HELP! CS-590 base gasket delete

[STOVE]

Hello all, I am considering some additional modifications to my cs-590. I use this saw for bucking wood I come across for firewood, Storm cleanup, clearing. No commercial use.

So far I have modded the muffler, removed the limiter caps and tuned, replace the nozzle in the carb with the bypass hole.

Next on the list was plugging the decomp and base gasket delete.

I have tried to check the squish but I cannot seem to get it. Not sure it it’s that large or I am too dense to pull it off.

If I lose the base gasket do I also have to do a timing advance? Or do I just retune the carb and it’s done? Am I going to see any real world difference?

 

[mainer_in_ak]

I run a 590 configured exactly how you describe. It's a torque monster.

Yep do an ignition advance. On the base gasket delete, you wont need to check the squish. Echo saws are generous on the squish. After the base gasket delete, the 590 will be in the 170 psi territory.

On the ignition advance, only take .015 off the flywheel the key. Any more and they cackle on throttle-up and can be difficult to tune the low speed jet.

Pay attention to that cackle and richen up the low jet if you hear it.

13,100 rpms is where the saw will want to be. She'll take a few cuts to warm up before you see 13k rpms.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Yeh, one size solder doesn't fit all. I've got two or three different gauges but you can also twist two of what you have together.

 

[STOVE]

I run a 590 configured exactly how you describe. It's a torque monster.

Yep do an ignition advance. On the base gasket delete, you wont need to check the squish. Echo saws are generous on the squish. After the base gasket delete, the 590 will be in the 170 psi territory.

On the ignition advance, only take .015 off the flywheel the key. Any more and they cackle on throttle-up and can be difficult to tune the low speed jet.

Pay attention to that cackle and richen up the low jet if you hear it.

13,100 rpms is where the saw will want to be. She'll take a few cuts to warm up before you see 13k rpms.

Is gearhead key what I need to install if I do the delete?

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Is gearhead key what I need to install if I do the delete?

Nope. Just take a flat file like a raker file and take .015 off the flywheel key. Go slow and check with calipers.

This is where i thought money should go into the 590:
OEM clutch-side felling spikes
Redbeard stihl to echo bar adapter
24" versacut bar/84 dl oregon EXL chain

 

[EFSM]

Not sure it it’s that large or I am too dense to pull it off.

The squish is massive on that model. Even without a base gasket it's probably at least .030".

 

[STOVE]

Nope. Just take a flat file like a raker file and take .015 off the flywheel key. Go slow and check with calipers.

This is where i thought money should go into the 590:
OEM clutch-side felling spikes
Redbeard stihl to echo bar adapter
24" versacut bar/84 dl oregon EXL chain

I am running the Tsumura 20” bar now and Dukes chain. I’ve been very happy with the chain. I also touch it up after any cutting I do so it’s never in too rough of shape.

I wasn’t a fan of the way the outer spike went over the bar nuts. Maybe it’s the steel industry in me but not seeing a thread out the other side of the nut was bugging me.

I may do the timing advance and leave the gasket alone. It seems like it’s far easier to mess up that one. Either too much or too little Honda bond , or somehow getting something in the cylinder

 

[mainer_in_ak]

I am running the Tsumura 20” bar now and Dukes chain. I’ve been very happy with the chain. I also touch it up after any cutting I do so it’s never in too rough of shape.

I wasn’t a fan of the way the outer spike went over the bar nuts. Maybe it’s the steel industry in me but not seeing a thread out the other side of the nut was bugging me.

I may do the timing advance and leave the gasket alone. It seems like it’s far easier to mess up that one. Either too much or too little Honda bond , or somehow getting something in the cylinder

And if at first you don't succeed (first you don't succeed)
Then dust yourself off and try again
You can dust it off and try again, try again

 

[Sloughfoot]

I am running the Tsumura 20” bar now and Dukes chain. I’ve been very happy with the chain. I also touch it up after any cutting I do so it’s never in too rough of shape.

I wasn’t a fan of the way the outer spike went over the bar nuts. Maybe it’s the steel industry in me but not seeing a thread out the other side of the nut was bugging me.

I may do the timing advance and leave the gasket alone. It seems like it’s far easier to mess up that one. Either too much or too little Honda bond , or somehow getting something in the cylinder

Compression increase is huge. Even if it's just 10 lb. Everyone's first base gasket delete is a little intimidating. Really nothing much to it at all.

Do it.

 

[STOVE]

Compression increase is huge. Even if it's just 10 lb. Everyone's first base gasket delete is a little intimidating. Really nothing much to it at all.

Do it.

One of my main concerns is how Much Yama or Honda bond. How close to edges do you put it? Both surfaces or one? Let it cure overnight?

 

[Sloughfoot]

Completely cover it with a thin coat. Any extra just squeezes out. Cleaning both surfaces well beforehand is key. Should say on the tube how long to let it cure.

 

[cuinrearview]

I use a q-tip and "paint" both surfaces with a paper thin layer. Set the jug on the piston just over the rings and tilt the whole top end towards the exhaust. Do the intake half of both surfaces and then tilt it the other way and do the exhaust side of the base and case.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

I wasn’t a fan of the way the outer spike went over the bar nuts. Maybe it’s the steel industry in me but not seeing a thread out the other side of the nut was bugging me.

I may do the timing advance and leave the gasket alone. It seems like it’s far easier to mess up that one. Either too much or too little Honda bond , or somehow getting something in the cycylinder

There is nothing wrong with the way the clutch side spikes are attached. It's no different than how many husqvarna pro saws are set up. It's held in place by a torx screw. If anything the steel plate prevents the bar nuts from gouging the magnesium insert and spreads out the bar nut torque.

If just bucking firewood with the 590, no biggey to have a single, but falling trees, you need a set of spikes becuase they're on the small side.

On the base gasket delete, make sure to slightly rough up the base with sand paper, so the sealant has something to hold to. No smooth surface like how its set up for a gasket. Thought I was a weirdo for doing so, but then the saw porter Tree Monkey/Scott Kunz mentions he does the same thing on his base gasket deletes.

If you're afraid of cured sealant getting in the engine, there's always hylomar blue. Permatex even has a better priced version of hylomar right at Napa.