036 oiler nightmare

[angelo c]

Okay. Forget everything I said about my approach to doing these oil lines. LOL

Was at my favorite Stihl dealer the other day and asked him how he did em. Said if he told me he'd hafta kill me.
He's been doing these lines since day one and claims he has a way that is so fast and simple it's ridiculous..., and that's with the hard tube kit and no heat. Wouldn't give it up no matter how hard I tried and is trying to get Stihl to pay him to obtain the the method first. Says they've been warm to it in the past, but aren't gettin' off any caish for his secret..., evidently in favor of their crazy modified pliers method instead. Says if I guess he'll acknowledge it. Also said it's so simple I'll be ashamed of myself for not thinking of it sooner.

I thought I had it yesterday and called him to see if I was correct. How 'bout a hammer and a nail? (Doesn't get much simpler than that!) No cigar. (But he did like the idea and said I was getting close.)

A small hammer and an 3 or 4 penny nail. Cut nail just shorter than the piece of tube depending on length of the nail. (Much easier than modifying a pair o' pliers!) Slide the nail into the tube to keep it from collapsing. Put the pump in a vise or screw it to a bench like Backtroller's example. Tap the line home on the barb. Done. Could also just push the pump onto the hose up against an object since it's supported by the nail and won't kink or bend. The key to 'being close' according to my buddy was using something inside the tube to make the job easier. I've since also thought about using compressed air like doing handle hose but haven't had a chance to ask him about it again.

I also asked him Angelo's question about why such rigid material for the line. Said they did back pressure tests on softer line until they found a material that wouldn't split at the bend or leak at the barb under high temp conditions if the delivery end got obstructed..., as in wrong bar or plugged oil passages. Just sounds like more German over engineering to me.

So guys..., any other guesses?

Can you ask him WTH the spring is for then ?
P S. Mine took about 20 mins max. Little heat (boiling water) on the tip. Just where it mounted to the barb. Then a heat gun just ahead of the hole/passage and pushed it on through. Easy Peasy. Helped to have the oiler screwed down . Next one I'm gonna try to heat the barb and just push it home. I bent a small section in the first go because...well...because if a small hammer don't do the job ...well then get a frenching bigger hammer....on other words, I pushed too hard and bent it. Pushed less then it went home.

 

[Stump Shot]

Can you ask him WTH the spring is for then ?
P S. Mine took about 20 mins max. Little heat (boiling water) on the tip. Just where it mounted to the barb. Then a heat gun just ahead of the hole/passage and pushed it on through. Easy Peasy. Helped to have the oiler screwed down . Next one I'm gonna try to heat the barb and just push it home. I bent a small section in the first go because...well...because if a small hammer don't do the job ...well then get a frenching bigger hammer....on other words, I pushed too hard and bent it. Pushed less then it went home.

If I recall correctly the spring went in just before the little brass flared thingy on the end so it doesn't kink when it makes the bend.

 

[Backtroller]

That is correct

 

[MattG]

A small hammer and an 3 or 4 penny nail. Cut nail just shorter than the piece of tube depending on length of the nail. (Much easier than modifying a pair o' pliers!) Slide the nail into the tube to keep it from collapsing.

Help me out with the yankee terminology here Poge. I'm good with the modded pliers, but your method got me curious.

So are you just talking about a nail whose diameter is a shade less than the hose, and you cut it to be a lil bit (i.e. by the installed length on the barb) shorter than the hose length?

(Then obviously just tap her down from the nail head)

EDIT: sorry I just stopped to think of it a tad more, yes, I've got my interpretation right. And yeah it sounds like a damn good technique!

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Okay. Forget everything I said about my approach to doing these oil lines. LOL

Was at my favorite Stihl dealer the other day and asked him how he did em. Said if he told me he'd hafta kill me.
He's been doing these lines since day one and claims he has a way that is so fast and simple it's ridiculous..., and that's with the hard tube kit and no heat. Wouldn't give it up no matter how hard I tried and is trying to get Stihl to pay him to obtain the the method first. Says they've been warm to it in the past, but aren't gettin' off any caish for his secret..., evidently in favor of their crazy modified pliers method instead. Says if I guess he'll acknowledge it. Also said it's so simple I'll be ashamed of myself for not thinking of it sooner.

I thought I had it yesterday and called him to see if I was correct. How 'bout a hammer and a nail? (Doesn't get much simpler than that!) No cigar. (But he did like the idea and said I was getting close.)

A small hammer and an 3 or 4 penny nail. Cut nail just shorter than the piece of tube depending on length of the nail. (Much easier than modifying a pair o' pliers!) Slide the nail into the tube to keep it from collapsing. Put the pump in a vise or screw it to a bench like Backtroller's example. Tap the line home on the barb. Done. Could also just push the pump onto the hose up against an object since it's supported by the nail and won't kink or bend. The key to 'being close' according to my buddy was using something inside the tube to make the job easier. I've since also thought about using compressed air like doing handle hose but haven't had a chance to ask him about it again.

