High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

20JPX chain?

SawTroll

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Basically about 33% slower - but part of that will be compensated by less resistance in the wood (= higher chain speed). Part of it can be compensated by a larger drive sprocket as well, if the saw is strong enough - but then the resistance in the wood also goes up again.

There really is only one way to find the final answer, with a specific operator and saw, in specific wood - trying to calculate it is bound to fail...

I believe a good rule of thumb is to only use skip if chip clearance is the issue - not for any other (expected/theoretical) purpose - unless the saw just is too small and weak for the wood and/or bar length?
 
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radio

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Those rakers don't look the same. The lower one is larger.

They are the same. You're not seeing the complete top cutter since it is on the back side of the chain.
 

radio

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When I said cutter I was referring to the complete cutter piece which includes the depth gauge. You cannot see the whole cutter so it appears the top one has a shorter depth gauge. Just look one of your chains and you will see the same thing.
 

radio

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Look at the rakers, not the cutters.

In case you're not familiar with the nomenclature or construction of chainsaw chain here are a couple of diagrams.

chain pieces.jpg

cutter.jpg
 

OldJack

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Mea Culpa, I was mistaken. I played with a chain, flexing it back and forth until the light came on. The bump on the rear link's raker is hiding behind the drive link when the chain is straighted out. It looks like the Stihl chain on my MS-170 which I don't use that much, compared to the Oregon chains I've got. The Oregon's don't have that bump.
 
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