Beginner's Build ms660

[Clackb@]

I will give that a try. I just checked the local dealership to see if they had the parts but they do not and it will take 2 weeks for them to get here.. there aren't a lot of larger saws on the island. If all else failsIf all else fails I will pick up a vacuum elbow at the automotive store

 

[Clackb@]

Thanks for the replies! I removed the fuel line elbow from the grommet and pressed the fuel line grommet to properly seat it. It was definitely not seated properly. I then reinserted the elbow making sure the fat side went to o the grommet. After a minute or two of idling to build pressure in the tank I appear to have no more leak.

I also felt that the impulse linenfit on the carb nipple was a tad loose so I coated the nipple with dirko before reassembly and let it set over night. I do plan to replace it soon though.

 

[Clackb@]

It's running with no more fuel leaks.
To tune it I opened both h an l one full turn out from seated. I ran it at idle to warm up. The idle adjustment won't make the rpm go any higher than about 2700 at this point. I turned the L in until it hit the highest rpm which was about 3300 and backed it out a quarter turn (which put the L at about 3/4 turn out). I then adjusted the idle for about 2600 rpm. At this point the max rpm is about 9900 so I turned the H in slightly (about 1/8 turn) to bring the rpm up to 10500ish. I do find that at idle it burbles a lot and my tach fluctuates somewhat between 2500 and 2850 rpm.

I have also noticed a fair bit of black goo/oil leaking out between the exhaust halves and onto the front of the crankcase.


Any input on the tuning procedure I used is greatly appreciated.

 

[MustangMike]

Your hi RPMs are very low. The black goo almost sounds like the carb is leaking into the crank case after the saw is shut off. I had one do that, the fuel lever was set too high. I fixed it, and the carb was fine.

I think if that fuel lever is set wrong, it could be the root of both problems (the goo and the low RPMs).

 

[Canadian farm boy]

The black goo is likely unburnt mix oil. Your H side adjustment is really rich (low wot rpms) and if you haven't made any good sized cuts with the saw yet you will get this.
I'd be making a couple consecutive good sized cuts with the saw and retune it to approx 12k rpms wot. Just make sure the saw 4 strokes good for break in when not in the wood.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Youre pissin in the wind if you havent pulled the carb to check metering lever as said above. You can mess with the screws all ya want but it will never run right if the lever is not set right. Mine was way off, has run just fine since i adjusted it.

 

[Clackb@]

Is there a specific depth setting for the metering lever. Should it be flush with the body of the carb or a specific depth below. I know they make a guage, but I'm not sure of the brand or model of the carbs that come with these kits and of course if I can get away with just using a straight edge (and a shim measured with my calipers if needed) that would be great. I assume they're either Zama or Walbro.

 

[MustangMike]

They are clones, but set the level flush with a straight edge that goes across the gap.

 

[Clackb@]

Got the metering lever adjusted and tuned it to the best ofomy abilities. O have the idle set at about 2600 and the max rpm at aboit 11,500. I may bump the high idle after a few more tanks, but am happy with the current cut speed and power.

I did some cuts this week. I started with some local yellow oak. It's a light weight but semi hard wood and was only about 18 inches thick. Ran two tanks noodling it into slabs.

The second day I ran three tanks through slabbing a mahogany stump. 4 foot x 28 to 30 inches. Just under a tank per slab. Did about half before the chain needed sharpening and I needed a break. The slabs are about 3.5 inches thick and heavy as heck, but beautiful. Will be going back at it on Thursday.

Thanks for all the help guys. There definitely a sense of pride that goes with building your own saw.