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Truck's electric window

Discussion in 'Off Topic Area' started by livemusic, Jan 14, 2020 at 11:52 AM.

  1. livemusic

    livemusic Super OPE Member

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    Just curious... why would an electric window operate slowly in cold weather? To me, this might signal that the motor is going out but it doesn't do it as bad in warmer temps. Below freezing, it's slow to move.

    FWIW, I have replaced three out of four of my window motors in my 2008 Nissan Titan, in years 5-9 years of age. Not a cheap repair. Been awhile, think was about $350 repair by a local mechanic.
     
  2. Stem

    Stem Professional Cup Stacker

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    could be the window seals shrinking. I spray the door & window seals with silicone spray. helps keep the track in the window seal lubed & keeps the doors from freezing shut in the winter.
     
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  3. Intoxsawcated

    Intoxsawcated Super OPE Member

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    What kind of person uses their winders in cold weather?

    Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
     
  4. Steve

    Steve Excellence!

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    Dont act like you have never farted in your truck! :D
     
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  5. Xr650jkallen

    Xr650jkallen Super OPE Member

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    Most of the newer vehicles use a motor driven cable to move the window regulator. The cable gets stiff and the grease the manufacturer uses in them seems to not like cold weather. The last one I replaced, I cleaned the OEM lube out of the cable and then lubed it with a dry silicone lubricant. Seems to last and work alot better.
     
  6. Dustin4185

    Dustin4185 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    This is usually the reason. Also, direct drive motors have grease in the gear box as well.
     
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  7. S Sidwell

    S Sidwell Pinnacle OPE Member

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    May not hurt to check the connection at the motor and door switch. If you have any dielectric grease made for electrical terminals, won't hurt to put a dab into the connection at the motor. I've seen strange things happen on cars and trucks in the winter time, same as the summer in 98°F heat. Gets even hotter than that inside of them. GM calls it fretting of the terminals, we call it corrosion and poor terminal tension.

    Steve on Tapatalk
     
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  8. S Sidwell

    S Sidwell Pinnacle OPE Member

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    I just got a price on two window regulators on a caddy at the dealership today, almost $600.00 apiece plus half hour to install each one at $120 an hour labor rate.

    Steve on Tapatalk
     
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  9. livemusic

    livemusic Super OPE Member

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    A window regulator... does it include a motor? Cadillac parts are nuts, a battery for a relative's car several years ago was crazy high.
     
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  10. Xr650jkallen

    Xr650jkallen Super OPE Member

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    I'd bet the window motor/ regulator assembly for a same year model tahoe/Yukon would work on an Escalade. Should be cheaper too.
     
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  11. huskihl

    huskihl Sausage Fingers Forever

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    I’ve replaced a dozen or so in my 2002 Silverado. It took me a while to realize that I needed to add more grease to the cables and slides to get them to last in the salt up here. So I don’t think it’s an excess of grease, because I grab a handful and completely wipe everything down before I install them. It could be that the rails aren’t quite lined up, so that the window is binding as it goes up. But it could also be corrosion in the motor or the gears that pull the cable.
     
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  12. huskihl

    huskihl Sausage Fingers Forever

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    I believe that also. My boy had a Seville and the regulators were I think $600 each. I found a replacement made for a different vehicle and swapped it in
     
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  13. legdelimber

    legdelimber Well-Known OPE Member

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    IF you have anyone who grabs the window or its frame to swing the door open or closed
    (for some strange reason a lot of people will shove the window to close the door)
    and that tends to slowly bend the frame out alignment with the track down inside of the door body.
    That big, heavy, frameless glass in those 1970's era GM two door sedans were a pain as people really seemed to love grabbing them instead of the (also heavy) door body.
    Now ad a little road grime into that fiber lined track (inside of the door) and you got to see some nicely hung up windows on occasion.

    Oh and ditto on the dried out hardened grease in things.
    Power or manual, that and a good track cleaning improved most issues.
    But it's been a couple of decades since I've had a door apart, so assembly/manufacturing methods have likely changed a fair bit by now.

    Oh . And if you go to drive-through windows? Don't leave the window glass above the door body while you're there.
    It's really easy to forget and brace against the top of the glass and that usually puts pressure on one side of the glass and tries to push it crooked in relation to the track and regulator.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2020 at 2:55 AM
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