High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

395xp cylinder identification

Da dog man

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Hello everyone first time caller,long time listener here my name is Matt. Just picked up a used 395 on the cheap an was wondering if the cylinder is aftermarket or not. Has BR stamped on top tillotson carb is about all I know. As I don't know how to post pics any advice would help
 

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huskihl

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Probably can’t see it with the cylinder installed, but either on the left or right hand side down towards the base you will see MAHLE with some numbers and letters cast into it
 

Da dog man

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That's comforting I was thinking it was am because it's way cleaner than the rest of the saw. No scoring inside as far as I can tell. It does run as long as you have a screwdriver in your pocket was 300$ a decent buy w 28" b&c?
 

Da dog man

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Probably can’t see it with the cylinder installed, but either on the left or right hand side down towards the base you will see MAHLE with some numbers and letters cast into it
I'll dig a Lil deeper this afternoon on it an see. I appreciate the help
 

Fleethirte

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i say it’s a steal. worse case you throw a 100
oem carb on it and your in 400 for a 395 all
oem!!
 

Da dog man

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I would go through the fuel system and do a vacuum check
The idle screw backs out at wot so it's kinda finiky tried loctite but it didn't work also damn near dies of turned on its side. So I'm thinking air leak somewhere. Have tried brake cleaner an it passes that test
 

Duce

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If you ran it much, show us a picture of piston, or if you saw last piston and cylinder. Usually both intake and exhaust scored it's straight gassed, just exhaust side, air leak.
 

huskihl

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The idle screw backs out at wot so it's kinda finiky tried loctite but it didn't work also damn near dies of turned on its side. So I'm thinking air leak somewhere. Have tried brake cleaner an it passes that test
Not that it doesn’t happen, but the saw doesn’t really look old enough to need seals. The awkward tune is probably from the L screw being way rich trying to compensate for the changing throttle /idle screw setting
 

huskihl

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The idle screw backs out at wot so it's kinda finiky tried loctite but it didn't work also damn near dies of turned on its side. So I'm thinking air leak somewhere. Have tried brake cleaner an it passes that test
Nothing to lose.
Remove the idle screw and crimp the threads with vise grips and try it. Worst case scenario is a new carb
 

Junk Meister

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The idle screw backs out at wot so it's kinda finiky tried loctite but it didn't work also damn near dies of turned on its side. So I'm thinking air leak somewhere. Have tried brake cleaner an it passes that test
HUSKIHL got his comment in before I posted my comment. Follow his line of advice.
Dyeing or idle fluctuations when saw is turned on one side or the other is indictive to a seal being compromised.
The idle screw should have a spring or some sort of resistance to prevent it from backing out. another member with the details ( I don't own a 395) will clear the air sooner or later. You might request manuals for your saw. Do some searches here on OPE for carb rebuilding tips and avoid to much air pressure when cleaning the carb.
A good VACUUM/PRESSURE test will be your first step so you don't go chasing your tail or worse yet ruin your new-to-you saw.
Good Luck Matt.
 
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Duce

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Nothing to lose.
Remove the idle screw and crimp the threads with vise grips and try it. Worst case scenario is a new carb
Couldn't he just send it to you for a full treatment. Looks fairly clean from pictures.
 

Duce

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