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Dream

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On a solid state ignition coil it might be easier too open up the holes in the lamination and tweak the timing that way.
I have had a few that I bought that the coil was loose for who knows how long and the holes were worn and allowed for additional timing up and down.
Just a pipe dream thought, but what if you did the machinework and fab to make an adjustable coil mount plate on a solid state ignition saw, then made a linkage to the throttle or an impulse port to make an automatic spark advance?
I know, if it was a good idea, they would have already done it. Do the autotune/mtronic saws change ignition timing, or just fuel delivery?
 

Dream

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Bigmac

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Just a pipe dream thought, but what if you did the machinework and fab to make an adjustable coil mount plate on a solid state ignition saw, then made a linkage to the throttle or an impulse port to make an automatic spark advance?
I know, if it was a good idea, they would have already done it. Do the autotune/mtronic saws change ignition timing, or just fuel delivery?
The only real benefit would be easier starting. I the 461 has an advance curve and several other modern saws do too, and it’s only for starting The modern high performance ignitions are cdi, and the ignition curve would surprise you, they have around6- 10°ish for starting then advance the ignition to between 18-27° and hold that tell about 5000 rpm and then start retarding, to under 10° by 10,000 rpm, that’s a 250 two stroke.
Here is some cr250 timing curvesA49B9776-B369-4C56-B387-A086A474F959.jpeg
 

heimannm

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Even the older McCulloch electronic ignition coils had a built in advance function. They did not have the same low RPM cut out like most Stihl, but you could actually see the spark advancing as I was speeding up the drill in this exercise.

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Mark
 

PogoInTheWoods

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I do like to be somewhat thorough in my clean up of these projects before I move them over.
Is that a Vacula air nozzle sitting by the putty knife? I have one that's all black. Best air nozzle out there. Wouldn't be without one.
 

Dream

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So I need a little help.
In all my years, I have never replaced a recoil rope on a 10 series Mac. There seems to be a small pin or something that holds the end of the rope. It wiggles back and forth when I poke it with a screwdriver, but I dont know what it needs to do to release the rope. Dont want to break anything.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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It simply secures the rope to the channel in the pulley. Should be able to remove it with needle nosed pliers or forceps. Don't lose it!
 

Al Smith

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About this spark advance .Older guy ,Jim was telling me about modified 70 cc Sachs engines for use powering a multi engine giant scale RC model of a WW2 bomber .Those engines used basically a retard so they would start easily .Once running shifted back to advance .Because of the size of the propellers those engines were tuned for the 7-8000 RPM range which provided the best torque so they would not stall out on a steep climb .
 

Dream

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It simply secures the rope to the channel in the pulley. Should be able to remove it with needle nosed pliers or forceps. Don't lose it!

Thanks Poge!
Just one more. Would it be a good idea to put a dab of grease in the recoil spring well? Seemed like it had some in there when I took it apart.
 

Bigmac

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Finally got the itch to tear into my sp80. Did a pressure/vac test and....A15A78E2-4E08-4837-BBCF-85D20B676AA3.jpegSo it’s going to need seals

the cylinder and piston are in great condition!92757C7A-89B0-49BD-B8E6-F80583DEFEE6.jpegE4DA814B-3B0F-4F7E-AF9D-2BCE053D0E64.jpeg 04138917-501E-4ED7-B782-B6AB760F66A3.jpeg57893825-F551-414F-BB04-081F397C362F.jpeg the exhaust port had a large ridge half way into the port, so I ground that out, the exhaust port had a lot of casting flaws in the port, probably why it was a replacement cylinder.

Also going to replace the rings and intake boot, they look fine but I don’t want to worry about anything.
 

Al Smith

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In looking at some of these pictures I realized I have a McCulloch hand held blower in the shed .I had forgotten all about it . I wonder what's wrong with it,I'm certain it ran at one time .:D
 

heimannm

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I don't remember the brand on the air nozzle but is sure is convenient. Only problem is the handle works so easily I sometimes shoot myself in the face when I each up to pull it down from the spring loaded recoil spool right over my work bench.

Mark
 

fossil

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I don't remember the brand on the air nozzle but is sure is convenient. Only problem is the handle works so easily I sometimes shoot myself in the face when I each up to pull it down from the spring loaded recoil spool right over my work bench.

Mark

Much better than doing that with a paint gun, but the reminder would last indefinitely
 

heimannm

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Reminds me of an experience I had when I was working for a company during my high school/early college days. We were painting some angle iron frames using an electric airless spray gun (think Wagner Power Painter) with black oil base enamel paint. I was threading the 1 quart cup back on the gun when it slipped from my grip and fell very straight to the ground landing quite squarely causing the contents to shoot directly back straight up. Of course I was watching the cup drop so I was properly positioned to receive the contents when they reached my face...I had to wash several time with toluene which was rather unpleasant but as a positive note, I did not need to use any makeup to achieve the desired racoon like appearance.

Mark
 

Bigmac

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Hi guys new to this thread. Just scored a Super 55 from my uncle. It's been sitting forever and I don't know how I should proceed with it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.View attachment 241511 View attachment 241512
I always start by pulling the muffler, do a visual inspection,, pull the spark plug. Then flush out the motor, mix or marvel oil. I put it in the spark plug and exhaust. Let it sit for a while then try to roll it over. After that put a bunch down the carb and pull that through the system, wind mill it tell it’s cleared out, let it sit and check for spark and compression. I usually pull the carb and go through it. Check the fuel line and filter, flush the tank, and clean the whole saw, if it checks out go for trying to start it, you could do a pressure/vac test too, it all depends what you want to do with it! You can go as far as you want!
 

41FanForLife

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I always start by pulling the muffler, do a visual inspection,, pull the spark plug. Then flush out the motor, mix or marvel oil. I put it in the spark plug and exhaust. Let it sit for a while then try to roll it over. After that put a bunch down the carb and pull that through the system, wind mill it tell it’s cleared out, let it sit and check for spark and compression. I usually pull the carb and go through it. Check the fuel line and filter, flush the tank, and clean the whole saw, if it checks out go for trying to start it, you could do a pressure/vac test too, it all depends what you want to do with it! You can go as far as you want!
Thank you . I will start looking into it when I get back home Friday. Gonna kill me to know it's sitting there and I can't mess with it cause of working out of state. Updates and more questions to follow.
 

Al Smith

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You might be surprised ,it might fire right up .McCulloch built those things to run forever and some have. I'm pretty sure I have the IPL on micro fiche but not certain if I have it on paper or the Mc Bob CD .Seals and bearings are all SAE spec size that won't be a problem .More that likely the rings are okay .They might be a little tight but a good soaking plus some run time will cure that problem .
 
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