I have never run one but I believe it is a high revving pro saw. Watched for one to try for a long time but like 60cc for the stuff I do.
I like a 18” bar on saws that size but others around here would know the balance on that saw better.
Actually, I might add a bit more. I believe I used a tube that fit in the chamber and the threads to give the repair a better feel. I let the chamber side set up good before assembly into the case. It was an epoxy on the chamber side and a two part tank sealer on the saw side.
Think that is it….
Honestly, I would think the aluminum would be fine if you were keeping the gaskets and not milling on hot days.
Wish I could help with finding phenolic. We had it lying around the shop with no idea where we got it. Those spacers you made look great.
Does anyone else find it odd that everyone jumped on a 562xp for $200 when this sexy beast is here? I mean, I would have at least $50 in plastic dye to make that 562 presentable for use in public.
And it says champ on the sticker!
Love it
200t is open port I believe. Lots of top RPM. 2139t is closed port and has more torque. I think timing matters more. Port style has an effect on efficiency of flow, but isn’t the full answer. Builders can get good results from large transfers and small, depends on the reset of the build.
Finally got to try mine out today. I personally think the shape of the burr is perfect for transfers and the size and angles work great. If a round burr is required, I did see some with the proper latch on eBay. I will be using the egg shape more often from now on.
I did have the head loosen...
I have two of these saws and love them. That looks like a runner to me.
My opinion is $450 PHO.
$600 is a pretty clean saw with no corrosion and pretty plastics.
$800-$1000 for like new or ported by a pro.
But everyone is different on how they view their stuff. Cylinders aren’t too...
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