High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Revamping the 461

Rich Fife

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As mentioned in another post, I'm offloading my spare saws... this 461 is getting a new oem cylinder and piston. Then it'll be sent to Michigan. The Stens cylinder and HWY piston will go on the shelf, unless someone wants them.
 

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Rich Fife

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1st step, break it down, install the OEM cylinder/pistons and get the numbers.
 

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Rich Fife

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On this cylinder, the exhaust port and x-fers are a bit narrower than the other cylinders that I worked on. So needless to say, This Cylinder will need a bit of material removed...

I removed .055" from the base and mapped-out the lower transfer to match the trenched case... next up is to remove .040" from the squish.

You can see the stock lower design compared to what it will be.
 

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Rich Fife

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The base and squish have been cut... the squish yields .025"... I went a little deeper with the cut... I mean, compression is our friend, right?
 

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Rich Fife

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I had a dyslexic moment with the colors... on the inlet, the black are the areas that will be addressed... the green, will be left alone... maybe roughed up slightly. Some people wonder why I port the intake that way... all that it does is direct the flow, removes a little chaos... it's the same theory as when Car race heads are ported with the tear drop leading to the vavle boss. Doing so, they actually get better flow numbers as the charge is better directed.
Looking at the intake from the bottom inside view, the green will be removed yielding a mouth-like shape intake. The horizontal line is the bottom of the piston when at TDC.
Not too much will be removed from the uppers on this go around as I want a bit more blow down... slight adjustments with the angles though.
Depending on how the saw runs, I might do some finger ports... time will tell.
 

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Rich Fife

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Nothing pretty or special.
 

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Rich Fife

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It's my opinion, the reason these saws make great power... is the shape of the passageways. Kinda like the cathedral port heads...
 

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Wonkydonkey

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I think your intake looks like what tin pony call his intake Micky Mouse ears,. ?

Btw
It will be good to see it eat some big hard wood ? 😉
 

Rich Fife

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Rich Fife

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You need thinner solder. Betcha squish tighter than you think.
I squished the larger solder and rotated the crank until It Barely touched the piston. My smaller solder measured the same. I'm confident it's .025" maybe .0245"... lol
 

Rich Fife

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It's back together, 210#... larger SS screen for the exhaust... I'll have to make a cover for the front. At the moment it's wide open.
Case is trenched with the lowers matched... this should make for a decent work saw. There's still room for finger ports, more intake and exhaust timing as we can drop the cylinder, we can still do a timing advance.... so needless to say, there's room for 'mo-powa'...
 

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drf256

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It's back together, 210#... larger SS screen for the exhaust... I'll have to make a cover for the front. At the moment it's wide open.
Case is trenched with the lowers matched... this should make for a decent work saw. There's still room for finger ports, more intake and exhaust timing, we can drop the cylinder still and we can do a timing advance.... so needless to say, there's room.for 'mo-powa'...
Just baffle behind the opening.
 

Rich Fife

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Just baffle behind the opening.
The exhaust has a piece of tubing with an internal taper that reaches back towards the exhaust port a little over 1-1/4"... I was going to machine a cap with a large through hole and then cut some circular screens for it.... 🤔 perhaps I should test this face plate to a stock one to see if I gain torque or lose it.... I dont care for chain speed/rpms... there's already enough... I want more grunt.
 

whitesnake

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Looks good! If anything you got a pretty mean sounding leaf blower!
 
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