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MG porting

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Got the crankshaft installer tools finished for the flywheel side of the ms440 and ms660 to my friend likes doing things a little bit different than others but this is cool and will work great hoping to get the tap tomorrow to finish the pto side.IMG_20181123_133342.jpg IMG_20181123_133356.jpg IMG_20181123_154609.jpg IMG_20181123_134048.jpg
 

Frank bierce

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Canadian farm boy

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Got this old beauty running again. Rebuilt the recoil, cleaned the carb, replaced the coil and dumped out 2 cups of brown mystery juice from the fuel tank. Big thanks to my buddy Dall for the parts hook up.
Fresh fuel and a few pulls and it fired right up. Gonna give it a test run in some wood tomorrow IMG_7711.JPGIMG_7715.JPG
 

drf256

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Ceramic bearings are easy to damage on the installation. The dominant bearings are “hybrid” bearings, that’s why I used them in my hybrid.

If you miss the correct amount of heat and start pounding them into the case, it’s over Johnny.

All joking aside, hybrid refers to the fact that the balls are ceramic, but the races are steel. They do make full ceramic bearings as well.

Jasha (aka Treeslinger) built his own ceramic hybrids and was a pro cutter. He said the ones he built outlasted standard steel ones 3:1 IIRC.

They are apparently made to tighter and more accurate specs, and the balls don’t grow with heat like the steel ones do. They are reported to need less lubrications than a steel bearing.

IDK, but I think they are a luxury item that isn’t really necessary in a worksaw. I do think that they will last just fine if installed correctly.

@ranchdadmike 262 I built has ceramic hybrid 6202’s in it.

I’ve got a set of dominant Stihl bearings here that I’d sell if anyone wants to try them. They fit 034-046. I’d sell them for cheaper than dominant does.
 

drf256

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Re: Chainsaw balance … it is less expensive to "over build" the saw than to try to correctly balance it. That is partly why they all have AV. Single cylinders are tough to balance.

Easiest to balance: Straight 6 or V-12, then V-8, V-6 and 4 generally need counter weights.
“Harmonic Balancers” don’t balance an engine in and of themselves unless that have extra weight on them. They balance “harmonics” which occur when the crankshaft slightly twists with each piston firing.

I believe that saws are balanced with the counterweights. But because they are a single piston motor, they cannot balance throughout all rpm. The factory gets a range on the balance, and they try to make that happen at the correct rpm where the saw will spend a lot of its life.

440/460 hybrids are a good example of a saw where we mate a different piston weight to a crank not designed to swing it. They vibrate, more with the heavier slugs and less with the lighter.

I prefer a cut 272 piston in my hybrids, plus the single ring pin allows fingers if I want them. It’s smaller, so it increases case volume a bit more than just the jug. I can get more torque out of the saw, and the cut piston weighs nearly the same as an oem 044 piston, which is the weight the factory intended for that crankshaft.
 

drf256

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Here are some pics of 52mm 12mm pinned pistons. The Hyway 272 looks to be of good quality and weighs closer to an oem 460 piston than a meteor 272 does. I may try one in a 46.

The no name is a meteor 046 piston (3rd pic). The single ringed pistons are 272. -37 is a meteor 272 with .037 machined off the crown.

IMG-20181122-WA0078.jpeg IMG-20181122-WA0080.jpeg IMG-20181122-WA0082.jpeg IMG-20181122-WA0074.jpeg IMG-20181122-WA0076.jpeg
 
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justoldsaws

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Little Merc is back for repairs, still has a small fuel leak, fitting all new fuel lines, replacing 2 more hose clamps and found another vac hose had small damage that I hadn't picked up the first time.
Got a fishing trip next week, got to get this sorted.

This outboard has fought me all the way, finally got it sorted.

20181124_172036.jpg
 

MustangMike

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Good Stuff.

Al is right that the main purpose of a harmonic balancer is to suppress felt vibrations (not balance the engine). It generally has a soft layer (rubber) between two hard layers (metal) to absorb vibrations.

However, on an externally balanced engine (like Ford 289 and 428), additional weights were added to the flywheel and balancer to help the counterweights balance the engine. These engines often failed if run at high RPM for extended periods of time (the counter weight is not in line with the piston + rod).

Because chainsaws are not individually balanced, they are over built to withstand vibrations. This is why we don't need to have them balanced every time we change a piston, etc.

But Dr Al is correct, they will run smoother and last longer with the correct weight piston.
 

Car wash guy

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Just assembled my new generator. Came on sale for half price. Fired it up for a few mins. Will hopfully try it out more tomorrow after work.
3f58362e0307d13738227caab211c8c3.jpg


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Those are top of the line on portable generators. I've got the 12500 at my house for outages. When the power goes out I'm the only house for miles with hot water lol.

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Tor R

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Not often I work on chainsaws nowadays....
This one is one of those freebies I got from my dealer, not much usable from this 357 xpg year 08, massive leaking in decomp blew the top end, there may have been a tree fall since the case was cracked on both mounts.
it's my beliving that this 357 had a short life, gotta praise the owner for a good maintance as well.
_DSC5246.jpg

The positive, I also puchased a few factory tools, intake blocks for 445 and 435, screw driver for carb adjustment (I'm not done making or buying tools even I plan to take a break in 19):
_DSC5247.jpg
 

Tor R

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Got the crankshaft installer tools finished for the flywheel side of the ms440 and ms660 to my friend likes doing things a little bit different than others but this is cool and will work great hoping to get the tap tomorrow to finish the pto side.View attachment 151602 View attachment 151603 View attachment 151604 View attachment 151605
Looks good bud,
what plans do you have for the tool future? ie saw models.
When your first making them, I would recommend a LH nut instead of a RH nut for the flywheel side.
95% of tools comes with RH nuts for both sides, but if you use LH nut on flywheel side you will torque so the bolt doesnt screw loose.
 

MG porting

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Looks good bud,
what plans do you have for the tool future? ie saw models.
When your first making them, I would recommend a LH nut instead of a RH nut for the flywheel side.
95% of tools comes with RH nuts for both sides, but if you use LH nut on flywheel side you will torque so the bolt doesnt screw loose.
Thank you. We drilled a hole through all the threaded rods so all I have to do is sick a screw driver through it or a small long small bolt so I can hold it. But your way sounds good to. As for the use of the tools I've put cases together the hard way heat and freeze tired of that game and with these tools it will make thing simple but I do still plan on freezing the crankshafts just because I'm legally blind so the less I need to rush the better for me and the saw's that I work on I injoy working on them most of the time but when I get more than five people in a rush to get there saw's back it can be tuff tripping over stuff. Lol
 

Tor R

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550 year 2015, 60 hour run time, lean scored, AT error code 13.
Dealer had pulled the jug before he handled it over to me, gotta do a preasure/vacuum test before I know how bad it is.

This is probleby the most normal issue a 550 has:
_DSC5255.jpg
 

MG porting

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Well my friend made the the last one today unfortunately the tap won't be here until Wednesday but it's getting closer to being finished. IMG_20181125_125923.jpg good thing I had the 7/8 drill bit we needed because that's the only bit he didn't have lol I'm letting him keep the one that I had it's the right thing to do I think.
 
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