Bar/chain for Husqvarna 395xp

[livemusic]

For a 395xp to use for felling large DBH hardwoods and bucking, and for getting into milling some lumber, what bar/chain? As for felling/bucking large DBH trees, this is occasional, doesn't happen very often, but I am thinking 32 inch for a bar. I have a 20 inch on my 362 (and could go to a 24 inch). As for milling with a chainsaw mill, I have no idea what size bar is needed, never done it. And then there is 3/8 pitch but what gauge... 050 versus 058 or 063?

Lastly, does a lightweight bar such as a Tsumura or other make any difference in a saw this big versus a Husky bar?

 

[Dub11]

I'd go 36" or bigger and at that length mostly everything is .063

 

[livemusic]

I'd go 36" or bigger and at that length mostly everything is .063

What would 36 inch bar do for you in milling that a 32 in would not handle? Sorry for ignorance. If I ever deal with a large DBH tree, it's usually something like 28-36 inches but I'm thinking usually more like 28-32 inches. We don't have many monsters like in PA or elsewhere.

 

[Dustin4185]

A mill uses up some of your bar length. I use a 42” bar to mill with on occasion. I generally use a 24 or 28 for felling big stuff. Learning to match cuts is better than dealing with a floppy bar in my opinion. I do fell with a big bar of the tree is iffy and I want to make one face cut and one back cut and get the heck out of there. I have Oregon bars in 24, 28, 32, 36, and 42. They work well for what I use them for.

 

[livemusic]

How much is "lost" with a 32 inch bar when milling? What size log could you work on with a 32 versus having, say, a 36 inch bar?

 

[huskyboy]

How much is "lost" with a 32 inch bar when milling? What size log could you work on with a 32 versus having, say, a 36 inch bar?

Always better to have more than not enough. I only get like 26” or so useable area with a 32” bar on my mill. With a 42” bar I get like 36”. If you take the spikes off you get a tad bit more. I can remeasure if you want but that’s what I recall from the last time I milled a few weeks ago. I think a stock 394/395 does real nice with 36” 3/8 7 pin with plenty of power to spare. I run .404 32” and 42” on my ported one, it stays sharp longer than 3/8 but takes more power out of the saw (you have to be conservative with raker height, angles and hook on .404, but it pulls it good with a well set up chain). Stick to .058 and .063 for long bars. They oil better than .050.

 

[huskyhank]

You will lose about 8-10 inches of cut depending on whether you take the dogs off the saw and gain maybe an inch or so back. A 42 will be nice for milling and let you cut about 32-33 inch logs. A 42 is really heavy and floppy for felling - you won’t like it and it will wear you out.

A 32” bar is about my practical maximum for felling and bucking. Its reasonably stiff and not too heavy and will work well on trees that fit in your 42” milling bar set up. Its also nice for limbing and not bending over so much.

I prefer to use all .063 chain and bars to keep down on what I have to stock. Pretty much no local shops carry any bars and chains this big, so for me it all comes from internet sources.

I use standard bars. Lightweight stuff costs lots more. When bolted to the mill its gonna be heavy and a few ounces will never be noticed. Its just dang heavy and you’ll need to figure out work methods that help minimize how much ‘rasslin you do with the saw.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Mills that are 36" cut 32-3" with a 42"
28" or 32" is all you will ever need. It's rare any of us use a 36-42" for felling or stumps.
Having a 50" on a four foot mill is good if your going to do big Ys and such with the mill.
I use a 066 32" lite when needed. Most times it's less bar or a smaller saw felling.
Got a 37" for my 394.