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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Al Smith

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Old story .Mc Bob RIP would PM me on what ever web forum it was and ask me to track down Mc parts which I usually could However if somebody asked in an open forum he'd get a case of the grumpys if I told them .Solved all that just stopped finding parts for him .:)
 

heimannm

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It is not absolutely necessary to have the two seals on the FW side, and the actual arrangement for the two seals is in doubt as anyone who has disassembled three saws will have found them both in both out, and one each way...

The second seal is very thin (narrow) and NLA from the normal bearing suppliers.

Mark
 

Al Smith

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I've only had one down to the bones and that was a long time time ago .It was the one I made the iron cylinder liner for .At that time I got all the seals ,rings and whatever I needed from Mike Acres .It's Consolidated Equipment Burnaby BC .I'm not sure if you can find Mike in but he's about the only one who knows anything about McCulloch parts .
 

fossil

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Thank you for the help. I'm sure others will benefit from this as well.

The PTO side MAC PN 104432 is 17X35X7 .
CR 6640 was a bare metal case seal that size but I believe it's been discontinued

I have a new 57898 seal for the FW side but I'll be darned if I can locate it. The shaft os 17mm and the case bore can be measured when you pull it the crankcase cover off. I think it's 30 mm bore but for some reason I have 32mm written down so check that one.


The outer seal 57897 which I believe was to keep oil out of the points box is a tough one to find.

I wouldn't be concerned with single lip seals as many of the older saws came with them. The outer lip is not a sealing lip but is a dust seal for abrasive environments. All the sealing is done by the inner lip.

Rubber coated seals were specifically produced for applications where the case is aluminum, magnesium or some other soft metal.

Almost all metric seals have rubber coated cases and work very well.

Let us know what you end up using
 

p61 western

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The PTO side MAC PN 104432 is 17X35X7 .
CR 6640 was a bare metal case seal that size but I believe it's been discontinued

I have a new 57898 seal for the FW side but I'll be darned if I can locate it. The shaft os 17mm and the case bore can be measured when you pull it the crankcase cover off. I think it's 30 mm bore but for some reason I have 32mm written down so check that one.


The outer seal 57897 which I believe was to keep oil out of the points box is a tough one to find.

I wouldn't be concerned with single lip seals as many of the older saws came with them. The outer lip is not a sealing lip but is a dust seal for abrasive environments. All the sealing is done by the inner lip.

Rubber coated seals were specifically produced for applications where the case is aluminum, magnesium or some other soft metal.

Almost all metric seals have rubber coated cases and work very well.

Let us know what you end up using
Thank you Tim. I'm just getting parts ready for when the saw shows up. Your always good on the seal cross reference, so I figured you would chime in. How is your 125 doing?
 

fossil

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Thank you Tim. I'm just getting parts ready for when the saw shows up. Your always good on the seal cross reference, so I figured you would chime in. How is your 125 doing?

Leaky tank so I bought some Red Kote. Waiting for it to warm up a bit as I'm reluctant to do it having it drying in the basement with a gas water heater down there. I don't want to get in the news as someone launched into space.

I bought a new 36" Oregon bar and chisel chain for it because I have so many trees that big to cut with it LOL.

Runs like a top and has huge power. A good saw not to stand directly behind if you value your family jewels.

Not much work needed on it. A broken front AV mount, a PTO side seal as it was pounded in without building up the step on the crankshaft and a welch plug to replace the one missing in the cylinder. Strangely, two other collectors had the same welch plug missing.

I made an H&S replica spike for it

It's nice to work on a huge saw as there's so much space around what needs working on. My fingers are down on dexterity from what they were 5 years ago.

They are very impressive units especially considering the vintage.

125 36 bar.JPG Spike 1.JPG
 

hseII

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Leaky tank so I bought some Red Kote. Waiting for it to warm up a bit as I'm reluctant to do it having it drying in the basement with a gas water heater down there. I don't want to get in the news as someone launched into space.

