Recent content by Hillwilliam

I have a couple of other things you may want: Wrist pin bearing - not new. Should be fine, but you would be better off if you could find a new one. I had one explode in my hopped-up P52, and I'm pretty sure I used a new one when I rebuilt/ built it, since I always do that. It did a lot of...

I'm only about 5' 9" now. I was taller before I got a big tree on my head 40+ yrs. ago. I was pretty scrawny back when I cut timber for a living, but I could do the work ever day. I'm bigger and stronger now, but one day in a row of cutting timber would do me in.

You're correct. He just made a mistake, and nobody caught it before the book went to print. I think I remember making a note on that page in my ancient copy before I gave it to my son.

I acquired one of those free a while back. Fixed a couple of things and fought with pesky air leaks for a while. Pretty snotty stock, but I ported mine conservatively, and it will turn 16 grand. Thought it might be able to handle a 24, but I changed my mind and it still has the 20 it came...

I'd be interested in carb #1 with the plastic thing for the cable end, if it's still available.

Those are fast saws indeed! You aren't losing much RPM in the cut. It's sounding more and more like I want to run 'fast and loose', rather than going hog wild about compression. I'm learning little by little. I'd be out of my element if I wasn't allowed to use a chisel-filed chain - like not...

I just thought of another consideration: Here at 8,000' elev., there isn't a lot of air in the air. I believe we end up with only 80% of the compression one would have at sea level. Still, I don't think I want to get too carried away with compression if it will impede RPMs.

They don't use cants around here anymore. It's peeled logs, maybe 14" diameter, and it's down to 20" bars. Usually only two cuts, rather than three. Screamin' RPMs appears to be an asset. The weapon of choice for medium class (maybe stock-appearing, if they used that term) is the 681, built...

Thanks. 35 years ago, I would compete and usually win with my work saws and racing chains, but I can't even be in the game anymore. Now that my son is getting interested, we need something much more competitive. I don't cut timber anymore, but I just love my old ported Pioneers for firewood.

Sounds like you're suggesting I take .050" out of the squish band. Now you have me thinking I'll want to go for .021" to .025" for squish clearance. Your Dolmar must be a a real rip-snorter! I don't plan on using a head - yet anyway. I'll see what i can do without going that far. Thanks...

Thanks, Dolkita, for all that advice. I'm thinking that too much compression (and too tight a squish) could inhibit the kind of RPMs I want. The Solo is a nice simple saw, but an odd one to me. Also, a full-on competition saw is a new thing to me. For exhaust height, all I know so far is...

I finally had the chance to get the bottom end together and check the squish using a Dolmar gasket. The gasket is right at .020", and I plan to use it since I'll have to take the jug back off a number of times while porting. The gasket is aluminum - or metal anyway - and I don't expect it to...

I'm still figuring that out. Likely just enough out of the the squish band to get 'er nice and flat and pretty. The base will need to be cut as well, but I'd like to minimize that, because I'm wary of advancing the intake too much - at first, anyway. I'll want to have a tight squish, but I...

I'll be needing someone to cut the squish, etc. on my recently-acquired Solo 681. I don't build enough saws to justify having a lathe. Help from somebody with experience would be much appreciated, and I'll pay. Thanks