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@Cat 525
This guy should be able to help you with this question. He does alot of this style bore cutting/felling. He may not be on here till tomorrow. He's still a working man.
 

Loony661

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I’ll chime in: I typically make my cuts as level as possible. This has always provided me with the most control of the direction of felling, and also been more predictable. As always though, there is never a set rule since every tree is different and there are always variables.. Use your discretion.

I am typically cutting hardwoods in the upper midwest, specifically MN and WI. White, Red, Burr, and Black Oaks, Shagbark Hickory, Hard Maple, and Ash, etc.

If any of the older loggers have another technique, I’d love to learn about it as well.
 

chiselbit

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Around here we try to make the cut so the log is square. Straight up tree the cut is level. Tree grows off at an angle the cut will be angled so the butt is square, if it’s feasible to do so. Majority of the time I try to stay level.
 

chiselbit

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I was thinking about the above post, I only try to cut the hard leaning trees square if I can drop them with the lean, if they need to be pulled or wedged/jacked away from the lean I cut level and preferably the back cut will be a little higher than the face
 

davidwyby

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It’s good to keep your back or wedging cuts 90° to the trunk/grain.


I did an experiment the other day and made a cut into a big green Euc log about 20° angled. Pounded 4 wedges in and it started to split off/out. Not what you want when felling.

 
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