Expert input on splitter build

[weesa20]

Hey Guys. I am looking into building a splitter from some parts I already have. Planning on a 24" in stroke.

What I have:
wedges
17.5 g/min pump
axle/tank- 5.5 gallons
multiple single spool valves
frame for the beam to sit on
Filter and mount

I am looking to build a wedge on beam machine. I have a twisted I-beam that came off a wedge-on-cylinder splitter that I think I can replace the I-beam and convert to wedge-on-beam.

Thinking about a HF predator motor- any benefit to move up to a 13 hp from the 9.5 hp that is typically used with this setup? Not sure I gain anything since I am limited by the pump I already have and would give up fuel efficiency.

Planning to use a 4.5x1.75x24 max 3000 psi cylinder, which is what was on the original machine. Any reason to change?

I would like to add an auto-cycle valve. Anything special needed there?

Dump valve? Any benefit with this setup?

5 gal auxillary hydro tank- 5.5 gallons is no where near enough, so I will need to add another tank...so I would just have fluid return to the aux tank and then gravity feed into the primary tank...sound ok?

Would like to add log lift and adjustable wedge in the future.

Thanks for any input/guidance.

W

 

[Al Smith]

Personally from my perspective I think a true auto cycle is dangerous and a good way to delimb yourself or at least prune off a few fingers A pressure detent on return is about the standard valve set up .
I prefer a tilt up versus a straight horizontal but it's a matter of preference .With a tilt up you can split big rounds or lay it flat and do little rounds .With a straight horizontal you either need a log lift or a skid loader or be strong a bull to lift 300 pound oak rounds .Then if you don't have an apron on it worry about 150 pounds of that rolling off and breaking your foot which would not be good .
As far as the tanks you can tie them together and they should work .
With regards to heat on the oil a 4.5 inch will have an edge over a 4 because the pressure won't build up as high to do the same amount of work . I have a 5" with a 16 GPM pump and an 11 Hp Briggs and it runs fairly cool.My buds with a 4" and an 8 HP and 13 GPM runs hot .It's a little faster than mine but I only run mine at about 2/3 throttle his is right up on the gov max .Like anything there's several ways to skin the same cat .

 

[bigbadbob]

I have a 15 gallon tank on a 22gpm 24x5 GX390 it gets quite warm to the touch splitting about 2 cord of fir. With 2 persons working.

 

[weesa20]

Thanks for the replies.

I guess I should have mentioned that I also have a wallenstein wp835 with autocycle so am familiar with the operation. Granted, my hands are a little farther away, so I will give it some thought. I only work solo.

I also have another vertical/horizontal splitter and two tractors with front end loaders-forks that will pickup anything I would want to split.

Anyone know if two single detent valves can be setup so that one will extent the ram and then disengage and then the operator could use the other lever to auto retract the ram? I know the operator would have to engage the retract valve after the extend valve had completed, if that makes sense. Maybe a little safer than the straight auto cycle valve.

Or maybe a 3 position valve- auto extend, neutral, auto retract?

I Can buy the 9.5 hp Kohler for $400 plus shipping or the 13hp predator for $350 or so...also a new 22hp predator for sale locally that is intriguing for future upgrade options.

W

 

[blades]

there is an auto return valve on the market runs around $400 Us company but at the moment old brain can't connect the dots. Heat- Use High Flow fittings 45deg ones for corners not 90deg units I use a valve with 3/4" ports ( your cylinder is 1/2' ports so a couple reducers in the mix but again high flow)) and 3/4" hoses . A lot of commercially sold box store stuff has a hard line on them. It is 1/2" od about 3/8" id = a lot of friction = heat. if you want to add a lift then a power beyond valve is needed. That will need to be step down with a restrictor or risk launching a round through you neighbors roof - simple to make your own Braze or weld shut end of fitting drill 1/8" hole apx.. Personally I prefer a thin wedge with a spreader behind it- slices through knots and twisted grain rather than applying brute force. Saves twisted and bent beams, pusher should be as tall as as the biggest round normally encountered with plenty of re-enforcement - sliding plate as long as pusher is tall - just think about the leverage of a big round on the top edge of the push plate- hence what I wrote. if using a I or W beam you want to box that in along the sides on the business end to re-enforce same and on the end. I used twin 4x6" schedule 40 tubes for my last beam welded together all around. Haven't manged to destroy it yet ( yep I bent up a standard configuration beam once or twice before and push plates and foot plates) hopr this is of some help. Chris

 

[weesa20]

Ordered engine today- a Kohler Command Pro CH440- 14hp unit.

working on the hydraulics- thinking about this double detent valve: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...ector-Valve-w-Detent-SAE-10-Ports-9-12295.axd

Is it possible to get this functionality out of 2 single detent open center valves?

Thanks

W

 

[weesa20]

That was quick...

Either have everything else already or have it ordered except the hydraulic lines since I want to have everything mounted first.

Now I need a good welder in NC...

W

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

If you can mount the log splitter on a dump trailer. Having flipped a log splitter over while going around a corner, I can tell you it is no fun.

The beauty about a dump trailer is it means you only handle it once, especially if you sell it. The trailer provides a good base for the log lifter you talked about.

Only in Georgia have I seen this, but, people mount log splitters (they drop to vertical from the truck bed) on the back of pick up trucks. Must work well with a dump trailer and certainly allows you to bring it places you normally could not bring many splitters.

 

[Cjone]

Prince offers a full auto cycle valve. But as was stated please do not do this. Auto return is nice but please have the advance stop when letting go of the handle. Position the handle where you can operate it and still control the round while splitting. Safest way I have built them. The last couple I did not even do a auto return. But they were fast. Just under 7 seconds both ways. 4 seconds out and less then 3 back. 28 gpm pump and a 4" bore cyl with a 2" rod operating at just over 3000 psi. Cj