwilt68

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Built this saw from a set of 281 cases, has a Meteor P&C in it, I have put a new OEM clutch cover, top cover as well as some other small parts, carburetor has just been rebuilt as well, I have been cutting with it the last couple days and it is a beast. I had to tap the top cover hole to a 6mm bolt and I used an insert as it was stripped out, the other 2 holes were ok. This was a running 281, but it wasn't pretty. All the AV mounts are good and the trigger has been rebuilt as well. $500.00 plus shipping.
 

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chipper1

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That's just mean Dustin as you know mine just flew.
You'll pay for this one :p.
GLWS buddy.
 

dustinwilt68

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Don't worry Brett, I have 1 more to build, but it may take a while to gather parts, I only have a set of cases, crank, carburetor, tank and a P&C. The small stuff really adds up to build a nice one.
 

dustinwilt68

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The insert didn't hold the way I would have liked so I am lowering the price to reflect this. 2 mounting points for the top cover are good, 1 is not. $400.00 plus shipping
 

Mastermind

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Thought about this all night at work and I finally have a solution to the problem that I know will work, now I just need to get the materials, I was over thinking it, price still remains the same $400, I am good to my word.

What did you come up with Dustin?
 

dustinwilt68

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Going to build a bridge, small piece of metal with a 5mm nut welded in the center over a hole, then 2 more holes drilled 1 on each side, drill a hole to either side of the stripped out hole and counter sink the heads into the case and bolt the bridge down with lock nuts, jb weld around the new center nut to finish it off. What you guys think?
 

Mastermind

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Going to build a bridge, small piece of metal with a 5mm nut welded in the center over a hole, then 2 more holes drilled 1 on each side, drill a hole to either side of the stripped out hole and counter sink the heads into the case and bolt the bridge down with lock nuts, jb weld around the new center nut to finish it off. What you guys think?

Seems like a lot going on in a small area. Did the threads not hold up for your insert, or did it just loosen up?
 

Stump Shot

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Going to build a bridge, small piece of metal with a 5mm nut welded in the center over a hole, then 2 more holes drilled 1 on each side, drill a hole to either side of the stripped out hole and counter sink the heads into the case and bolt the bridge down with lock nuts, jb weld around the new center nut to finish it off. What you guys think?


Seems like a lot going on in a small area. Did the threads not hold up for your insert, or did it just loosen up?


I've one that is wallered out way too big even for an insert. I'm guessing that is what is going on here by the picture. I'll give you my fix for what it is worth. A small diamond burr was employed to clean out and make places at the bottom of the hole larger than the top. Used Marine grade epoxy(MarineTex) and filled the hole completely and let set for a day. Grind/sand top flush with surrounding metal, mark center of hole with top cover. Drill out for thread insert and install with loctite. The key to this whole ordeal is the Marine epoxy, I would not try this with a regular grade of epoxy. This worked for me, it's just one way, surely there are a dozen others. Let us know what worked for you. SS
 

dustinwilt68

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Well I am trying your idea stump shot, just woke up and figured I would try to epoxy in a new insert,luckily I had the material here from boat repairs. The hole was to big for a regular helicoil, the wood screw they had in there was way to large, but the course threads may actually help in holding the epoxy in place.
 

Marshy

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Still available? Can you post a pic of the fix? If you haven't fix it yet Im still interested but a pic of the back side of that stripped hole would still be appreciate.
 
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