So what's the current two stroke oil favorite?

[huskihl]

I don't know because I was given this chainsaw to repair and keep

That was straight gassed. Or maybe 1/8 tank of mix with 7/8 tank of straight gas

 

[davidwyby]

Pretty sure @afleetcommand has said the xtorqs were prone to bottom end failure. Partly due to the heavy piston.

 

[huskihl]

Pretty sure @afleetcommand has said the xtorqs were prone to bottom end failure. Partly due to the heavy piston.

Heavy piston, high operating rpm of the 5 series, and stuffers on the crank preventing at least some of the oil from getting to them

 

[Partner]

That was straight gassed. Or maybe 1/8 tank of mix with 7/8 tank of straight gas

It wasn't very clean, so it worked, but unfortunately it doesn't have a plug for the computer

 

[Stump Shot]

One new thing I've seen recently is the ring and lands getting sticky to where the ring will intermittently collapse and make a start/run issue, this in both regular carb and AT saws. I think the oil is a full syn, but I also believe the issue stems from frequent intermittent use, not getting a full heat to the piston as the more likely culprit. Full synthetic oil is harder to burn whether or not that plays into the scenario is anyone's guess.
I've seen enough of regular saws have the big rod end go out, no telling what was or wasn't used though. I don't consider a bearing failure due to heat a lubrication issue, although it does seem more prevalent in the strato saws, so maybe back to the less mix equals less heat dispersion? The crankshafts most always survive that I have seen when they blow their tops and bottoms.
Going on the 6th year of a set of six 372 X-Torques in tree service use and they are holding up fine with proper maintenance, ran at 40:1.
Again, not having any data to go along with the failures doesn't help in really looking in any one direction as to the immediate cause.

 

[pbillyi69]

One new thing I've seen recently is the ring and lands getting sticky to where the ring will intermittently collapse and make a start/run issue, this in both regular carb and AT saws. I think the oil is a full syn, but I also believe the issue stems from frequent intermittent use, not getting a full heat to the piston as the more likely culprit. Full synthetic oil is harder to burn whether or not that plays into the scenario is anyone's guess.
I've seen enough of regular saws have the big rod end go out, no telling what was or wasn't used though. I don't consider a bearing failure due to heat a lubrication issue, although it does seem more prevalent in the strato saws, so maybe back to the less mix equals less heat dispersion? The crankshafts most always survive that I have seen when they blow their tops and bottoms.
Going on the 6th year of a set of six 372 X-Torques in tree service use and they are holding up fine with proper maintenance, ran at 40:1.
Again, not having any data to go along with the failures doesn't help in really looking in any one direction as to the immediate cause.

what oil are the tree service saws getting?

 

[Stump Shot]

what oil are the tree service saws getting?

Been some time, last I knew was XP plus.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

my biggest saw is 70 ccm autotune

Treat it the same, my earliest found when questioning husky said 70cc, but does cc size really matter, think about it, they all run at full throttle therefor there is really no distinction is there between home or work, its an emissions thing

 

[pbillyi69]

Been some time, last I knew was XP plus.

i used to use xp oil we bought a five gallon bucket of it for a really good price. i never had a failure with it. we did have a few burnt up saws because of some addative in shell gas at the time

 

[FergusonTO35]

I bought Amsoil Saber at my local Napa and the counter parts guy made sure to tell me it was synthetic! It's not real oil, in other words. Kind of like they sell it but they don't really believe in it.... I live in North Bend WA, lot's of big douglas fir trees, and they are always wet for 9 months out of the year it seems like. I have'nt opened it yet, so am wondering if I should exchange it for some "real oil!" Lol...

It wasn't that big of a purchase, maybe like 12-14$ for a quart of it. Says right on there it's Synthetic!

They always give me kind of wierd looks when I buy German oil for my VW TDI, so I have been going to a different store for that oil, in Issaquah WA. Still is a Napa and they know all those "other guys" up the hill where I live at in North Bend. A guy at the Issaquah store did a gasket delete on his 372xp and he went on and on for about 15 minutes about Permatex, and compression, the guys in North Bend vs the Issaquah store....

It's kind of a hoot actually, hope they aren't members here or I'll be paying higher prices if they figure it out! You get better pricing if you don't dress up, go in there looking like you just pulled a transmission or something and need some parts and Gear Oil... then ask about the chainsaw oil sort of as an aside conversation... Just my theory anyways. My brother always says "Any oil is better than no Oil!" As I have blown up a few motors in my day... I was using Lucas oil at around 50:1 when I was trying to cut through a limb last year and the 372xpw just froze up and shut down.

Now I have a new OEM crankcase I got from someone on the other site, a new Gilardoni Piston/Cylinder kit, MityVac, Carb kit, new rubber parts, but the one thing I don't have that I really want now is just a plain old oil can for assembly!

Found this one on Amazon for 25$ just to show you guys what I am talking about... I don't want to mess the saw up after spending all that money on new parts! But still not going to pay 25$ for an oil can! View attachment 415145

FYI, you can buy that particular oil can for half that price at any farm store. I have one filled with 0w-20 for oiling various things and it works great.

 

[mrxlh]

I should revisit my statement here. I don't USUALLY use a 32:1 ratio. But if I were milling or cutting big stumps, I'd run 32:1.

After seeing Eggshooter's oil testing I believe 40:1 is plenty of oil in most situations. What Kevin said about strato engines is spot on too. Far less mix is directed thru the crankcase...which means less oil.

Those of you who are set on using high viscosity oils....and more of it might see a loss of performance over a thinner oil.

To me, those oils are for milling....

I would advise 32:1 for any saw running non metallic cages in the roller bearings just for the safety cooling factor. More oil, better heat transfer.

 

[mrxlh]

Would it not be easier to list the oils not to use ?

Or:

32:1 synthetic

87 non ethanol at least not for storage.

The list of the best is much shorter…

 

[jakethesnake]

Stihl ultra does indeed suck and swallow
But the poor quality gasoline we get here plays a part in it
I'm sure old mix with ethanol breaking down doesn't lead to peak performance.
And no the average person does not buy efree or canned fuel.
Often they mix oil in old milk jugs so they can see the pretty colors.

What you got against milk jugs?

 

[Partner]

Already at a ratio of 1:40, unburnt oil flows out of the muffler, so why do you want to pour even more of it?

 

[huskihl]

Already at a ratio of 1:40, unburnt oil flows out of the muffler, so why do you want to pour even more of it?

That’s the tune, not the ratio. But if you’re tuned that rich there’s probably no need for added oil

 

[Loony661]

That’s the tune, not the ratio

Bingo

 

[Partner]

If the mixture is rich, it will not reach the appropriate speed, I avoid Chinese chainsaws

 

[qurotro]

Already at a ratio of 1:40, unburnt oil flows out of the muffler, so why do you want to pour even more of it?

Work harder would help..
Just joking...
I use 32:1 Dom and all my saw tune 500 rpm lower than factory recommended.No wet muffler. But smaller saw tends to wet the muffler I think they make less heat to burn it.

 

[Moparmyway]

Smaller engines need less oil, my 35cc polesaw runs a 16” with .375 chain, it’s allways loaded and oozes oil outta the muffler running the same mix as my dry saws.

Engines under more load need more oil. Consider a milling setup and most anyone will tell you run fuel fat and extra oil.

 

[Partner]

Smaller engines need less oil, my 35cc polesaw runs a 16” with .375 chain, it’s allways loaded and oozes oil outta the muffler running the same mix as my dry saws.

Engines under more load need more oil. Consider a milling setup and most anyone will tell you run fuel fat and extra oil.

Write down how much oil you pour in