Cannon 50" bar restoration question

[Whitty21]

I originally got this bar on a totally wrecked 090 that was going to be a wall piece. However I recently picked up a husky 2100 I think this would work well on with an adapter.

As you can see in the pics, it's pretty rough. What's the general consensus? I am sure it's fine. Seems straight. I was thinking either blueing it or leaving it naked.

On the naked note. Do you guys treat the bar with anything to prevent rust? Or just keep it oiled?

I will dress the bar rails, but any thoughts on what to do with the groove? It's not too bad but there is some rust buildup in there.

Thanks in advance

 

[dall]

@Icepick69

 

[Warped5]

www.chainbar.com

 

[Al Smith]

50 inches is a lot of bar for a 2100 .You can use "naval jelly" a rust remover that will rid the rust or soak in citric oil .

 

[Whitty21]

50 inches is a lot of bar for a 2100 .You can use "naval jelly" a rust remover that will rid the rust or soak in citric oil .

I know it is a lot of bar for it. But within factory specs. Anything that gets that gig around here will generally be box elder or other soft maples. With a skip chain I feel it would be useful one or twice. The saw will do 90% of its work with a 36"

 

[jakethesnake]

I'd just oil it up and set it aside. The rust in the rails will wear off if you ever actually use it

 

[Lee H]

That bar is hardly used. If the rails are clean and the tip spins smooth then
i'd give the tip some grease and run it.

 

[Whitty21]

That bar is hardly used. If the rails are clean and the tip spins smooth then
i'd give the tip some grease and run it.

It's a hard nose and it seems the helper handle has been on the whole time. So it's in good shape. Just the considerable rust is the only issue

 

[Dub11]

Soak it in some vinegar . I've seen a few people use it and if there's any lettering left it will safe it.

 

[CR888]

Die grinder with 3M roloc pad (scotchbrite style -fine) & some rail dressing. It should clean up really nice, that bar is a beauty! It was made before the black oxide finished ones. Lucky to get a nice OEM helper handle too. I'd love to own a setup like that.

 

[Derf]

Acid eats rust. If you have a pool supply store nearby they sell concentrated muriatic acid which is hydrochloric acid. Be very careful with that stuff! I've fixed old chains with this method, the more concentrated the faster it works. Just rinse off the acid afterwards with water, air gun off the water, spray with WD-40 to further displace the water and provide a moisture barrier.

Otherwise if you can find / make a tray for the bar or wrap it in plastic, Coca-Cola has enough acid in it that after a few hours it'll eat off the rust.

 

[Whitty21]

Acid eats rust. If you have a pool supply store nearby they sell concentrated muriatic acid which is hydrochloric acid. Be very careful with that stuff! I've fixed old chains with this method, the more concentrated the faster it works. Just rinse off the acid afterwards with water, air gun off the water, spray with WD-40 to further displace the water and provide a moisture barrier.

Otherwise if you can find / make a tray for the bar or wrap it in plastic, Coca-Cola has enough acid in it that after a few hours it'll eat off the rust.

I have muriatic acid. But frankly the stuff scares me and I don't really know how I would deal with spillage and I don't want to kill my dog

 

[Dustin4185]

I have muriatic acid. But frankly the stuff scares me and I don't really know how I would deal with spillage and I don't want to kill my dog

Muriatic acid isn't that bad. We use it to clean boats all the time. I also use some before welding on aluminum boats. It is water soluble. That is why pool places carry it. It is to correct t pH problems with high calcium waters.

 

[Whitty21]

I think I am going to try the vinegar route first, I will see how that goes and let you guys know

 

[Al Smith]

You could always use a belt sander then paint it if you wanted to .Make it look spiffy but it won't cut any better .
I usually don't except for a few I restored and sent the pics to Mike Acres .On that while I've repaired many I haven't restored a saw in probably at least 10 years .

 

[Dub11]

50/50 Apple cider vinegar and water is the recipe. Got it from @sawnami

 

[Derf]

50/50 Apple cider vinegar and water is the recipe. Got it from @sawnami

Ok, first, I doubt which type of vinegar you use matters. Apple cider, white, balsamic... its vinegar.

Second, vinegar contains acetic acid, which is an organic acid much weaker than mineral acids like hydrochloric/muriatic or sulfuric acid... diluting it 50-50 is only going to slow your process down from hours to days.

 

[Whitty21]

Ok, first, I doubt which type of vinegar you use matters. Apple cider, white, balsamic... its vinegar.

Second, vinegar contains acetic acid, which is an organic acid much weaker than mineral acids like hydrochloric/muriatic or sulfuric acid... diluting it 50-50 is only going to slow your process down from hours to days.

I am thinking/hoping that he was using a hint of sarcasm there

 

[sawnami]

Before and after 50/50 apple cider vinegar and water.

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk

 

[Whitty21]

Before and after 50/50 apple cider vinegar and water.

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk

Fair enough, I will probably try and use as much vinegar as possible. My main problem right now is to think of a container to hold the bar/vinegar, pretty sure I wont be allowed to use the bath tub

I was thinking I may be able to rig something up with tin foil or something...