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Turbomill Chainsaw powered swing mill

jb-chainsaws

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Just posting to see if anyone else has a turbomill chainsaw powered swing blade sawmill, as I'm in the process of buying one and having it shipped from NZ this month.

@Brewz do you know anyone on your little island that has one? As I think they originate from your neck of the woods ;)

I'll do a full review on it when it comes (8 weeks give or take) but I'm quietly optimistic about what I'll be able to achieve with it, and as far as I'm aware there are only a handful of them in the UK.

Lightweight, powerful (courtesy of my 084) easy to maintain and a maximum cut capacity of 8" x 16" double cut in the model I've opted for.

The plan is to take the idea of hiring a man and a mill. Bit further and hire myself and the mill out at a flat day rate to cut logs of any size straight into usable lumber.

Here's some generic photos of what I'm getting and a link to the website for anyone curious:

http://turbosawmill.com/

IMG_3409.JPG IMG_3412.JPG IMG_3413.JPG IMG_3410.JPG IMG_3411.JPG
 

Adirondackstihl

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Only concern I have would be the oiler on the powerhead.
 

jb-chainsaws

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Only concern I have would be the oiler on the powerhead.

I'll probably just drain the tank and run it minus bar to clear the oil lines, but I see what you're saying that would be a big oily mess!
 

Adirondackstihl

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I don't follow, how would this burn the oiler up any more than milling?
If you drain the oil tank, what's going to lubricate the rotating parts inside the oiler?
When CSMing, hopefully you're tank has oil in it.....
 

jb-chainsaws

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Every stihl oiler I've seen turns that slowly that I can't see it being an issue, all the modern ones work on a brass worm drive which is self lubricating and the half shaft will have enough residual oil on it to not be an issue given the speed it'll be rotating
 

Redfin

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Just looked at the pic with the 660 bolted to it. If the plate for the mill blocks the oiler grove it shouldnt be an issue?
 

jb-chainsaws

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Just looked at the pic with the 660 bolted to it. If the plate for the mill blocks the oiler grove it shouldnt be an issue?

Would that not cause the oiler to implode due to the pressure build up?
 

ajschainsaws

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That's a great investment JB
Couldn't you take the oiler assembly off or take out the worm drive
 

Adirondackstihl

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Every stihl oiler I've seen turns that slowly that I can't see it being an issue, all the modern ones work on a brass worm drive which is self lubricating and the half shaft will have enough residual oil on it to not be an issue given the speed it'll be rotating
The oiler turns the same RPM as the crank......
 

jb-chainsaws

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The oiler turns the same RPM as the crank......

Hate to say it but you're wrong there sir, the worm turns at the same speed as the crank but the oiler shaft turns a great deal slower:

IMG_3415.JPG

However I'm not wanting to argue, I do appreciate what you're saying and I'll look into removing the worm from the oiler as @ajschainsaws suggested just to be on the safe side.
 

Adirondackstihl

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Hate to say it but you're wrong there sir, the worm turns at the same speed as the crank but the oiler shaft turns a great deal slower:

View attachment 40831

However I'm not wanting to argue, I do appreciate what you're saying and I'll look into removing the worm from the oiler as @ajschainsaws suggested just to be on the safe side.
I realize the pump gear turns a considerable amount slower.....Gear reduction....speed reducer....whatever suits your fancy.
I was referring to the plastic worm itself.

IMG_5884.JPG
 

jb-chainsaws

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I realize the pump gear turns a considerable amount slower.....Gear reduction....speed reducer....whatever suits your fancy.
I was referring to the plastic worm itself.

The plastic worm is unlubricated other than perhaps assembly grease if they've been stripped, from what I can gather they're some form of teflon blend, and also never come into contact with the bar oil itself, the pump gear's half round shaft that transports the oil is separate from the gears.

However like I said I can see where you were coming from, apologies if I sounded shrewd
 

Iron.and.bark

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Just posting to see if anyone else has a turbomill chainsaw powered swing blade sawmill, as I'm in the process of buying one and having it shipped from NZ this month.

@Brewz do you know anyone on your little island that has one? As I think they originate from your neck of the woods ;)

I'll do a full review on it when it comes (8 weeks give or take) but I'm quietly optimistic about what I'll be able to achieve with it, and as far as I'm aware there are only a handful of them in the UK.

Lightweight, powerful (courtesy of my 084) easy to maintain and a maximum cut capacity of 8" x 16" double cut in the model I've opted for.

The plan is to take the idea of hiring a man and a mill. Bit further and hire myself and the mill out at a flat day rate to cut logs of any size straight into usable lumber.

Here's some generic photos of what I'm getting and a link to the website for anyone curious:

http://turbosawmill.com/

View attachment 40803 View attachment 40804 View attachment 40805 View attachment 40806 View attachment 40807

Been looking at these a lot lately aswell. Pretty sure the are a purely kiwi invention, not Aussie.

Have never seen one in person though. Lucas and Peterson seem to be only ones around here.

I didn't think the budget model that runs the chainsaw power head could cut to the dimensions you stated.

Must confess though, will probably be a Peterson for me unless I build a clone of the log locust for giggles :)

Those warrior mills look really nice though... Should have put this in the milling forum... ;)
 

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Wouldn't it be just as simple to pop the clutch off and remove the oil drive gear. I'm guessing most guy do that ever once in a while to do extra cleaning anyways.


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