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TriLink chains (info, experience, thoughts, mods)

Wilhelm

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Official TriLink chain thread!

Post pictures, videos, information, thoughts, experiences, questions, modifications.

Thank You.
 

Wilhelm

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- Made in China
- Never stops stretching
- Some cutters hold an edge real well, others not so much
- Yes
- agreed, my first TriLink loop came close to maxing out the tensioner, but snapped before that happened
- I am quite surprised with the chisel loop I wore out, it could cut through dry dirt embedded in the logs bark and still keep bucking up a few more logs - these chains cut crappy, but they hold their crappy edge very well

For now I'll ad:
- they cut worth poop out of the box
- they don't noodle well
- they are cheap, as such I didn't and don't expect them to perform like a brand chain

I'll have to find some time and scrounge together my pictures and clips regarding my TriLink loops and post them.

I am now using a "new" TriLink semi chisel loop on my Dolmar PS-7900, I have cut off the shark fins from the tie straps and re-set the rakers at 0.5-0.6mm - now the loop works fairly well.
I hope to buck my neighbors SIL's firewood logs this week, I'll be using my PS-7900 and this modified semi chisel TriLink loop.
 

Wilhelm

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Bucked some oak and beech logs today, utilized my Dolmar PS-7900 and a modified (shark fins cut off, rakers re-set to 0.5-0.6mm) semi chisel TriLink chain.
After the first tank of fuel I hit this lodged in a log:
DSC00288.JPG

Surprisingly the chain wasn't damaged, it did cut less well but I've kept bucking for another tank full of fuel without touching up the chain.
I'll sharpen the chain tomorrow and take a close look whether any individual teeth got damaged more severely.

This chain (TriLink semi chisel) wouldn't bore cut worth poop, noticed it today.
 

Wilhelm

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Back from the dead!

I wore my TriLink loops out bucking very dirty firewood logs, hated doing it not for the chains but for the saws I utilized.

What is the consensus on recent production TriLink chain, other than them costing nearly as much as Brand name chains?

My local Husky dealer is selling "Kramp" branded TriLink chains as an alternative to the Husqvarna chains they stock.
The TriLink loops are blister packaged and feature golden cutters claiming Titanuim coated.
They are merely 10% cheaper than a same spec X-Cut though.

Has anyone used these?
If so, please report!

IMG_20240130_151023.jpg IMG_20240130_151034.jpg


I may just go and buy one in the shortest DL count they have that I can match a bar to.
One chain won't hurt the budget.
 

Partner

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I have one that looks unused, 72dl, so I'll compare it to the Stihl RS and see which one is better 🤠 Besides, you can always use a cheaper chain for a contaminated tree 😉
 

Wilhelm

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That's the point, those TriLink chains are not "cheap", they are priced barely less than X-Cut.

I have a bunch of loops I don't care much about , got them in two separate B&C lot purchases.
I don't need to buy a "cheap" chain for dirty work, I just use loops I don't like!
 

Partner

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Maybe 🤠 I don't know how much it costs because I got it together with the saw. Only mine has white blades
 

Wilhelm

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IMG_20240130_151023.jpg

TriLink , .325" .058" 72DL - 18.58€

Same spec Husqvarna H21 loop is 21.60€

I would give the TriLink a try at 10€ top, but at 18.58€ I doubt I will.
 

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Maybe the one with the white blade is €10
 

hacskaroly

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Post pictures, videos, information, thoughts, experiences, questions, modifications.
At the store I worked at, we sold Stihl, Husqvarna, Oregon and TriLink chain. Of the four when people would look to TriLink chain as a bargin because it ended up being about $10 less than the others. From others that have used it most people complained about it that it would not hold an edge and stretched really easily. While it was my job to sell product, the way I marketed TriLink was to tell people if they knew they were going to be in the dirt, use TriLink and throw it away when you were done, save the Stihl, Husqvarna and Oregon chain for when you know you will be cutting clean wood. I knew several people that got one to have just in case they knew they were going to beat up a chain.

I have a loop that I got from a customer that is almost brand new, some how the chain jumped off and put some burs on the drivers preventing them from fitting in the bar. I have not taken the time yet to file them down and give the chain a try, but I look forward to giving it a try and see how it does.
 

Wilhelm

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At the store I worked at, we sold Stihl, Husqvarna, Oregon and TriLink chain. Of the four when people would look to TriLink chain as a bargin because it ended up being about $10 less than the others. From others that have used it most people complained about it that it would not hold an edge and stretched really easily. While it was my job to sell product, the way I marketed TriLink was to tell people if they knew they were going to be in the dirt, use TriLink and throw it away when you were done, save the Stihl, Husqvarna and Oregon chain for when you know you will be cutting clean wood. I knew several people that got one to have just in case they knew they were going to beat up a chain.

I have a loop that I got from a customer that is almost brand new, some how the chain jumped off and put some burs on the drivers preventing them from fitting in the bar. I have not taken the time yet to file them down and give the chain a try, but I look forward to giving it a try and see how it does.
Yes, my 5 TriLink loops were "good" for very dirty logs, actually better than Stihl/Oregon/Dolmar/Carlton.
But they cut poorly and very slow when sharp, lowering the rakers only demanded more power from the PH and caused excessive stretch.

With shipping I got TriLink loops off eBay from Germany for 13€/loop.
3/8", .058", 72DL, semi & full chisel
I strongly disliked them from day one.
Two snapped on me with about 1/4th to 1/3rd life remaining on the cutters.

There is a place on the market for them, but NOT at a "premium" price.
 

Wilhelm

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For me Archer is marginally better than TriLink.
I have two of them, don't like them much either.

Don't know about Duke's chain, it looks good though.
 

HumBurner

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Yes, my 5 TriLink loops were "good" for very dirty logs, actually better than Stihl/Oregon/Dolmar/Carlton.
But they cut poorly and very slow when sharp, lowering the rakers only demanded more power from the PH and caused excessive stretch.
Is this with the factory profile or how you would sharpen them?

Kind of odd that reshaping the cutter wouldn't bring it up to snuff with a regular chain. If two different chains teeth are made nearly identical (after sharpening, not factory), I'm at a loss as to why the chain would still cut slower and need more power.

Any ideas?
 

jakethesnake

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Is this with the factory profile or how you would sharpen them?

Kind of odd that reshaping the cutter wouldn't bring it up to snuff with a regular chain. If two different chains teeth are made nearly identical (after sharpening, not factory), I'm at a loss as to why the chain would still cut slower and need more power.

Any ideas?
If I had to guess. I think the tooth geometry or angle of attack is not as precise as say Oregon.

Like it’s hogging more so than cutting. I’m not super picky on short bars and I will run tri link But I think it just doesn’t have the same angle

Oregon is just better at design if I’m guessing.
 

jakethesnake

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IMG_5429.jpegEven those little lines on the sides of these teeth aren’t accidental. It’s the little stuff Oregon does that just makes them faster/smoother. This is lgx that needs sharpening pretty bad. Looks like I was cutting dirt Im no scientist but it’s overall better stuff. More precise
 
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