Those are great points Angelo, I do like that the Stihl hardware fasteners are generally all the same size torx. I don't carry a torx with me in the field, but if I had a Stihl I would. The flip side is anything field serviceable on the Husky I can do/undo with a scrench/screw driver. If I'm diving in to R&R the top end I consider that a shop job, and then all my tools are at hand so I don't care if I have to use a screw driver on the plastics, a 4mm allen on the muffler bolts, and a 5mm allen on the jug. At least that's all there is to R&R a jug on a Husky.
Also, I like that the Stihl fasteners have the toothed serrations on the underside of the cap-head screws. Its a nice touch and it certainly seems to help keep the fasteners locked down under vibration (and boy can those Stihls vibrate, what with rubber dampers instead of isolating spring AV). But as most people mentioned, a little blue loctite and some wrist strength has kept me from losing any Husky hardware so far.
I have read anecdotally that threads on Huskys are more likely to strip than on Stihl, but are we comparing pro-saws to pro-saws? Because both have threaded holes into magnesium cases, not plastic cases. I guess I just don't have the ham fists to worry about it?? Even when Matt uses a power screw driver to disassemble a saw, he was careful to point out that you should turn the toque down when reassembling. I haven't needed to over-tighten any screws to the point that they strip (see blue loctite solution), so I guess I've just been lucky (knock on wood).
As for medicat and IPLs, Stihl actually made it difficult for end-users to get access to that kind of information. I mean, it was a dealer-only software package, so any copy that you have is illegally obtained, and installed through bypassing security by rolling back your date clock. Further, Stihl now uses partsmart software that dealers have to pay for and are DEFINITELY not going to be sharing or giving away. Which means that now all your IPL software is out of date and no longer supported for parts that are superseded to new numbers. Husqvarna and several online vendors will show you all new parts numbers if you search for an old part, and you can order right from the web from several sources and compare prices, without having to find out the local dealer needs to special order something and then you have to drive out and pick it up. But who's to say which is a better system; if you like working on your own saw and need parts maybe you don't like hunting down parts on the internet... Some people like making phone calls to just say "I have a Stihl XYZ and I need a new carb kit" and someone else does the leg work to make sure the correct item (hopefully) is ordered for you. That is what the Stihl support network is all about.
Regarding repair manuals, there are many Husky service manuals available. I have all the ones for my saws, but
here is a very thorough thread on some of them on this site. http://opeforum.com/threads/husqvarna-workshop-manuals.997/
As for service manuals, after looking through them there really isn't that much that you need them for. I mean, do you really need the torque spec for the cylinder bolts in inch-pounds, or do you just tighten them down güd-n-tite? Sure, they tell you how to disassemble a saw, or to check wiring on the heated handle bits, how to troubleshoot common problems, and how to tune a carb, but most of that is common sense or experience based learning that you can apply to any saw. I don't think most auto mechanics require a workshop manual for your specific car if you bring it in for service, and I would guess that if you know two-stroke engines you can find your way around a chainsaw.
I'm just spit-ballin' here. I think both are great saw manufacturers. The Stihl guys love to hate on Husqvarna, and the Husqvarna crowd just has to defend itself against all these allegations that they are inferior.
