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Triple Wall Chimney Advice

kingOFgEEEks

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So, it's finally happening. October 12th, the contractor is coming, taking our entire roof structure off, and putting back a new roof (Going from 5/12 rafters to 10/12 with attic trusses on both ends, and cathedral trusses in the middle).

Currently, we have a brick chimney with a terra cotta flue that goes right up through the middle of the house. I don't want to change this - having a central chimney has lots of advantages, and we are planning on incorporating it into our new kitchen island when all is said and done.

I want to replace everything, right from the basement to the peak, with a new triple wall chimney.

Are there any better places to buy than just googling it online?

What should I look out for, and especially what should I avoid?

I'm looking at about 24-25' total length from where it goes through the basement ceiling, up to the peak of the roof. I don't want to have to climb to the peak to clean the chimney, so do I put a cap on, or leave it open?


Thanks!
 

stihl livin

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I’ve bought it both off line and at menards. Not sure this helps but menards has 11 percent still going until further notice from what a friend that works there said.
 

Czed

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Menards beat my local shop by 200.00
And is much better quality
 

kingOFgEEEks

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Czed

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kingOFgEEEks

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They are several states away from me
Order online
Looking at it now. Looks like they have double wall Supervent brand. It says it's class A - is it as good as triple wall for a wood framed house?
 

beaglebriar

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FWIW Chris, I got my triple wall at HEP sales up in the valley. They're prices are always competitive and they normally are way better priced than Lowe's for stuff. I would definitely use a chimney cap and then invest in some fiberglass cleaning rods and a brush so you can clean from the bottom.

My house is either a 10/12 or 12/12 pitch and I'd never do that again. It absolutely sucks to climb around on if you have to make any repairs or want to put up an antenna etc.....and you will. If we ever move it'll be a ranch with a 4 or 6/12 pitch or nothing. Lol. But it does look nice.[emoji1]
 

kingOFgEEEks

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FWIW Chris, I got my triple wall at HEP sales up in the valley. They're prices are always competitive and they normally are way better priced than Lowe's for stuff. I would definitely use a chimney cap and then invest in some fiberglass cleaning rods and a brush so you can clean from the bottom.

My house is either a 10/12 or 12/12 pitch and I'd never do that again. It absolutely sucks to climb around on if you have to make any repairs or want to put up an antenna etc.....and you will. If we ever move it'll be a ranch with a 4 or 6/12 pitch or nothing. Lol. But it does look nice.[emoji1]
Now that's a drive i would take.

I tried to talk Mrs. geek into doing a second floor and then just staying 5/12 with the new roof, but she thought that would make the house too big... so we're adding attic trusses over 2/3 of the house and still nearly doubling it... Women. :copas:
 

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Now that's a drive i would take.

I tried to talk Mrs. geek into doing a second floor and then just staying 5/12 with the new roof, but she thought that would make the house too big... so we're adding attic trusses over 2/3 of the house and still nearly doubling it... Women. :copas:
If you go with a steel roof you'll have less headaches down the road. I replaced ours with 40 year shingles around 2008. We've had a couple minor leaks and they already are showing wear. Next roof will be steel for sure.
 

Czed

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Looking at it now. Looks like they have double wall Supervent brand. It says it's class A - is it as good as triple wall for a wood framed house?
I bought triple wall from them 7 year's ago
I haven't needed any since.
 

Czed

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Now that's a drive i would take.

I tried to talk Mrs. geek into doing a second floor and then just staying 5/12 with the new roof, but she thought that would make the house too big... so we're adding attic trusses over 2/3 of the house and still nearly doubling it... Women. :copas:
Go metal
My 40 year shingles are done after 19 years
Going metal
 

Al Smith

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I might just add I lined a clay liner chimney with 24 gauge single wall stainless steel a few years ago .It was 9" clay liner that I slipped a 7" liner in and packed fiber glass around the 5 feet exposed above the roof .That's the only part that was exposed to the wind that would creosote .I bought the pipe at a building supply much cheaper than a box store or so called stove shop and used stainless pop rivets on the joints . Just a thought because inside a brick chimney you really don't need double or triple wall .
That high up from the fire the stainless steel would never get hot enough to cause damage to fiber glass .The only part that shows any build up is the exposed 6" above the chimney going into the cap and it's the hard kind that will not burn .I run a brush though it once a year .Total length is only about 14-15 feet .
 

kingOFgEEEks

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I might just add I lined a clay liner chimney with 24 gauge single wall stainless steel a few years ago .It was 9" clay liner that I slipped a 7" liner in and packed fiber glass around the 5 feet exposed above the roof .That's the only part that was exposed to the wind that would creosote .I bought the pipe at a building supply much cheaper than a box store or so called stove shop and used stainless pop rivets on the joints . Just a thought because inside a brick chimney you really don't need double or triple wall .
That high up from the fire the stainless steel would never get hot enough to cause damage to fiber glass .The only part that shows any build up is the exposed 6" above the chimney going into the cap and it's the hard kind that will not burn .I run a brush though it once a year .Total length is only about 14-15 feet .
I'm demoing out all the masonry chimney for a couple reasons. 1 - it's not in great shape. 2 - it's not where I want it - I'm going to move the chimney a couple feet to get it out of the peak of the house.
 

