DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[Wilhelm]

As someone already said, this is a Black & White special series specimen.
The Black & White series comprised of models 105, 108, 110 and 112. The series was produced for only a short
period of time in 1986 for a marketing campaign together with scottisch Whiskey brand "Black & White".

The only model having a plastic tank was the 110. All 112 had metal tanks.

Here are some fotos of all four Black & White models:
View attachment 346071

View attachment 346073

View attachment 346070

View attachment 346072

105 & 108

 

[av8or3]

As someone already said, this is a Black & White special series specimen.
The Black & White series comprised of models 105, 108, 110 and 112. The series was produced for only a short
period of time in 1986 for a marketing campaign together with scottisch Whiskey brand "Black & White".

The only model having a plastic tank was the 110. All 112 had metal tanks.

Here are some fotos of all four Black & White models:
View attachment 346071

View attachment 346073

View attachment 346070

View attachment 346072

Wow! I will probably keep it then. Probably won’t see another. Ever…

 

[av8or3]

How do you fellows set the points on the little 112. There is not an opening in the flywheel that you can use. I thought it could be done using the cam from a flywheel. But you’d have to destroy a flywheel to get the cam out of it.

 

[Shane¹]

How do you fellows set the points on the little 112. There is not an opening in the flywheel that you can use. I thought it could be done using the cam from a flywheel. But you’d have to destroy a flywheel to get the cam out of it.

I don't know how to set the points but I do believe you can just bolt on the 6800 style coil and it should bypass the points and you will be good to go with electronic ignition. Just a thought maybe you could swap one from one of your other saws and make sure before you ordered one

 

[old_sir_henry]

How do you fellows set the points on the little 112

the official procedure requires an "adjustment cam", which is just the center part of the flywheel including
the cam but without the flywheel. Can be made by cannibalizing a flywheel.
I prefer replacing the points by chip, though.
Didn't try the 6800 coil replacement since these things are in short supply as well

 

[av8or3]

the official procedure requires an "adjustment cam", which is just the center part of the flywheel including
the cam but without the flywheel. Can be made by cannibalizing a flywheel.
I prefer replacing the points by chip, though.
Didn't try the 6800 coil replacement since these things are in short supply as well

Bingo! I thought so. I ordered a $25 “adjustment cam” from flea bay. I like points! Call me old…

 

[heimannm]

You're old...I like points as well. I can diagnose each individual component and know that everything is good.

Mark

 

[Sagebrush33]

What are points?








LOL I'm old enough to know better but, the last set I adjusted were in a Chevy V8 back in the 80s.
Been awhile.

 

[av8or3]

I like them only because I’m familiar (and have been since the late 60’s) and even now I replace them in aircraft magnetos fairly regularly. It’s been my experience that you can run 5-6 hundred hours between inspections if set up properly. Sometimes I replace points in these mags during a 500 hr inspection because “It’d be hard to explain why we didn’t.” even tho they look perfectly fine. Anyway, I like points!

 

[heimannm]

"LOL I'm old enough to know better but, the last set I adjusted were in a Chevy V8 back in the 80s."

Window in the distributor cap and adjust on the run with a hex key and a dwell meter?

Mark

 

[av8or3]

I grew up on Fords and you had to pop the dist cap to adjust the points. When I got to adjust my first GM as you described I thought it was wonderful. Because it was! I think we were looking for 30 degrees of dwell.

 

[Sagebrush33]

And during those 80s, many kids were having us convert their ignitions to HEI. It amazed me that they were incapable of that feat too. The hard core racers had us popping in an MSD distributor with a 6al box for the street racers. The 1/4 mile boys were getting 7al2 boxes.

 

[Fishnuts2]

You're old...I like points as well. I can diagnose each individual component and know that everything is good.

Mark

I finally gave up on the CD ignition on my CT and figured a flywheel and points plate from a CX would fit and it did. Starts easy, runs strong, and no intermittent misses.
If the points are gapped and clean, you'll usually get things running. Mark has it right!

 

[av8or3]

Awlright! My new super duper point adjustment tool for the 112 came in.

 

[av8or3]

This is a shame. Not sure if the damage was a wrist pin coming apart or if a screwdriver found it’s way in there while it was being pulled, or something. The plating is chipped above the deepest dent otherwise I might try and grind this stuff out. I’d have to bevel quite a bit to get to the edge of the plating I think. The piston is marked similar but useable. And the saw came to me with no piston ring in it. Makes me think some person was maybe “learning” on this and decided to bag it. Was advertised as being in good shape. The wrist pin bearing that came in it was intact . And I was thinking(coffee kicking in)If the wrist pin bearing came apart wouldn’t the damage be on the down stroke, or bottom of the port and piston?

 

[av8or3]

On the bright side , I got the points set in it and it makes fire!

 

[Shane¹]

This is a shame. Not sure if the damage was a wrist pin coming apart or if a screwdriver found it’s way in there while it was being pulled, or something. The plating is chipped above the deepest dent otherwise I might try and grind this stuff out. I’d have to bevel quite a bit to get to the edge of the plating I think. The piston is marked similar but useable. And the saw came to me with no piston ring in it. Makes me think some person was maybe “learning” on this and decided to bag it. Was advertised as being in good shape. The wrist pin bearing that came in it was intact . And I was thinking(coffee kicking in)If the wrist pin bearing came apart wouldn’t the damage be on the down stroke, or bottom of the port and piston? View attachment 346578View attachment 346579View attachment 346580

I am not sure what caused that chip I had a 120 one that looked just like that I think it was from carbon building up then something caught it and chipped the chrome. I would grind that out and run it.

 

[old_sir_henry]

This doesn't look like a wrist pin coming out. If it were, it'd rather looked like this:

 

[old_sir_henry]

Here is my DOLMAR 122S from mid 1970s which I finished cleaning up this weekend.
A fine looking and very well preserved chainsaw with an advanced design compared to the contemporary
DOLMAR CA and CC:

 

[Fishnuts2]

You must have a huge ultra-sonic cleaner to get your equipment looking so like brand new!
Thanks for sharing