Tightening Bar Nuts ~ How tight?

[angelo c]

Already!?

Happened to me on like my third tank through my 395.

are you suggesting that a BOLT came loose on a "Husky"

BLASPHEMOR !!!!

 

[Wood Doctor]

Simple procedure that I follow: tighten bar nuts thumb tight as best as I can and then tighten them another half turn with a wrench (usually a scrench) and no more than a full turn because that's overkill.

 

[TreeLife]

Already!?

Happened to me on like my third tank through my 395.

No. I havent had any issues with mine yet, in gonna put some fuel thru it tomorrow.

 

[Ryan Browne]

No. I havent had any issues with mine yet, in gonna put some fuel thru it tomorrow.

Right on, enjoy!

 

[fearofpavement]

A good indication of required torque is the Stihl system with the tool less chain adjuster. They only have one stud and the handle is a couple inches across and it tightens the bar enough for it not to move. In my experience most people put their bar nuts far tighter than required. So, tighter than you could put it with a nut driver handle but don't reef on that scrench. Just isn't needed.

 

[Spladle160]

I lost a bar nut on my 2nd or 3rd tank on my 661. I ordered half a dozen and filled the threads with mediun strength loctite and let it dry. I don't have to over torque them and they don't run away. And I have spares ready to roll if they do.

 

[DunderCutting]

I lost a bar nut on my 2nd or 3rd tank on my 661. I ordered half a dozen and filled the threads with mediun strength loctite and let it dry. I don't have to over torque them and they don't run away. And I have spares ready to roll if they do.

Yours aren't captive nuts like on mine??

 

[PA Plumber]

A good indication of required torque is the Stihl system with the tool less chain adjuster. They only have one stud and the handle is a couple inches across and it tightens the bar enough for it not to move. In my experience most people put their bar nuts far tighter than required. So, tighter than you could put it with a nut driver handle but don't reef on that scrench. Just isn't needed.

Good Point.
I noticed most of the tooless set-ups on are saws with smaller chain and shorter bars.
Still, I'm guessing I may be putting a little too much grunt into it.
Going to back off just a tad and see how it goes.

 

[066 redeye]

Don't you do them up till something lets go then back off 1/8 turn?

 

[Dustin4185]

Yours aren't captive nuts like on mine??

My thoughts exactly, but remembered I used a R model with the bigger clutch cover and it may have had regular nuts as well. ‍

 

[ucm931]

Yours aren't captive nuts like on mine??

That's what happens when you get clipped.......

 

[CR888]

I've found homeowners are the best at tightening bar nuts. As their saw usually only has one nut, they really make sure it doesn't come loose.

 

[Wilhelm]

As the nuts turn while contacting the clutch cover they will eat through the paint and eventually little by little eat away at the cover, so yes some wear is normal.

I use my OEM Dolmar PS-6400 scrench and turn the nuts hand tight.

When I use my 36" B&C setup I apply a little extra force, but still one hand and the scrench.

I have a torque socket wrench, I guess I could check how much torque I get with the scrench.

 

[Michael Rupley]

I like to tighten with my scrench and then give it a good strike with a four pound double jack! Never comes loose but sometimes bends the scrench. LOL

 

[dmb2613]

This is a feel thing no way to tell someone else how tight to get them on a Stihl anyway, I think on a huskie you need to batter the threads first lol

 

[old guy]

They gotta be tight enough so when you cut with the top of the bar it doesn't push the bar down thereby loosening the chain. I reef on them suckers,

 

[Spladle160]

Yours aren't captive nuts like on mine??

Nope, if I remember correctly they had issues with clutch covers cracking and went away from the captive nuts, that or it's because it's an R wrap model.

 

[DCP123]

Normal to wear. Too tight on bar nuts = bad... you can strip them or pull the studs. Too loose on bar nuts = bad... you risk breaking the chain tensioner when the saw kicks back or bore cutting.

Over the last couple of weeks I've learned I haven't been tightening them enough.

I used to worry about damaging the cover, But I've been trying to cut up a big tangle of oak trees that got smashed when huge pine fell on them. A lot of what I'm cutting is under compression and it's pretty easy to get a bar pinched. I'm sure a pro could avoid it, but it's happened to me several times. I bent the crap out of two tensioning screws, so now I'm on team torque. I'm tightening the nuts a heck of a lot harder. Part of the problem is that I'm using longer bars (28" and 36") than I'm used to (14" to 20").r

 

[pbillyi69]

i put them on finger tight then use the shortest scrench that i have so i can spin it freely until its tight then just a little more. someone else nailed it. if you make them too tight when it expands from the heat they will be way too tight. when the saw is hot i just snug them up. they will be loose when it cools off though.

 

[Wood Doctor]

One of the most common repairs I have had to make for sawyers is stripped out bar stud threads caused by overtightening the bar nuts. This is especially true on top handle saws.