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026/260/261/ drum

Cracker Boy

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The notch on the oiler may have been the reason all along i was getting conflicting numbers.then. i went back i checked the oiler part numbers and they were the same.i was like well if oil pump and worm are the same why cant i use drum off 026 wtf.
 

RI Chevy

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I think Oregon makes one.
 

nohoff

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All MS 260s sold in Germany have adjustable oilers.
Only early 026s have a fixed oil pump. I think all 026s build after 1992 have a adjustable oilpump.
 

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I have both metal badge and plastic badge 026 saws. They all have fixed oilers. Only the PRO branded saws have the adjustable oilers.
 

nohoff

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Oh i have metal badge 026s with adjustable oiler :D
The german IPL says adjustable oiler for all MS 260 except MS 260 Farmboss.
And we have no Farmboss saws here in Germany.
 

Cracker Boy

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Although i converted mine from a fixed oiler to an adjustable.there is a washer/ a spacer/ the pump/ the worm /and the drum. To change.or a kit you can buy.the fixed oiler puts out plent of oil.i just didnt like it pumping oil sitting there idleing.
 

Cracker Boy

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Oh i have metal badge 026s with adjustable oiler :D
The german IPL says adjustable oiler for all MS 260 except MS 260 Farmboss.
And we have no Farmboss saws here in Germany.
We dont in states either
 

retro

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Thanx good info.does koyo make the bigger bearings for say 044 as well.?i actually had this happen on a 261 saw for a guy it ruined the crank.had to buy used oem crank and split case.

There's a lot of them stories out there concerning the 261, but the majority of those failures were probably caused by crew hands that didn't give a crap. All ya gotta do is grease that bearing occasionally (and don't over-tighten the chain) and most will survive for quite a while. But its a PITA to yank the drum, clean all the parts in solvent and regrease them every few tanks and replace the chintzy china bearing every 20 tanks or so... so it don't get done.

Stihl still hasn't provided a way to grease that bearing with a needle greaser (like Husky did) yet. And they won't because they sell many more crankshafts when paired up with their soft china needle bearings with plastic cages.

The aftermarket provides far better bearings for that drum than OEM, so its the first mod I do on all my needle bearing clutch drum equipped saws. I've been adding o-rings for years now too, to each side of the drum to help to hold in clean grease longer and keep the fines out of the bearing. Its still a PITA, but its the only cheap and effective way to get out of their trick-bag, IMO.

I never looked up the dimensions for an 044 drum bearing, but its likely one of the major bearing manufacturers make one to fit. Scrounge around the net and buy one. I only bought the high quality Koyo bearing for my 261 because it was cheap and easy to find. Ironically it was made in Germany... Stihl could'a done that too, for the same price as china plastic...
 

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What size o-rings does one look for?
 

Cracker Boy

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There's a lot of them stories out there concerning the 261, but the majority of those failures were probably caused by crew hands that didn't give a crap. All ya gotta do is grease that bearing occasionally (and don't over-tighten the chain) and most will survive for quite a while. But its a PITA to yank the drum, clean all the parts in solvent and regrease them every few tanks and replace the chintzy china bearing every 20 tanks or so... so it don't get done.

Stihl still hasn't provided a way to grease that bearing with a needle greaser (like Husky did) yet. And they won't because they sell many more crankshafts when paired up with their soft china needle bearings with plastic cages.

The aftermarket provides far better bearings for that drum than OEM, so its the first mod I do on all my needle bearing clutch drum equipped saws. I've been adding o-rings for years now too, to each side of the drum to help to hold in clean grease longer and keep the fines out of the bearing. Its still a PITA, but its the only cheap and effective way to get out of their trick-bag, IMO.

I never looked up the dimensions for an 044 drum bearing, but its likely one of the major bearing manufacturers make one to fit. Scrounge around the net and buy one. I only bought the high quality Koyo bearing for my 261 because it was cheap and easy to find. Ironically it was made in Germany... Stihl could'a done that too, for the same price as china plastic...
I agree cuz then what happens is the drum wears out as well..also 9 times out of 10 on the 1121 series is the clutch side bearing ands seal are burnt and wore out wich burns up top ends from over tightening or to big of bar and chain
 

retro

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What size o-rings does one look for?

I use a SAE size o-ring slid over the crank in the inside and a metric 10 x 1.5 mm o-ring on the outside. Neither are a perfect fit, but they hold grease in that bearing for a long time. I have SAE & metric o-ring kits that I dug them out of... if I knew sizes that would work on every 261 I'd make a thread for it, but I don't.

EDIT:
The inside o-ring ID I use is slightly larger than the 10mm crank stub. When you find the right size o-ring for the inside you can feel the drum slip over the ring when you push it on, which compresses the ring slightly against the crank. The drum will then rotate with a bit more effort, but the chain should stop normally and not creep at idle. If you get one in there a bit too fat the chain will creep. Trial & error...
 
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retro

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After looking in my kits, I think the inside o-ring I used on my 261 has a 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD x 1/16" thick. I'm pretty sure the outside one is a 10 mm ID x 1.5 mm thick, which would mean that should be a snug 13 mm OD when installed. As I said they aren't perfect fits because the factory didn't leave enough space at each end of that bearing for o-rings. Its worth the trouble though.
 
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