It can depend on the chain, the angles the teeth are sharpened to, the kind and condition of wood, and operator error.
Dirt in a rotten hollow will dull chains quickly as will junk caught in a deep crotch in the log. Don't cut into the ground even slightly, roll the log to finish the cut. wash off any dirt on the outside of the wood and cut so the chain direction is such that the dirty part of the wood is last to get cut, so the dirt is thrown off the wood instead of drug through the cut. Watch out for gravel hidden in bark fissures near the stump.
Dry dead wood is harder on chains than fresh wet wood. certain woods especially near the stump suck up minerals that dull a chain quickly.
Woods that are particularly hard on chains even when still green are maples, hickory, hedge apple, and ironwood.
On chain sharpening: Maybe your chain is sharp, but the depth gauge points in front of the cutters are too high and need filing down a little. Steeper angles will stay sharp longer (but they don't cut faster or smoother). Keep the file high on the tooth, don't use too small of a file diameter, but make sure you use the right size file. Yellow is a normal profile, green would be more durable coming from a larger or higher up file.
Red would come from too low of file position or too small of diameter. I recommend filing the teeth top plate at 20-25degrees. 30-35 deg can dull fast, 45deg will dull almost instantly. Make sure the whole top plate, side plate and pointed corner (if the tooth has one) is all sharp.
Also, most cheaper brands (anything but Stihl) with laminated bars (looks like 3 layers of metal) have a wide gap between the rails, a low tolerance bar gauge. This can make crooked cuts happen very easily. Crooked cuts is normally caused by a dull or unevenly sharpened chain, but a loose rail gap can amplify crooked cutting a lot.
If you have ever run your chain backward, the chrome plating on the teeth could be worn off ruining the durability of the tooth sharpness.