one saw that can do 20" and 16" bar?

[Stump Shot]

Does the MT solenoid control itself, or is there a chip in the coil?

There's electronics, no doubt about that, doesn't an electrical trigger tell a coil when to fire in an electronic ignition? I don't think that makes it computerized, then again, I could be wrong and it's a very simple computer in an AT/MT saw. Either way the function is much the same as I see it, unless I'm taking an overly simplified view of the situation from diagnosis over the years. Somebody will be along to "school" me straight away I suspect.

 

[drf256]

There's electronics, no doubt about that, doesn't an electrical trigger tell a coil when to fire in an electronic ignition? I don't think that makes it computerized, then again, I could be wrong and it's a very simple computer in an AT/MT saw. Either way the function is much the same as I see it, unless I'm taking an overly simplified view of the situation from diagnosis over the years. Somebody will be along to "school" me straight away I suspect.

IDK for certain, but pretty sure there is a microchip embedded in the coil that senses temp and rpm and adjusts the solenoid.

Guess it’s semantics. I am not sure what constitutes a microprocessor vs a complex electronic circuit. I really don’t care either, was never the point of my response to the OP.

I always prefer the AT saws until they stop working. Then it’s a total mess. The Husky system is nice because they offer an interface anyone can afford and use with it. The MT requires that MDG gizmo which most of us would never buy. But the simplicity of the Stihl MT system is its beauty. It’s usually not the MT itself that’s the issue with the saws, but swapping out the solenoid generally rules out the MT as the issue.

 

[Czed]

I have an 18" poulan p.o.s. currently, considering updating to a husqvarna saw.
for what I use the saw for, and however frequently or infrequently, I think I'd like to have one good reliable saw capable of a 16" bar and a 20" bar.
Is such a thing possible, if so which make/model ?

What did you buy?

 

[Stump Shot]

IDK for certain, but pretty sure there is a microchip embedded in the coil that senses temp and rpm and adjusts the solenoid.

Guess it’s semantics. I am not sure what constitutes a microprocessor vs a complex electronic circuit. I really don’t care either, was never the point of my response to the OP.

I always prefer the AT saws until they stop working. Then it’s a total mess. The Husky system is nice because they offer an interface anyone can afford and use with it. The MT requires that MDG gizmo which most of us would never buy. But the simplicity of the Stihl MT system is its beauty. It’s usually not the MT itself that’s the issue with the saws, but swapping out the solenoid generally rules out the MT as the issue.

So far, I've yet to see where the AT or MT failed to adjust the carburetor. Which is really its only job. (Yes, later versions did that job better) On a Husqvarna spark failure, a new coil of the same part number will work simply by changing it. So, for say a 572xp that has yet to see an update, component replacement is cake. An aged 562xp is going to be a horse of another color. I had a fairly new MS201tc that had no spark and changed the coil (three times) the carburetor, flywheel and wiring harness, all to no effect. Was told repeatedly that it didn't need flashing of any kind. Finally, after numerous attempts were made, it was turned into a part saw for the rest of the fleet, which wound up working out well, getting more than its money's worth out of it, but it still bothered me to no end, wondering what the issue was. This being a rare case as most are repaired with a simple solenoid and fuel filter change and maybe a spark screen cleaning. Husqvarna on the other hand had mechanical issues that the "electronics" got blamed for by a host of owners, seemingly oblivious to the real issue at hand. This even has been worked out to build newer models better, so at least all the teething pains the 562 and 550 gave us were not gone through in vain. As well as the folks that heeded the warning to keep a sharp chain, their machines are plugging away year after year without problems. I've seen stacks of junk crankcases and cylinders from the folks that did not.

 

[buckin-wood]

... The Husky system is nice because they offer an interface anyone can afford and use with it. The MT requires that MDG gizmo which most of us would never buy. But the simplicity of the Stihl MT system is its beauty. It’s usually not the MT itself that’s the issue with the saws, but swapping out the solenoid generally rules out the MT as the issue.

I thought tapping into the husqvarna auto tune bits required dealer access? Somewhere I've seen a part number for the interface cabling, but I'm pretty sure it still requires software available only to dealers.

 

[Stump Shot]

I thought tapping into the husqvarna auto tune bits required dealer access? Somewhere I've seen a part number for the interface cabling, but I'm pretty sure it still requires software available only to dealers.

Allegedly, the recent loss by John Deere in a court case for the right to repair has made the precedent for all to supply their customers with tools and information necessary to repair one's own equipment. I have not yet tried this to confirm or deny this as a fact though.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Well, McDonald's sells more hamburgers than anyone else. That doesn't mean they are the best, just good advertising and easy availability.

Agreed. I personally preferred the more expensive and professional Stihl 028 AV that was available along with the Farm Boss. I have no idea why the 028 was discontinued. I sold three of these after refurbishing them and all the owners who bought one are still using them. I still have my favorite of the bunch that I owned and should have used it today. The 026 PRO and 260 PRO also could pull anywhere from a 16" to a 20" bar.

 

[r7000]

What did you buy?

so i bought a Echo CS-310, 16". $229. After handling a CS590 it was just too much weight for what I cut. Realistically I don't need more than a .325 or 3/8 low profile chain for the size stuff I cut 90% of the time, and what larger stuff I do cut it'll take me what 20 seconds longer for a handful of times.

and i was also given an old MS 251, after I bought the cs310, the MS251 runs like a monster lot of compression.

so thanks for all the remarks, it was a help in figuring out what to go look at and to make a decision go big or small.