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HELP! Husky 55 Cylinder Decomp. Valve Assembly

Mooselegs

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Could anyone let me know if there is any real Difference Between an OEM Decomp. Valve Assembly for a Husky Model 55 (1991 Year) c/w: 46mm Cylinder Assembly & an Aftermarket one? Also, I have read quite a Bit these Decomp. Valve Assemblies are Not that Great so if not, What is Required to Plug the Threaded Hole in the Jug/Cylinder Thread Wise and is there a Copper Squish Ring/Seal Required?
 

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Could anyone let me know if there is any real Difference Between an OEM Decomp. Valve Assembly for a Husky Model 55 (1991 Year) c/w: 46mm Cylinder Assembly & an Aftermarket one? Also, I have read quite a Bit these Decomp. Valve Assemblies are Not that Great so if not, What is Required to Plug the Threaded Hole in the Jug/Cylinder Thread Wise and is there a Copper Squish Ring/Seal Required?
Plugs are available all over. I get them on ebay.
 

hacskaroly

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ammoaddict

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I( have a 55 with no decomp it has a place for it but it is not drilled thru nor threaded.
I wish it had the decomp, it's got 180 lbs comp. and it pulls hard.
I have one too. I've thought about threading it but haven't. It's hard on me to start it. I have a bad wrist.
 

Boogerblaster

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I( have a 55 with no decomp it has a place for it but it is not drilled thru nor threaded.
I wish it had the decomp, it's got 180 lbs comp. and it pulls hard.
I'm a machinist and any job shop should be able to install a decompression valve for you. They will need the valve at the time of drilling and tapping so they'll know how deep to tap the threads.
 

Huskyvarnya Saws

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I'm a machinist and any job shop should be able to install a decompression valve for you. They will need the valve at the time of drilling and tapping so they'll know how deep to tap the threads.
I recently built a 288 with no decomp that is a bear to pull over. I was wondering if anyone had ever had one tapped by a machine shop. The cylinder casting has a spot for one, it just isn't tapped.
 

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I'm a machinist and any job shop should be able to install a decompression valve for you. They will need the valve at the time of drilling and tapping so they'll know how deep to tap the threads.
Yeah. I could drill & tap it myself, I have valves.
I took this saw on trade, I really don't need it. I am 84 years of ancientness and have plenty of easyer starting saws.
 

old guy

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Yeah. I could drill & tap it myself, I have valves.
I took this saw on trade, I really don't need it. I am 84 years of ancientness and have plenty of easyer starting saws.
I recently built a 288 with no decomp that is a bear to pull over. I was wondering if anyone had ever had one tapped by a machine shop. The cylinder casting has a spot for one, it just isn't tapped.
I had a like new 281 with no place for decomp, that was too much, it had to go to younger person.
 

Huskyvarnya Saws

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I had a like new 281 with no place for decomp, that was too much, it had to go to younger person.
This is the first saw I have encountered that I couldn't drop start with relative ease. If my boot would fit though the handle, starting it from the ground would be more manageable. But since I can't fully secure it with most of my weight, that is a major pain in the ass as well. Which is why I'm going to see about getting the cylinder tapped for a decomp. It would just make using the saw a much better experience as it runs and cuts great.

I had the bright idea of deleting the base gasket when I built the saw. In hindsight, that was mistake, although I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make. The squish was around .0025 if I remember correctly.
 

hacskaroly

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If my boot would fit though the handle
My foot generally does not fit in the handle either, I have adapted to putting my heal on the handle base plate instead when I can't drop start the saw. I can securely hold the saw in place that way.
 

Huskyvarnya Saws

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My foot generally does not fit in the handle either, I have adapted to putting my heal on the handle base plate instead when I can't drop start the saw. I can securely hold the saw in place that way.
I appreciate the suggestion, I'll have to try that! When the saw is hot I can drop start it, but that cold start is brutal.
 

KellyJackson

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Could anyone let me know if there is any real Difference Between an OEM Decomp. Valve Assembly for a Husky Model 55 (1991 Year) c/w: 46mm Cylinder Assembly & an Aftermarket one? Also, I have read quite a Bit these Decomp. Valve Assemblies are Not that Great so if not, What is Required to Plug the Threaded Hole in the Jug/Cylinder Thread Wise and is there a Copper Squish Ring/Seal Required?
I Realize that there are AM Decompression Valve Assemblies however my Original Cylinder didn't have a Decompression Valve or Hole for one in the Cylinder Head. As I Purchased a New Aftermarket Cylinder and Piston Assembly the New Cylinder Head came with a Threaded Decompression Valve Hole/Port and if there is an OEM Part # for the Correct Decompression Valve Assembly this Information would be Appreciated so that I have some back Up Information when Ordering this Valve Assembly complete with Sealing Washer or Ring. Also, I would like to have a Threaded Plug & Seal so if someone could tell me the Appropriate Plug (Bolt) Size, Bolt Thread & Pitch this would also be Appreciated.
 
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