I also asked him Angelo's question about why such rigid material for the line. Said they did back pressure tests on softer line until they found a material that wouldn't split at the bend or leak at the barb under high temp conditions if the delivery end got obstructed..., as in wrong bar or plugged oil passages. Just sounds like more German over engineering to me.

So guys..., any other guesses?

I'm fixing to build an 036 in the next week or so. If you get an answer please let us know. I'm eager to hear their solution to this issue.

 

[Mastermind]

After 3 pages I gotta say. LMAO

These oil lines are damn simple if you just follow the instructions provided with the kit.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm surprised Stihl doesn't make a $30 pair o' pliers and a $20 drift just for these oil lines...

...or show ya how to do it with a hammer and a nail.

 

[Mastermind]

I'm surprised Stihl doesn't make a $30 pair o' pliers and a $20 drift just for these oil lines...

...or show ya how to do it with a hammer and a nail.

I just clamp a set of needlenose plies in the vice......and drill a hole. Dead simple.

 

[RI Chevy]

Nice idea.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I just clamp a set of needlenose plies in the vice......and drill a hole. Dead simple.

View attachment 108881

In my mind, that's almost porno stuff, sharp thing and pliers with a little hole

After all it's Friday night and I'm all beer'd up

 

[RI Chevy]

Don't get all wonkey on us now. Lol

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Dead simple.

This is simpler... (I just happened to have an old 034 handy for demonstration purposes.) I obviously don't have the line trimmed to proper length, but you should get the idea. Insert nail. Tap line home. Done in 5 seconds.

Here's a pic of the old braided line they used to use. Those pliers would probably work pretty well for pounding that sleeve down over the barb.



And fwiw if you want to save the brass insert from an old line before cutting it or otherwise destroying it during removal, you can extract it easily with a drywall screw.


​

I'm fixing to build an 036 in the next week or so. If you get an answer please let us know. I'm eager to hear their solution to this issue.

Well Jimmy, I asked him again the other day and he's not giving up his secret. That said, he does endorse the hammer and nail idea too!

 

[Jimmy in NC]

After 3 pages I gotta say. LMAO

These oil lines are damn simple if you just follow the instructions provided with the kit.

I just clamp a set of needlenose plies in the vice......and drill a hole. Dead simple.

View attachment 108881

Ok... needle nose better than say linemen pliers?

My mathing says 7/32 drill is dang close to 5.5mm.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Jimmy in NC]

This is simpler... (I just happened to have an old 034 handy for demonstration purposes.) I obviously don't have the line trimmed to proper length, but you should get the idea. Insert nail. Tap line home. Done in 5 seconds.

View attachment 108882

Here's a pic of the old braided line they used to use. Those pliers would probably work pretty well for pounding that sleeve down over the barb.

View attachment 108884

And fwiw if you want to save the brass insert from an old line before cutting it or otherwise destroying it during removal, you can extract it easily with a drywall screw.

View attachment 108887
​

Well Jimmy, I asked him again the other day and he's not giving up his secret. That said, he does endorse the hammer and nail idea too!

I have no idea which way I will go. I may try this nail method... proper tools always makes a job much easier. Not planning on doing many of these saws....

May have a broken tipped set of needle nose...gotta dig.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Mastermind]

Looks like I need to just go back to my corner. LOL

Carry on.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Truth be told, I tried drilling a pair of pliers for the purpose. I simply didn't have a sharp enough bit the correct size and gave up on that approach. Would take me longer to finish those pliers with a sharp bit than it would take to do 5 lines with the nail method.
One thing to note when using a nail is that it will flair the delivery end slightly..., enough that it will need trimmed back a hair to fit up through the channel. A little extra length is advised to compensate..., a couple mm. Otherwise, I can't imagine an easier way to get the line on the pump fitting. A little oil on the barb and it goes right on.

The line in the 1124-007-1010 kit is long enough to do two 036 style oilers (or one 084). Older kits may still include the ring pictured above to slide down over the barbs. I certainly wouldn't bother trying to use it if it's in the kit. It's not included in newer kits.

Either way you go, good luck with it.

 

[RI Chevy]

Is it the line that needs upgrading? The pumps remain in good working order?
Going through all this work, why not upgrade to a new pump at the same time?

 

[Backtroller]

I have never had a bad pump. The ones I’ve seen had seriously deformed lines, melted lines, that leaked like a sieve.

 

[RI Chevy]

Thank you.

 

[Backtroller]

The only broken one that I’ve seen was worn through by using the wrong clutch and incorrect washer. There’s not much inside of them. I guess the “teeth” could break or wear out too.