The trimmer has never ran better since I installed that NGK with the .025" gap.
I used to have kind of an uneven idle speed. Now it's rock steady. Very pleased.
I bought an NGK CMR4H. NGK says they recommend the gap to be .028". STIHL says it should be .020".
The actual gap I measured with a feeler leaf is .025". Can I leave it at .025" or should I squeeze is down to .020" ?
This is for my STIHL FS 91 R string trimmer which I consider to be a hero...
On a cold start the rope is easy to pull. When the trimmer gets hot after running for so long, the rope is harder to pull.
Is this the beginning of the valves needing adjusting?
Just to update this thread, I found out that the limiter cap is on an air bleed valve, not an idle jet. That's why there's not much of an idle performance difference by changing the position of the valve. The idle will actually get worse by changing the position too far. If I'm ever going to fix...
I have one. The first generation swivel cuff used to pop out of joint. They have since came out with an upgraded version. The unit still has a very stiff corrugated elbow that is cumbersome to move around. The runtime is only about 40 minutes on wide open throttle. Most of the time it sits in...
There's a guy who posted on the Lawnsite forum about his BR 450 saying the rope is very hard to pull for starting. He goes on to say the rope is easier to pull with the spark plug removed. That's why I was asking if the blower had a compression release.
I'm looking for an illustrated parts list and a service manual for the latest generation FS 131 R with the Intellicarb. I'm curious as all heck about the Intellicarb.
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