Help with 2511T that won’t start.

[Paul Lloyd-Jones]

So, I have an Echo CS2511T that won’t start. I’d love some help diagnosing it.
The saw has spark. (Checked with the little in-line circuit tester tool.)
But it won’t burp at all, unless I dribble some fuel right into the intake.
It seems like the carburetor is getting fuel. It pulls fuel into the primer bulb just fine. I’ve now tried replacing the spark plug, air filter, and carburetor and the short fuel line to the carburetor. No change.
I don’t own a compression gauge.
Please help since I’m obviously clueless.
Thanks!

 

[Ketchup]

Sounds like you’re part of the way into it.

If it kicks on prime but nothing else it’s either fuel delivery, a major air leak, or the cylinder is scored. Take off the muffler and shine a light in the exhaust port. Gray streaks on the piston or cylinder walls indicate a serious problem. At that point a pressure/vacuum test is highly advised.

 

[Paul Lloyd-Jones]

Thanks!
It won’t kick at all if I just prime it, only when I drip fuel into the intake. Is that what you mean? Does that make any difference?
I’ll look at the cylinder. I guess it is probably relevant that when I first got into it, the outer half of the air filter was missing. (The crew never mentioned it as far as I remember, so I don’t know how long it was being run that way.)

 

[EFSM]

Check the intake boot. Always one of the first things on a top handle saw, especially if well used.

 

[Ketchup]

Sorry, yes. “Starts on prime” usually means it will pop if you dribble some fuel through the carb. But on a saw with a primer bulb that is confusing. If it was run without a filter you may be in for a new block. Luckily they’re cheap and easy to replace.

You may not see much from the exhaust side because the port makes a 90 degree bend. Pull the carb and look at the piston on the intake side as well.

 

[Czed]

Hold the throttle wide open while pulling it
That'll show if the metering lever is stuck.

 

[Paul Lloyd-Jones]

Yep. Intake boot was shot. I think the piston looks okay. Not sure if you guys can tell anything from the pictures.
I opted not to take the muffler off because I remembered that one of the mounting holes that is part of the block had broken off at some point, and I JB welded it back on to remount the muffler. That repair has held up so far, but I didn’t want to mess with it if I didn’t have to.

 

[Paul Lloyd-Jones]

Hold the throttle wide open while pulling it
That'll show if the metering lever is stuck.

Didn’t see this till just now. I’ve put it away for the day. I don’t know what the metering lever is/does, but I assume you were talking about holding the throttle while watching the piston move?

 

[Czed]

Didn’t see this till just now. I’ve put it away for the day. I don’t know what the metering lever is/does, but I assume you were talking about holding the throttle while watching the piston move?

Try to start it

 

[EFSM]

Try to start it

I'm not sure that I follow. You're saying it will more easily unflood itself?

 

[Czed]

I'm not sure that I follow. You're saying it will more easily unflood itself?

Yes if it starts while holding it open that tells you it's a carb issue the lever that allows fuel through is stuck open.

 

[EFSM]

Yes. Or bad primer bulb check valve, if applicable.

 

[Ketchup]

The boot should be the problem. They are often torn by people trying to jerk out a pinched bar. The AV springs and mounts may be damaged as well.