Homelite

[Farmchuck]

The little S clip won't do any good on these saws, the loops in it are for the bar studs to go through and take up space on a bar that's too big for the studs.

Correct or the projection is worn off from use through the years. Mine was missing altogether, The projection uses the cutout on the original bar to grab and move it along. Mine was using a new bar that had nothing except the end of the bar's stud slot. Surprisingly, that slot was just short enough to work with the part I fabricated in the shop. You just have to be sure that the projection protrudes out no further than the thickness of the bar.

I took the little square thing off & it appeared to be in correctly, the other side is rounded & wouldn’t fit in the bar. One thing I did notice was that the chain tension adjustment screw moves back & forth loosely in the saw housing

 

[Farmchuck]

I’ve also noticed the square in the new bar is larger than the one in the old bar. I could be getting play from that as well. It is supposedly the correct bar but perhaps not.

 

[Farmchuck]

 

[Burchie70]

Yes I the the new bar looks like it’s the problem. My saw is the exact same set up as yours. The chain tensioner does slide back and forth in the groove on mine also. I’ll take a picture of mine tomorrow and post it. Also the hose that goes in the top hole of your oil tank should have a check valve and a duckbill in the end of it. The hose should just stick inside the tank so that it’s not hanging in the oil. The check valve is porous so it releases pressure and doesn’t drain the oil tank. I’ll take a picture of that also.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Correct or the projection is worn off from use through the years. Mine was missing altogether, The projection uses the cutout on the original bar to grab and move it along. Mine was using a new bar that had nothing except the end of the bar's stud slot. Surprisingly, that slot was just short enough to work with the part I fabricated in the shop. You just have to be sure that the projection protrudes out no further than the thickness of the bar.

I think I've used those things in the past from the old Poulan chainsaws like the 2000 or the SD25. I may have used the bolt also, not sure.

 

[Burchie70]

Farmchuck this is what I have.

 

[Farmchuck]

Farmchuck this is what I have. View attachment 237254View attachment 237255View attachment 237256View attachment 237257View attachment 237258

Thank you. Does your adjuster screw pictured in your 3rd & 4th photo move loosely in the saw. Mine does. It will slide back and forth between the screw head & the little square thing depending on where it’s at. Thanks again.

 

[Farmchuck]

Farmchuck this is what I have. View attachment 237254View attachment 237255View attachment 237256View attachment 237257View attachment 237258

This is what my oil tank looks like:

 

[Wood Doctor]

Try using a tight split washer or a short length of fuel line to keep that adjusting screw from coming out. It must rotate with the screw but not move horizontally with the head.

 

[Farmchuck]

Try using a tight split washer or a short length of fuel line to keep that adjusting screw from coming out. These must rotate with the screw but do not move horizontally with the head.

Mine definitely moves horizontally with the screw back & forth depending how far depends on where the square thing is on the screw.I appreciate your idea but I’m not sure what you mean when you’re saying use a tight split washer or piece of fuel line. Do you mean put it on the screw threads in that slot where the square thing slides horizontally? Thank you.

 

[Burchie70]

Yes my tensioner sides back and forth easily. Could the screw that goes through the square tensioner block be stripped? Hard to tell from the picture of your oil tank but I would put a new duck bill on the top line and see if that helps.

 

[Farmchuck]

Yes my tensioner sides back and forth easily. Could the screw that goes through the square tensioner block be stripped? Hard to tell from the picture of your oil tank but I would put a new duck bill on the top line and see if that helps.

This could help with the excess smoking? The screw is not stripped. Thank you so much for taking time to respond.

 

[Burchie70]

The duck bill and check valve in the end of the oil line is to stop the oil from back flowing into the crankcase. That line is what pressurizes the oil tank to force the oil out the other line to the pump.

 

[Burchie70]

The duck bill part number is 69451 and you can use an aftermarket one. They work the same, I got 5 duck bills for $12 on eBay. The oem check valve is part number 69659 but they are expensive. I used part number A07508 which does the same thing. Let me think about your chain tensioner for a bit, it’s got me stumped

 

[Wood Doctor]

Mine definitely moves horizontally with the screw back & forth depending how far depends on where the square thing is on the screw.I appreciate your idea but I’m not sure what you mean when you’re saying use a tight split washer or piece of fuel line. Do you mean put it on the screw threads in that slot where the square thing slides horizontally? Thank you.

Yes. The spllt washer idea is to make a small snap ring that fits tight and won't slide. A 1/8" nipple of fuel line that threads on tight also works. Both of these should rotate with the head of the screw but not move laterally once in place. Thus the machine screw will be retained and not slide out forward.