Recent content by srcarr52

Pretty sure his 116cc saw blew up so he pivoted and made the 90.28cc version. No, I didn't make any posts about it. I kept it pretty secret as I had no idea how it was going to pan out.

All of it. I didn't have to clearance the case at all.

Or just ditch cut out the remanence of the threads, weld it back in solid and shoot a new hole.

Mine was actually a 38.5mm stroke, 52mm bore = 81.76cc.

Depends on how soft those tires are.

I know I wouldn't be able to resist firing up that kart and spinning some donuts on that super clean floor!

I see a 394/5 cylinder cover. Any other stuff from that series?

So they control the zones with shut offs on each loop on the manifold?

It's an Autotune saw, there are no H&L screws.

If you plan on doing chainsaw cylinders I would say nothing less than a 9" throw.

You might just need to move the stone arbor on the motor shaft. The 450 lacks a vertical adjustment in the arm you so have to move the stone arbor when making massive changes to angles.

Some of both, the longer spikes create more moment arm on the mounts so I wouldn't jam them into hardwood like you would something with thick bark.

You can also use some bloc-it heat paste but the damage is far enough away from anything else that I wouldn't bother. I probably weld 10 saws like this a year, most caused by using extremely large WC style AM dogs in Midwest hardwood.

Try an insert first, when that fails I can weld it.

I've welded many like this with only removing the chain brake parts that can be melted and the muffler for access. Everything else is far enough away to not be in danger.