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7900 coil swap

Poleman

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Fist thing you will want to do is take off the coil wire that comes with the coil.
Next you need to enlarge the 272 could mounting holes so coil can be adjusted on saw for proper air gap.

Take the plug out, starter cover off and remove original coil. Unplug ground wire and unscrew could wire out of OEM coil as you will leave it in place and reuse it.
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Next I super glue two small flat washer on the case mounting posts. This is to gain just a little room under the coil to run the spark plug wire underneath coil.

I put the boot on but thats an option when screwing in the could wire into the coil.
The next part is probably the hardest....mount the coil with the so cable underneath. In rare instance you may need to slightly pull the cable slightly longer.
Tighten down the coil to hold in place, insert card, feeler or whatever you use to set air gap. Manipulate coil to gain proper spacing and tighten.20150901_172641.jpg

Now find TDC on the saw. I find points to reference at TDC. I find the back of the case molding works for me. I make a mark on the case and flywheel. I also cold chiske the crank itself and a closer mark on the flywheel. This is for restoration of putting on the original coil if need be.20150901_170902.jpg



20150901_170854.jpgNow find the fin that lines up at this point and mark and or file it to a point for later refferance after use.
 

Poleman

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This is the mark that works out most of the time. Some slight veriances in mfgi g happen....just stay true and use marking that will work for you.

That will be TDC mark. I find it easier if I made a template off a degree that is smaller. I just alighn TDC mark and degree shoulder to 35°'s.
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Now you can grind out the tab in the flywheel.
Keeping the crank mark on the original TDC now install the flywheel with the marked fin to the 30° mark on the case that was marked earlier. Tap the flywheel down and tighten by hand. ( I've found if I do it with an impack I move the crank when tightening. Once tightened you can hit it with impack.

Now double check your marks....fin should be at 30° and mark on crank should be pointing to the mark at the back of the case.

Assemble saw and start!!!! Throttle responds should be very quick....if not your restarted and you will need to recheck or advance flywheel. If starting the saw pulls back thats an indicator your advanced to far. The saw should start in 3 pulls if set right when cold. Pull 1..... pull 2 pop......pull 3 move choke to fast idle and it will come to life!!!! All my saws are modded with Carb mods and they all start in three pulls wether its 0°s or 100°'s.

If flywheel slips or moves I've user 518 to hold it in place.

Thats pretty much how I do it and mark things. First time is the worse until you see how everything fits/works together.

It takes me 45 minutes now to do this where the first time.....well lets just say it took longer. First time I was also figuring out the best way to mark and do everything so it could be easily passed on.

Carl, thanks for the use of the clean saw!!!
 

Poleman

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Just trying to help the Dolmar enthusists get all the can out of their saws Randy. I just included it here since it seemed to follow the thread.
 

Lootbug

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Wow great stuff! Maybe we could see a thread on the carb mods also? I imagine the combo of unlimited coil and modded carb make these saws really fun :devil:!
 

Poleman

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Works for me Randy!!!! Thanks!!

This will be the Q & A section so the coil swap/mod so it will all be tied together in one spot.

To me the most important marks are some of the first ones....The Crank and the flywheel at TDC. If you have that right you'll always know your way home and can start over again incase the flywheel slipped or for some reason the flywheel needs pulled....you can always set it to where it was.
 

Mastermind

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So......

You mark the crank and flywheel at the crank stub. Then you mark the flywheel and case at TDC.

From that point, you advance the flywheel 30°.

Right?
 
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