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Dirko is not fuel resistant

Ford3000

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That's why they make Motoseal.
In what way is Motoseal different, I genuinely do not know,
nor have I any experience with what works best or not.
Only asking to learn.
 

Stump Shot

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But was the fuel back then the same as today's gunk, I doubt it.
Did carbs not have their internal coatings melted off with the advent
of corn oil fuels, until the manufacturers updated their coatings, different times now.

Well, with the plethora of survivor saws out there still running to today, it doesn't seem to matter to the sealant. Everything else can survive if we take care of it properly like we all know now how to.
 

Ford3000

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Well, with the plethora of survivor saws out there still running to today, it doesn't seem to matter to the sealant. Everything else can survive if we take care of it properly like we all know now how to.
Am going to give it another 40 years, then have a poll to see whose Dirko survived, I might start testing with some in a bottle of Gas, keep it down the wine cellar for safe keeping.:risas3:
 

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Am going to give it another 40 years, then have a poll to see whose Dirko survived, I might start testing with some in a bottle of Gas, keep it down the wine cellar for safe keeping.:risas3:

No need to, @tree monkey has and continues to use Dirko from the start of time itself.
 

00wyk

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But fuel flows through the case continuously when the saw is running,
and only Two or Three percent of the volume is oil, so much more fuel is present while running.

But yes, Stihl use it, so it must be good enough, or maybe that's why so many clam shells develop leaks and burn up.

The fuel doesn't coat the inside of the chainsaw motor, only the oil coats it. If the fuel removed the oil every time it went in to the chainsaw, they would fail rather quickly. Just lean out your mix and find out how long it lasts...

I mean, you guys did see the demo the OP posted, right? If the fuel was able to reach the sealant, it wouldn't last a day of work. So what's actually goin on?
 

Wonkydonkey

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Given that the clamshell should be spotlessly clean when done up. There is very little surface area for the fuel to react with the sealant.

however when the mating surfaces are not spotlessly clean, i guess it’s bad news in the long run.

when guys here put a clamshells back together, do they (you) clean with break cleaner or something first.
Not that I do many clamshells, I like to use a bit of 80grit on the mating surfaces before I clean with actone. Then there’s a bit more for the sealant to adhere to
 

Ford3000

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The fuel doesn't coat the inside of the chainsaw motor, only the oil coats it. If the fuel removed the oil every time it went in to the chainsaw, they would fail rather quickly. Just lean out your mix and find out how long it lasts...

I mean, you guys did see the demo the OP posted, right? If the fuel was able to reach the sealant, it wouldn't last a day of work. So what's actually goin on?
True, there does not seem to be any evidence of Dirko failing, so other than the post showing it is not fuel resistant, what indeed is there to worry about.
 

davidwyby

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I just BGD’d a saw someone left red stuff all over in. The stuff inside the cylinder area was soft and wiped off but not gone. The stuff outside was set up firm. All Motoseal now.
 

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I agree. Folks make way too big of a deal out of gasoline resistance
Yes sir. My biggest problem here in interior Alaska, is I need a sealant that will stay pliable at 30 below zero. That happens to be permatex right stuff. Ive built 5 ported saws with it, no problems. It's rated to 65 below zero.

Probably not the greatest resistance to gas, but the adhesion is very good. I even repaired a torn felt gasket on an echo cs 530 walbro carburetor. That was supposed to be temporary last March. Coming up on one year later, the saw still works great.
 

Maintenance Chief

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When I moved I couldn't find my Yamabond, but I found my sealant for 3rd members and gear boxes. I've used it on a couple of builds. It's pretty tough stuff and I haven't had any problems so far.
 

davidwyby

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Yes sir. My biggest problem here in interior Alaska, is I need a sealant that will stay pliable at 30 below zero. That happens to be permatex right stuff. Ive built 5 ported saws with it, no problems. It's rated to 65 below zero.

Probably not the greatest resistance to gas, but the adhesion is very good. I even repaired a torn felt gasket on an echo cs 530 walbro carburetor. That was supposed to be temporary last March. Coming up on one year later, the saw still works great.
Right Stuff is crazy. I’d be afraid I’d never get the cyl off a saw. AMC 258 straight six in my ‘81 CJ-7 years ago…valve covers are notorious for leaking. I put it on with right stuff and couldn’t get it off. I put eye bolts in it and hooked the hoist to it. Pretty sure I got the front tires off the ground before it came loose.
 

Maintenance Chief

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Right Stuff is crazy. I’d be afraid I’d never get the cyl off a saw. AMC 258 straight six in my ‘81 CJ-7 years ago…valve covers are notorious for leaking. I put it on with right stuff and couldn’t get it off. I put eye bolts in it and hooked the hoist to it. Pretty sure I got the front tires off the ground before it came loose.
I have never taken apart anything put together with right stuff, for good reason ! Lol
 

mainer_in_ak

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Right Stuff is crazy. I’d be afraid I’d never get the cyl off a saw. AMC 258 straight six in my ‘81 CJ-7 years ago…valve covers are notorious for leaking. I put it on with right stuff and couldn’t get it off. I put eye bolts in it and hooked the hoist to it. Pretty sure I got the front tires off the ground before it came loose.
Wow David, great story. Yep, I have mentioned right stuff coupla times here. Good to hear other's experiences, of the insane adhesion from this stuff. I would honestly claim it to be an adhesive sealant, even though it's not marketed as one.
 
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