Boring questions.

[Jscb1b]

I'm cutting mesquite. What is a good combination bar and chain for bore cutting? Stihl green bar and chain? Stihl yellow bar and chain? Green bar yellow chain? Yellow bar green chain? After you bore cut, is it better to back chain all the way through? Or back chain a bit then trigger from the back side of the tree? Thanks!

 

[Lnk]

I'm cutting mesquite. What is a good combination bar and chain for bore cutting? Stihl green bar and chain? Stihl yellow bar and chain? Green bar yellow chain? Yellow bar green chain? After you bore cut, is it better to back chain all the way through? Or back chain a bit then trigger from the back side of the tree? Thanks!

Clicked on this thread because i was bored. I thought I could help. Wrong kind of boring, sorry.

 

[chipper1]

Green chain doesn't bore well. Whatever bar/chain combination you use, it must be well tuned to the tree species, the saw, and your cutting style.
There are other options for cutting a leaner than boring, such as the coos bay/triangle cut. A sharp chain, and a quick cutting saw are part of a good falling plan when dealing with leaners. On leaners most times I make very shallow face cuts, but not too shallow the tree sits down on the bar when I bore it lol.
You should familiarize yourself with bore cutting on a tree that's already down, then practice on a stump of a tree that's already been dropped. When just starting out with bore cuts I recommend making them with the top side of the bar away from the hinge as the top side will walk in and you can easily cut your hinge, consideration should be taken in a like manner for your trigger. Once you have made the bore cut and set the hinge thickness, then you can cut towards the back leaving a trigger(dont go too far) if you're already on the high side, if not move to the high side before cutting towards the back to leave the trigger. I typically leave a trigger and remove the saw and then I cut just below the back cut to release (some will argue with that, I'll just say, when their saws flying thru the air, I hope there's a video ). If I'm cutting out the back it's because the tree doesn't have a heavy lean, and most times in that case I just make a standard back cut.
Best thing is to get someone to help you fall it that can guide you, even if you make the cuts.
Hope this helps.

 

[Catbuster]

Yellow bar/yellow chain. I haven’t cut Mesquite, though I must say it’s a great wood to smoke meat with. Square ground bores the best, best I can succinctly explain is that the working corner, being ninety degrees, immediately severs fiber instead of allowing fiber to roll up the corner before it’s cut. Don’t go crazy on rakers, too grabby a chain with be nasty if not impossible to bore cut with.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I thought this wear all the peeps hangout that don’t contribute to the nsp3 thread

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I don’t know much about coloured chains but some bore very well and others don’t

Anyhow, as catbusters says, don’t overdo the rakers ! . And practicing is a good idea.
I find a sharp semi chisel chain works best. But I would still use a full chisel if it was all I had.

As for back chaining or not! … iirc apart from the bar pushing back at you, it also wants to cut and pull to wards the top of the bar while your pushing .(iirc) ? However if it’s tight to the hinge.. it can lead to you getting to dam close or even cutting the hinge.

You have to know where you will end/finish up before you start. As with most things it’s easier to show rather than explaining by typing it

 

[Ketchup]

As said above, raker height is the main thing. Don’t lower them too much. Semi chisel is probably easiest but if it’s safety chain you’ll have trouble because it has an additional raker on the strap link. Full chisel (yellow) will grab faster and kick a little harder if you start the bore cut improperly.

You can back-bar towards your trigger, but don’t back bar all the way until the tree falls. Fiber bonds can fail vertically under extreme tension and take your saw with the tree. Leave 1-4” of trigger wood, remove the saw, set your wedges (if you haven’t already), and then do a back-cut 1” below the bore cut to release the trigger.

Bore cuts are usually called for when falling leaning trees that are prone to barber chair and often to swing a tree away from it’s lean. Do not expect to swing a severe leaner more than 45 degrees from its lean. Often much less is possible. Take your time. Be overly cautious. Start on easy trees.

 

[Dustin4185]

All great advice. The only thing I’ll add is that I’ve had a lot of chatter with using certain lightweight bars. Stihl LW bars don’t seem to have the same issue. Makes zero sense unless the nose is that much different. Sugi bars had issues as well as LW Oregon bars. Practice your boring on a block, then easy trees, then leaners. Watch your hinge and trigger!

 

[Moparmyway]

I’m just going to add that practicing boring at GTG dollar races helped me understand what I was doing and why, that easily translated into boring for felling cuts.

Best advice I can offer:

1. Practice boring before you need to bore

2. Keep rakers taller for a boring chain, it’s going to help you bore cut without “incindents”

3. ABSOFRIGGINLUTELY cut your trigger BELOW your bore cut, as it’s more than likely that your trigger will shear before you finish cutting the trigger, especially if it’s a heavy leaner, or if your wedges are really loaded

 

[Jscb1b]

Thanks everyone for your responses!

 

[davidwyby]

Buy fundamentals of general tree work by Beranek

 

[Jscb1b]

I have his book and D. Douglas Dent's book.

 

[davidwyby]

I ain’t too far from AZ, come cut sometime.