Recent content by srcarr52

Generally my stuff gets enough use it stays covered with it's own lubricating oil or coolant enough not to have any rusting problems. Back in the day at the machine shop lesser used machines raw surfaces would get wiped down with wd40 or marvels mystery oil.

They've been out of business for a while, the owner has passed away. The building they operated out of is dilapidated and graffitied on google street view.

Probably a carbide slitting saw.

I used an internally reinforced cut wheel made by Norton I got from McMaster-Carr, it worked for 63g but I had to dress the wheel down for 50g. Now I can't find the wheel on McMaster anymore.

The stratos open when the top of the piston cut out is above the bottom of the upper transfer, so you've already added a ton of strato timing by dropping the jug so much.

Completely disassembled the motor, measured the run out of the shaft between centers on the lathe and used a press to straighten it.

It can probably be straightened by any reputable electric motor shop. I've straightened shafts on many silvey motors.

The carbs on those NH843's are junk. It will likely not run very well.

For reference here is what I leave between the ports. The photo was taken before port beveling.

It appears that the transfers have been raised less than what was cut from the squish band as well as the terrible grinding on the transfer port divider.

I have it back. I did some updates to it while I had it apart and it put up some impressive numbers on Joes dyno before eating another big end rod bearing.

They take a lot of grinding to be even that good.

That's the AM 395 big bore cylinder fighting it. The OEM cylinder ones ran out a lot further, the BB had more lower end grunt (~10.4hp at 8k!).

Don't you have a few 064's I tickled too?

The 37" cannon bar I have is 119DL.