Cobbling

[Dub11]

So in the last few years I've started a new hobby that I can say saves me money, cobbling. So here is a pair of boots I'm reworking. Now with no machines and limited free time this is a slow going process.

I'm also keen on doing things like this to diminish the throw away ideas that have been all the "rage" these days.

Also good boots are like pro grade chainsaws, easier to fix.

So what we have here is a pair of RW 2213.

 

[Woodtroll]

It’s always good to have the ability to repair your own belongings!

 

[Dub11]

Now before I go any further I've stumbled in to this after falling into a YT rabbit hole of what makes footwear brand "A" cost more that brand "B" a d then that lead me to cobbler channels Bedos leather works, Revival shoe repair and KW shoe repair have been the best for me.

So let's "continue".

These boot being goodyear welt would a pretty simple fix but the welt stitching has broke.

 

[Dub11]

So I'm going to take a heel pry and work open around the welt and midsole to expose the stitching.
And here is the midsole is like a leather board or fiber board. Either way its junk.

 

[Dub11]

So after working around the whole boot and cutting the threads we arrive here.
Boot on the right old sole on the left and this is the fattest shank I've ever seen on a boot.
Here is a typical 3 rib you find on other RW boots

 

[Dub11]

Now here are the sole stitching hole on the welt you want to clean out if you keep the welt.

But we're going a different direction. I cut the welt stitching from just around the toe box area.

Because this owner want to shake hands with danger a d delete the steel toe.

I had first wetted down the leather with a 50/50 mix of water alcohol so I can pull it back. You want to be careful doing this. The factory staples the gimming and upper leather together before welting. And you have a toe box liner and a toe puff in there too that you don't want to damage when you pull back.



You can kind of see that rusty line below the hole.
And here you can see more of them. If you look closely. Also after removing the steel you'll want to tie a couple spots off so when you remove the rest of the welt the boot holds it shape.

 

[Dub11]

So on to the rewelting process. 3 basic types. Flat, storm and split. I can only find the first 2 but here is 3 option. A wide flat for cowboy boots and brown flat for dress shoe and a storm for work boots typically you replace a storm with a storm. Or you can replace a flat with a storm.

 

[Dub11]

Well before you start clean and oil the boots. It can help keep the welt stitching clean depending on the direction of your project.
Now when starting the welt you'll want to make a bevel cut for a smooth seem at the end. I try and make the first cut the hard one so that your final cut is a nice down stroke when you're done.

And dont make the final cut till the end it's damn near impossible to measure these out correctly.

 

[Dub11]

IMPORTANT EDIT HERE!!!!!!
start the welt in the inside if the boot just behind the arch where it flattens and straightened back out. Usually this is where the manufacturer does it. And I'm just following in there footsteps on the rebuild.


For this next part you'll need a awl and jerk needle. It's just a hooked needle.



So I have 1 length of cord I'm sewing with and I use a waxed end as the call it on the inner stitch as a backer of sorts. I'm following the original welt hole in the upper, no need to make new holes in it.

This is a long process probably close to 2 hours of work.
The white canvas you see that's attached to the footbed is called gimming. It's a little fragile when using this thick cord. I also wet down the welt with a little alcohol to help the needle slide through.

I use this stuff here because the other crap I got at hobby lobby would keep breaking.

And here is kind of the pattern of stitching you'll see on the inside as you're going.

 

[Dub11]

Now when coming around the heel and toe box you'll want to try and bunch up the welt some so it doesn't pull to tight when you roll it over to apply the midsole
Am also pre punching the hole in the welt here to help with that.
And this is why I use that waxed end on the inside the gimming is a little damaged and this will help strengthen it up.

 

[redline4]

Very cool Wayne.
How does one know if the boots are ones that could be repaired vs ones that are simply destined for the garbage can? I assume its the type of overall construction on them?

 

[Dub11]

Now at completion of the welt I'll pull the string through to tie off inside.

And here is what the welt seem will look like. Not the best but better than a butt joint .

 

[cuinrearview]

Very cool Wayne.
How does one know if the boots are ones that could be repaired vs ones that are simply destined for the garbage can? I assume its the type of overall construction on them?

I never would have imagined you'd get past jerk needle...

Cool thread Wayne. Subbed.

 

[redline4]

I never would have imagined you'd get past jerk needle...

Cool thread Wayne. Subbed.

Every so often my brain matures.
It's rare.

 

[Dub11]

Very cool Wayne.
How does one know if the boots are ones that could be repaired vs ones that are simply destined for the garbage can? I assume its the type of overall construction on them?

If you have the right guy any foot wear can be repaired. But usually the Goodyear welt stuff is going to provide better results with its simplicity.
Cemented shoe on the left gyw on the right. The GYW will have the lip at the bottom. Also there is blake stitched shoes like these mocs that can be fixed easily.


And here is a guy I watch that is adding a welt to a cemented shoe.

He is a damn master!


And some brands will add a fake welt because there scumbags or there making dress shoes. If you're unsure you can pull back the welt from the upper and look for some stitches.

 

[EFSM]

Interesting posts. If you haven't, you must read the short story "Quality" by John Galsworthy, about an old cobbler.

 

[Dub11]

I never would have imagined you'd get past jerk needle...

Cool thread Wayne. Subbed.

Thanks

Interesting posts. If you haven't, you must read the short story "Quality" by John Galsworthy, about an old cobbler.

I'll have to look that up.

 

[crowslayer17]

Very interesting and informative. Thanks for sharing. It's getting harder to find people who repair boots these days. It sucks having to get rid of a comfortable pair of boots because they are falling apart.

 

[Dub11]

Now on to the next step of adding the shank and filler with us using cork, which is traditional and will mold to you foot shape.

Some brands will skimp and use carpet foam. I tried leather on a previous pair and it felt more firm but end squeaking after a few year of use.

Another pair I used eva foam and it felt great but it wasn't long before you could feel that the heel area collapsed.

Also if you choose so and are going to use a wedge sole you can for go the shank for improved padding and comfort.

 

[Dub11]

Now I apply a peice of canvas over the shank as a squeak guard.
And now the best part, slathering contact cement down. FREE SMELLS LOL.

And this js the leather midsole. I think it's ment as an actual sole for dress shoes or cowboy boots.
It's probably on the thick side but there precut and only $12 a pair. Which I feel is cheap and wish RW would of used in the first place instead of that garbage in an early picture.