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Few things-
1. If anyone is considering a steel/tin roof, consider standing seam vs. traditional barn tin style. If you go traditional and want to do it yourself, careful on the neoprene washer screws.
2. Most Class A pipe is good quality and has to meet standards. Do NOT mix and match brands at any point in your run. Sometimes they appear to mate up but actually don’t.
3. Get a proper support package (ceiling and roof) based on your roof pitch and plan.

Questions on your plan-
What stove?
Cleaning plans?
Gonna chase it and get a “chimney” look?
Sketch out what you’re thinking and post it if you’re comfortable. Guys on here and FHC can help ya out.
 

kingOFgEEEks

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Few things-
1. If anyone is considering a steel/tin roof, consider standing seam vs. traditional barn tin style. If you go traditional and want to do it yourself, careful on the neoprene washer screws.
2. Most Class A pipe is good quality and has to meet standards. Do NOT mix and match brands at any point in your run. Sometimes they appear to mate up but actually don’t.
3. Get a proper support package (ceiling and roof) based on your roof pitch and plan.

Questions on your plan-
What stove?
Cleaning plans?
Gonna chase it and get a “chimney” look?
Sketch out what you’re thinking and post it if you’re comfortable. Guys on here and FHC can help ya out.

-I have a charmaster wood/oil combo furnace. I've been using it for 6 winters, and I think I've put about 20 gallons of oil through it total. I burn 6-7 cords a year. The specs for the furnace call for 8" chimney, so that's what I'll use. 25' of new smooth chimney should make a nice draft!

-I have figured on the square cathedral ceiling support and roof jack and tieback that the mfr. makes as part of the whole system. Also will have a fireblock at the basement ceiling/1st floor transition. Below that, I'll come down 18" and then attach a black stovepipe elbow, then transition over to the charmaster. I've been running this way into the old chimney, and it allows me to let the fire go out, take the elbows apart, and clean everything from the bottom.

-Yes, going to enclose it in lumber and sheetrock. We're going 'open plan', and making it a cathedral ceiling, so it will be a focal point between the living room and kitchen. I have been drawing up my architectural plan of how the house will be. Right now we have the location all figured out, with the ability to shift it left or right, depending on where the rafters land. I want to avoid any bends in the triple wall
- straight shot all the way.
 

kingOFgEEEks

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This drawing is still in progress, but gives an idea of placement in the 1st floor. I'm still working on cross-section of the house, but roughly:

5' from stove outlet to basement ceiling/1st floor decking
12-13' from 1st floor decking to cathedral ceiling
4' from ceiling to roof decking
4-5' protruding from the roof, to get 3' clearance from the peak of the house.

2020-08-25 08.37.00.jpg 2020-08-25 08.37.06.jpg
 

BuckthornBonnie

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It’ll be a fun project for ya, man. Lots of thinking involved (my favorite).

+1 on the clean-out T at the bottom. I recommend a cap that has a minimal spark screen. They’re less likely to plug but still provide protection. Birds are a risk, but that happens with nearly every chimney.

I clean my two chimneys from the bottom up and can get the caps relatively clean without breaking out the ladder. They self clean over a summer with wind/rain/thermal expansion, too.

8” ID SS Class A triple wall = pricey but soo worth it. I’ve dismantled some that was 20yrs old and it was fine. Your setup will last indefinitely with proper burning practices.
 

BuckthornBonnie

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When you pull the permits, ask your town guy what he’ll/she’ll need to see before ya build the chase. Remember those clearances to combustibles (2”) are critical.

I recommend the locking bands for each joint. Look around for other people in your area who have done this for ideas.

Yes to straight shot with class A.
 

beaglebriar

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Few things-
1. If anyone is considering a steel/tin roof, consider standing seam vs. traditional barn tin style. If you go traditional and want to do it yourself, careful on the neoprene washer screws.
2. Most Class A pipe is good quality and has to meet standards. Do NOT mix and match brands at any point in your run. Sometimes they appear to mate up but actually don’t.
3. Get a proper support package (ceiling and roof) based on your roof pitch and plan.

Questions on your plan-
What stove?
Cleaning plans?
Gonna chase it and get a “chimney” look?
Sketch out what you’re thinking and post it if you’re comfortable. Guys on here and FHC can help ya out.
My neighbor did standing seam and that truly is a beautiful roof. I'm pretty sure he said lifetime warranty as well.
 

kingOFgEEEks

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It’ll be a fun project for ya, man. Lots of thinking involved (my favorite).

+1 on the clean-out T at the bottom. I recommend a cap that has a minimal spark screen. They’re less likely to plug but still provide protection. Birds are a risk, but that happens with nearly every chimney.

I clean my two chimneys from the bottom up and can get the caps relatively clean without breaking out the ladder. They self clean over a summer with wind/rain/thermal expansion, too.

8” ID SS Class A triple wall = pricey but soo worth it. I’ve dismantled some that was 20yrs old and it was fine. Your setup will last indefinitely with proper burning practices.
I was looking at this cap,
shopping
and thinking I might take the mesh out of it to prevent it from plugging and just keep the cap. Birds aren't really an issue where we are at - I've lived in this house all my life, with the exception of 10 years for college and starting my career, and we've never had a cap on the chimney that's here, without issue.
 
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