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I'd be standing in line to buy them....
Good, now I have the business case to convince the wife I need a CNC lathe.
I'd be standing in line to buy them....
tool hoarderI'd be standing in line to buy them....
tool hoarder
I mostly deal with larger saws. I'd like to make one for the 288/394/2100 and with one more piece it should be able to do the 395.
Doesn't the 288, 394 & 395 all use the same crank?Husky makes the tool for the 281/288 #502503008, but I don't see one for the 2100/394/395. Each tool set costs around $55.
Doesn't the 288, 394 & 395 all use the same crank?
Doesn't the 288, 394 & 395 all use the same crank?
Husky makes the tool for the 281/288 #502503008, but I don't see one for the 2100/394/395. Each tool set costs around $55.
That's right, the 395 had a key built into the flywheel.No, the 395 has a different flywheel so the taper and threads of the crank are different.
With so many of these saws using the same thread size on the clutch side.Thought it was time for us to have a thread for making our own crank mounting tools, I may have posted in wrong section lol. Most times we can use the same set on several models. Basic is a socket, rest is just a screw with those threads:
This is 346 crank mounting kit, flywheel side to the left (M8x1), the one in the middle is for PTO side (M10 links), part to the right is the socket we need.
View attachment 41641
Overview over different crank threads (F=flywheel side, PTO=clutch side) (links=counterclockwise threaded):
Husky:
View attachment 49356
133/234/238/242/246/42:
F: M8
PTO: 3/8" V (links)
240/340/40/44/444:
F: M8
PTO: M10 V (links)
50/51/55:
F: M8×1
PTO: M10 V (links)
254/257/262:
F: M8×1
PTO: M10 V (links)
346/353:
F: M8×1
PTO: M10×1 V (links)
357/359:
F: M8×1
PTO: M10 V (links)
Info from @Stackowood
362/365/371/372:
F: M8×1
PTO: M14×1.25 V (links)
Info from @Stackowood
385/390:
F: M8×1
PTO: M14×1.25 V (links)
545/550/555/560/562:
F: M8x1
PTO: M10 V (links)
Huskies # numbers for models:
# 502 50 30 01, 2100
# 502 50 30 04, 61/66/162/266/268/272
# 502 50 30 06, 44/444
# 502 50 30 07, 133/234/238/42/242/246
# 502 50 30 08, 281/288 (394/3120/181/2101)
# 502 50 30 09, 40/45/51/55
# 502 50 30 10, 154/254/257/262
# 502 50 30 15, 362/365/371/372
# 502 50 30 16, 357/359
# 502 50 30 17, 385/390
# 502 50 30 18, 346/351/353
# 502 50 30 19, 343R,F/345RX,FX,FXT/355
# 502 50 30 20, 570/575
# 502 50 30 23, 545/550/555/560/562
Feel free to add info for different models, and I will update the first post.
This is how those crank mounting tools are used (254):
View attachment 41642
I cant speak for 266, but if the outside diameter on the clutch is the same....With so many of these saws using the same thread size on the clutch side.
Could we be able to mix and match clutches?
Like a common 346 clutch on a 266 that's starting to get hard to find.
The 262 is was thinking not the 266 as I typed.I cant speak for 266, but if the outside diameter on the clutch is the same....
If we take 254/257/261/262 as example I belive the clutch overal dimension match 357/550/562 clutch.
Only issue I can see is to make a different washer if the tickness is very different.
Brian, Im 99% sure you can use a 357 clutch, its the one who match best, I thought myself to use a 357 clutch on my next build.The 262 is was thinking not the 266 as I typed.
Thanks TorBrian, Im 99% sure you can use a 357 clutch, its the one who match best, I thought myself to use a 357 clutch on my next build.
Btw, 562 clutch is a tad more slim compared to 357 clutch.
Your way to think is totally correct, when the threads is the same and when the overal dimension match, different clutches can be used and will work.
The other thing we need to pay attention to is the washer tickness, we dont want clutch drum to travel to mutch
sometime Husky use UNC or UNF, most of the time it is Metric.Well, I did some measuring with a caliper and this is what I found:
288xp and 1100CD crank shafts measured same diameter.
Flywheel - 10mm
Clutch - 12mm
272xp
Flywheel - 8mm
clutch - 10mm
I do not know how to measure the pitch