K095 oil hole

[Stevetheboatguy]

So this one has me puzzled. Why does the k095 mount seem to plug or clog more often than the other mounts?

This is the oil hole on my 350 after a tank of fuel cutting dry elm.




Now this has been bugging me for a while. My other k095 saws seem to do this too. Just not as much as this one. I'm curious if it's because this one is .325 and the others are .375. But now my lowly 50cc poulan has a gb bar with .325 and it doesn't have this issue. So I'm puzzled.

I had this one apart a while ago and it has a full 455/460 oil pump/drive and rim clutch setup. It oils like crazy for the first little while then it drops off as the oil port closes up. Have tried several different brand bars and they all close up. Some faster then other's.

I did try to slightly slot the oil hole on this oregon bar, but it's going to be a few days before I can run it again.

Has anyone else had this issue?


Steven

 

[NSEric]

I have the newer speed cut and versa cut ko95 mount bars on my saws, they have smaller slotted oil holes and don't seam to plug up like the older bars with round oil holes did.

 

[beaglebriar]

Tsumura hasn't been a problem. I don't really have an issue with any of them. Think I have six k095 saws.

 

[Terry Syd]

Never ran into the problem. However, from a physics point of view, if the sawdust is backing up in the hole, perhaps angling the inside of the hole towards the front of the bar may help. You might try a bit of small Dremel work to take the 90 degree angle off the hole and make the inside more like 45 degrees towards the front. The sloped angle may help the sawdust and oil to flow towards the tip as it can't 'catch' on the edge of the hole.

 

[RI Chevy]

I noticed the same problem. My Tsumura seemed to not iil as good as a Husqvarna branded Oregon bar. My bars are in .050.
I noticed my Stihl bars in .063 oil extremely well... Not sure if the rail slot size has anything to do with that. I religiously clean the bar rails at every sharpening.
But my K095 bars are stingy with oil. Both with Husqvarna and Dolmar saws.

 

[huskyboy]

I noticed the same problem. My Tsumura seemed to not iil as good as a Husqvarna branded Oregon bar. My bars are in .050.
I noticed my Stihl bars in .063 oil extremely well... Not sure if the rail slot size has anything to do with that. I religiously clean the bar rails at every sharpening.
But my K095 bars are stingy with oil. Both with Husqvarna and Dolmar saws.

.063 oils better, especially on longer bars. It can help saws with a stingy oiler.

 

[Master Bud II]

I have a 20" 3/8 x .050 Oregon bar on My 262xp, and I Don't Believe that it's ever clogged up on Me. I usually give it a good cleaning every 2 to 3 chain swaps ( lots of garbage, but still oiling )

 

[Wolverine]

I changed my cutting technique long ago and it helped with this issue. So if I have a large log laying on the ground and can’t get completely through, I now don’t let the chain stop in the cut. I keep it spinning until the bar is pulled completely out. I don’t keep it wfo, just partial throttle. I was noticing the bar would get packed with dust when I’d let it stop, sometimes quite a lot. Most of my ko95’s oiling holes got angled or opened up a little too. Hasn’t been an issue since.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Ok so did some experimenting. Took a 350 and a 357 and a bunch of bars out. And here is what I found. On the 350 all the bars with the round hole (18" .325 oregon, 20" 3/8 woodland pro, 18" 3/8 husky branded laminate, 16" 3/8 no name mystery bar) plug solid very quickly. Same bars on the 357 and they dont clog as fast but still plug up. Tried the only three small mount bars I have with the angled oil hole. (16" 3/8 oregon 18".325 gb 20" tsumura). And lone behold none of them clog on either saw. Now I have been cutting the driest elm and hickory I can find . I'm sure that helped clog them but dang.

Don't have the time right now, but I'm curious if a different bar oil might help the issue on the round hole bars. I only have some cam2 from menards around right now.

Steven

 

[RI Chevy]

Have you tried drilling the oil hole slightly bigger? It helps on many bars. If you compare the Tsumura oil hole to say a stock or no name bar oil hole you can see the difference.
It might help a bit.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Have you tried drilling the oil hole slightly bigger? It helps on many bars. If you compare the Tsumura oil hole to say a stock or no name bar oil hole you can see the difference.
It might help a bit.

I tried to slot one of the oregon bars, but it didn't help much. I think like everyone else said. The bars with the angled hole are the way to go. Hard to believe that the tsumura and gb with the idy bidy oil holes actually oil the best. But they do. I think I will experiment with a oregon or two and see if I can't come up with something simple. Otherwise @Redbull661 is going to be getting more of my money hahaha!


Steven

 

[RI Chevy]

On mine, the oiler hole on the Tsumura is much larger than the oiler hole on my Oregon.
So I drilled the hole a little larger on Oregon.

 

[Dub11]

On mine, the oiler hole on the Tsumura is much larger than the oiler hole on my Oregon.
So I drilled the hole a little larger on Oregon.

I use some cheapo "diamond" burrs on my $15 Amazon dremel to open them Oregon holes up while trying to keep the same slanted profile.

 

[RI Chevy]

Yes... Good idea sir.

 

[Basher]

Bigger and angled fixed it for me when Stihl bars started showing up with tiny holes mid 2000, the ES bars were being burned up by fellow cutters until I opened the bar oil holes, blame EPA on that one.

 

[RI Chevy]

Yes...

 

[huskihl]

If you do any drilling, clean up the rough edges inside the groove with a cutoff wheel or tiny file. If there are any burrs left, it'll grab onto chips and plug off more easily

 

[Termitebuffet]

I drill them out to 5/32" and debur good ...it helps immensely

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