peak performance
Active OPE Member
- Local time
- 11:40 AM
- User ID
- 35646
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2026
- Messages
- 20
- Reaction score
- 35
- Location
- Alberta, Canada
40s was common in that era. Often more than that on saws from the 70s and 80s. I don't believe there are very many saws today that come factory in the low 20s.wow i wouldn't have guessed the factory squish to be so loose
I'll raise the exhaust a hair to 99 again and rough up the intake and I think that might be it. Blowdown will be raised a bit doing that. I shed a few grams of the piston as well to lighten it up.Bet that gives it more gusto. You doing anything else to it?
That was a new hyway cylinder and pop up piston I was surprised it wasn't a bit tighterwow i wouldn't have guessed the factory squish to be so loose
Hyway is known for plating peeling issues when ported. Best to just port out the exhaust port and leave it untouched at the cylinders edge.That was a new hyway cylinder and pop up piston I was surprised it wasn't a bit tighter
Hyway is known for plating peeling issues when ported. Best to just port out the exhaust port and leave it untouched at the cylinders edge.
I haven’t used them, but those who have say the plating is crazy hard. Otherwise they’re your ordinary Taiwanese casting, just plated in Italy.Thoughts on Meteor cylinders? My presumption is they'd be pretty good aftermarket.... I like their pistons at least
I would. I'd widen the exhaust to the limit as well.So the saw is going back together 100/119/77. Curious, should I lower the intake floor a hair to try and get 78 maybe 79? Would it be worth it?
Ya i think I'll trim off the intake side of piston to get 78 or 79. Exhaust is opened up already. Getting close to see it runI would. I'd widen the exhaust to the limit as well.
Toughest cylinder I've come across, is more difficult to work over. I consider it the best AM replacement cylinder option, especially for stock saws, or mildly built ones.Thoughts on Meteor cylinders? My presumption is they'd be pretty good aftermarket.... I like their pistons at least
Toughest cylinder I've come across, is more difficult to work over. I consider it the best AM replacement cylinder option, especially for stock saws, or mildly built ones.
I always tell the story of the 660 that came in with one that broke the top ring off and chewed it up and spat it out. The top of the piston looked like the surface of the moon, the cylinder, not so much as a scratch on it.
The only one I ever fully ported; I bent the boring bar and wrecked the tool holder trying to machine the squish band. I really had a time trying to get a carbide cutter to get through the plating when porting and even the aluminum was tougher and harder than any OEM cylinder I've come across.
I recently put a 357xp Meteor P&C kit in my 359G saw that I have. OEM stock has dried up and the few that were left are going for more than the whole saw is worth. I just set the squish by turning down the base and ported out the exhaust port without getting near the cylinders edge and left the rest alone. The saw runs plenty good like that and am happy with it for a firewood saw when heated handles are desirable.
If a used OEM cylinder can be sourced reasonably, that can be a good option too, just buying a new piston.Right on perfect good to hear some first-hand machining experience. I feel ya re: OE cylinders.. they are getting hard to find (for the older saws) and are STUPID expensive... i'm going to be in the market for a 372 jug and it's nice to know I could confidently just get a Meteor product and move on with life. Give Wolf Creek some business and just cringe over the exchange rate haha
If a used OEM cylinder can be sourced reasonably, that can be a good option too, just buying a new piston.
I look at it this way, a piston is one of the easiest parts to make, a cylinder on the other hand, is one of the hardest.




