Husqvarna 2100 thread

[Frank bierce]

Finished these two last night.

Whooooah!!! Very nice!!

 

[Brewz]

Do the ring pins go to the exhaust side on these saws? Every other two stroke I've ever worked on went ring gaps to intake side. I checked when I put the piston in this thing and the gaps didn't end up over a port and it's running good so I assumed that they went that way. Then I saw on another forum they mentioned them going to exhaust.

Edit: I went and looked at my old piston, what was said over there is clearly BS as the ring overlap is too close to center, they would catch on the exhaust port.

I just stripped a 2101 and ring pins were on the intake side

 

[Brewz]

Question for 2101 experts.

The saw was lfft to sit for years full of ethanol fuel and all rubber associated with the fuel tank is ruined.

I can get a fuel hose but this little breather section has me worried.



The 2100 just had a plug in the hole.
Is it needed?

Suggestions?

 

[srcarr52]

I just stripped a 2101 and ring pins were on the intake side

That's where they should be.

 

[srcarr52]

Question for 2101 experts.

The saw was lfft to sit for years full of ethanol fuel and all rubber associated with the fuel tank is ruined.

I can get a fuel hose but this little breather section has me worried.

View attachment 32124

The 2100 just had a plug in the hole.
Is it needed?

Suggestions?

That is the tank vent. You can cut an AM fuel line to replace the rubber portion. In the top there should be an aluminum check valve that only lets air into the tank.

 

[Brewz]

That is the tank vent. You can cut an AM fuel line to replace the rubber portion. In the top there should be an aluminum check valve that only lets air into the tank.

Of course!
Mate....... you have come through with the goods.
I will do that.

Champion!

 

[flying pig]

Here's one for guys with a lot more experience with these saws than me: I want to set mine up for all around use with a bit longer bar (36"). I don't want 404, as I want to mill with it and cut width is a concern for us here as a 36" tree would be about our biggest. I want a 36" bar because that's what Dad ran, and to have a saw set up to mill bigger wood when we need it. A buddy has a 181 running a 24" and we use it the most.

Dad and I were talking about it and he said not to go like they did (404 full comp with dropped rakers and a 7 tooth driver). We were thinking of gearing it up to a 9 tooth if it will pull a full comp 36 that fast. That way it's drops the saws torque, increases cut speed and I can keep the rakers high and still take advantage of that big engine and full comp chain (which shouldn't plug if it's taking a shallower cut faster). What do you guys think?

I found a guide that said factory saws won't pull it, that they derail easier too which would suck.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

This is more a milling question, than a direct relation to the saw.

Changing sprocket size doesn't change the torque, it's the gearing. To high a gearing and it's like trying to climb a steep hill in 5th in a 3 cylinder diahatsu

A 9 tooth 3/8 will be roughly as fast as a 8 tooth 404. 9 tooth .325 is approx same a a 7 tooth 404. So should not have any problems throwing the chain.

Or do you want to go 9 tooth 404?

If you are having problems with chip Clarence it's a chain issue, not really a sprocket issue.

Get a digital angle finder, set the raker depth to between 5-7° angle to the top off the tooth. Any higher really and you get a crap surface finish. If you want to mill faster switch to an 8 tooth, good milling is VERY dependant on raker depth.

 

[mdavlee]

Here's one for guys with a lot more experience with these saws than me: I want to set mine up for all around use with a bit longer bar (36"). I don't want 404, as I want to mill with it and cut width is a concern for us here as a 36" tree would be about our biggest. I want a 36" bar because that's what Dad ran, and to have a saw set up to mill bigger wood when we need it. A buddy has a 181 running a 24" and we use it the most.

Dad and I were talking about it and he said not to go like they did (404 full comp with dropped rakers and a 7 tooth driver). We were thinking of gearing it up to a 9 tooth if it will pull a full comp 36 that fast. That way it's drops the saws torque, increases cut speed and I can keep the rakers high and still take advantage of that big engine and full comp chain (which shouldn't plug if it's taking a shallower cut faster). What do you guys think?

I found a guide that said factory saws won't pull it, that they derail easier too which would suck.

Stick with a 7 pin with full comp. 9 pin takes too much power and the clutch won't like it. I never go past an 8 pin even with ported 880 on a 36".

 

[Brewz]

Agreed.
a 9 pin is probably fun to show off with using a short bar and soft wood but if your loading the saw for extended periods, slow and steady will win the race.
Less chain speed will mean less load on the clutch so less heat and less chain stretch.
It will also gear the saw to reduce bog.
The whole show is going to be a lot better with a slower chain on an extended milling cut.

I wont be using anything over a 7 pin!

On a happy note, its looking like I may be able to keep the 2100.... well I am working towards keeping it!

 

[mdavlee]

8 pin works for some milling but not at 36" the way I file. I usually can get mine to feed itself down the log or I have to hold the saw back a little bit.

 

[flying pig]

I didn't realize that it has a 7 pin 3/8 driver on it now. For the price I'll buy an 8 pin 3/8 and try it with the new bar and chain just to see.

 

[srcarr52]

First cut with a fresh 2100.

 

[Frank bierce]

First cut with a fresh 2100.

That saw looks hungry for more wood!!

 

[flying pig]

Sounds great! What b/c you running?

 

[srcarr52]

Sounds great! What b/c you running?

28" full comp square ground with 8 pin.

 

[VinceGU05]

Question for 2101 experts.

The saw was lfft to sit for years full of ethanol fuel and all rubber associated with the fuel tank is ruined.

I can get a fuel hose but this little breather section has me worried.

View attachment 32124

The 2100 just had a plug in the hole.
Is it needed?

Suggestions?

I got a spare one somewhere in the shed

 

[Normzilla]

My 2100 has a v-stack with a K and N filter.Weather it makes it run any better is anyones guess .It was a PNW saw so I suppose that K and N was a regional thing .

M8me has same setup. It was far better than the skinny stock filter, of the time. Especially in Redwood.

 

[Normzilla]

Is the ring over the chain lobes removable.

It doesnt want to come off and I am not keen of forcing it if it will be a *b-word to replace if I break it

Yes it does but can be tricky. Just be patient with it

 

[Normzilla]

I got a spare one somewhere in the shed

Echo repower kits, come with a tank bent that works. Eccentric and I did mine up