High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

First attempt

TX_Welder

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I got this little 350 for free from a friend that didnt want to rebuild it. I believe the plastic intake clamp gave up and caused its premature demise.
It had some pretty bad aluminum transfer in the jug and the piston was toast so I ordered a new meteor flat top piston and cleaned up the jug using the mastermind method.
This is what I ended up with. Lightly sanded the squish band and cut .018 off the base.
20191107_170355.jpg pic of the setup in the lathe. 20191106_184936.jpg
 

TX_Welder

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Stage two. Fashioned a cutter out of the old piston and a sawzall blade, cut and sanded the squish and took .020 off the bearing cap. I elected to cut the cap rather than the base again because at .018 I was already getting into the bottom of the intake. So far I think the jug is about .046 lower than it was originally. 20200308_194353.jpg
 

TX_Welder

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Bolted the cylinder back down and put a degree wheel on it and this is where I got a surprise. The piston at bdc blocks nearly half of the transfers. I marked it best I could with a pencil and measured it and best I can tell I've got .140 of the top of the piston showing in the transfers. I've only removed .046 from the base/bearing cap so I had .094 covering them before I did anything. And it ran good. Is that normal ?
Here's a pic, you may have to zoom in.20200307_213301.jpg
 

TX_Welder

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Timing numbers as it sits right now.
In. 74
Ex. 110
Tr. 144

I've got an idea of where I need to go but any input is welcome and appreciated.
Debating on leaving the exhaust where it is, would that have a negative effect ? I see most people are doing these around 104-105. Let me know what you guys think.
 

drf256

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Bolted the cylinder back down and put a degree wheel on it and this is where I got a surprise. The piston at bdc blocks nearly half of the transfers. I marked it best I could with a pencil and measured it and best I can tell I've got .140 of the top of the piston showing in the transfers. I've only removed .046 from the base/bearing cap so I had .094 covering them before I did anything. And it ran good. Is that normal ?
Here's a pic, you may have to zoom in.View attachment 229278
Happens in more saws than you’d think, it’s not always visible. Raising the transfers will give you your area back.

Double check your numbers. For the ex and tr, use a ring and a pick, much can be skewed by purely visual assessment of the piston crown.

Because piston speed varies throughout the cycle, the transfers always move more in degrees than the exhaust roof.
 

XP_Slinger

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Nice work, thanks for putting up a thread. Doc and Deets have given some valuable guidance already but I’ll echo what they said about checking transfer timing again. 144 just doesn’t seem right.
 

gurwald

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Nice how did you make the cutter? pics? :)
 

TX_Welder

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I cut into the top of the piston with a hacksaw, then drove the sawzall blade down into the groov . Trimmed it up with a grinder and stoned the top edge a little to put a little cutting angle on it. Got the idea from another member on here. Can't remember who. 20191106_172215.jpg 20191106_172154.jpg 20191106_172159.jpg
 

gurwald

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Looks like it worked out great!
 

TX_Welder

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It did the job. If I was going to make this a habit I'd build a mandrel like treemonkey.

Home from work now, about to go recheck port timing.
 

TX_Welder

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Your gunna have a lower intake than 74
110 is believable
144? Can’t be


Your gunna want around 106-119-81
So I checked it again and I came up with roughly the same measurements.
I took some small stainless wire (.032) stuck it in the ports and this is what I got.

114
139
71

Checked three times and on average I get .011" per degree of rotation. Wire measures .032"
 

Deets066

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So I checked it again and I came up with roughly the same measurements.
I took some small stainless wire (.032) stuck it in the ports and this is what I got.

114
139
71

Checked three times and on average I get .011" per degree of rotation. Wire measures .032"
Oem or China cylinder?
 
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