I bought a new 36" Oregon bar and chisel chain for it because I have so many trees that big to cut with it LOL.

Runs like a top and has huge power. A good saw not to stand directly behind if you value your family jewels.

Not much work needed on it. A broken front AV mount, a PTO side seal as it was pounded in without building up the step on the crankshaft and a welch plug to replace the one missing in the cylinder. Strangely, two other collectors had the same welch plug missing.

I made an H&S replica spike for it

It's nice to work on a huge saw as there's so much space around what needs working on. My fingers are down on dexterity from what they were 5 years ago.

They are very impressive units especially considering the vintage.

View attachment 170304 View attachment 170305

That’s Amazing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

p61 western

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Leaky tank so I bought some Red Kote. Waiting for it to warm up a bit as I'm reluctant to do it having it drying in the basement with a gas water heater down there. I don't want to get in the news as someone launched into space.

I bought a new 36" Oregon bar and chisel chain for it because I have so many trees that big to cut with it LOL.

Runs like a top and has huge power. A good saw not to stand directly behind if you value your family jewels.

Not much work needed on it. A broken front AV mount, a PTO side seal as it was pounded in without building up the step on the crankshaft and a welch plug to replace the one missing in the cylinder. Strangely, two other collectors had the same welch plug missing.

I made an H&S replica spike for it

It's nice to work on a huge saw as there's so much space around what needs working on. My fingers are down on dexterity from what they were 5 years ago.

They are very impressive units especially considering the vintage.

View attachment 170304 View attachment 170305
That's a real nice looking saw. Yeah we don't want to see you on the news, so the Red Kote should wait lol. It sounds like it's a good idea to check the welch plugs. I'm sure you'll find something to cut with it lol.
 

Al Smith

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Well good hope it works out .Good info if they do .From the kart forums it appears the same set up was used on the MC 100 kart engine but with another number for the PTO side .I've got to start taking notes on this stuff ,my memory is as short as --well never mind .
 

p61 western

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Well good hope it works out .Good info if they do .From the kart forums it appears the same set up was used on the MC 100 kart engine but with another number for the PTO side .I've got to start taking notes on this stuff ,my memory is as short as --well never mind .
Well I ordered those two you left the link to, so hopefully it works out lol.
 

Al Smith

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Seals and their applications can be a study of their own .If you've never seen the drawings of lip configurations you can't believe how many types there are .Then you get into the material used and it really gets confusing .On chainsaws it's pretty easy because most are Buna-N .But other applications such as synthetic machine coolant will destroy same ,been there and done that on an industrial application .Believe it or not ,me an electrician figured that out after it slipped right past the mechanical engineers trying to figure out the high failure rates .I didn't get lucky I just know how to read .
 

Al Smith

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Most of the time you can find this stuff on flea bay less expensive but not always .Some like the OEM seal for a Stihl 042/048 is special thing controlled by Stihl and if you find one,key word if ,you are going to pay dearly for .I've got the same thing going on right now for a rebuild of a Mac 1000/P100 Partner .I'm a bull headed SOB and I won't pay those prices .40 bucks for an $8 seal indeed ,balderdash .
 

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Ok, so I posted earlier about the mini mac 25 I found. Found a mac 110 today. Looks like the recoil pulley and oil pump parts I need may interchange, but someone let me know if I'm off about that.
The 110 also has a Zama carb that has a normal fuel inlet and fuel line to the tank plug. Was hoping I could swap carbs.
Acres site says the 110 is either 32 or 34 ccs, while the 25 is only 29.
I've been told before not to go monkeying with carbs, but its tempting to try. Any words of wisdom?
 

Dream

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Heres a pic of my PM1010S and PM700.
The 1010 came from the electric co-op my dad retired from. He got a couple of them when they switched to the orange ones. I found the 700 at a local shop. Just had a new kit put in the carb, and the PO never came back for it. I thought the 1010s were badazz, but that 700 has some grunt!0311192110a_HDR.jpg 0311192127_HDR.jpg 0311192125a_HDR.jpg
 
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