tips on chain

[JIMG]

Novice miller here.
Power company took down some 3' rock maple stumps and homeowner is interested in having me slab them up If I leave her two. there is a 14 footer I might cut in half, an 8 footer and a 6. All at about 30-36" at the bark. I have 31 1/2" of useable bar on the CS mill. I think I can do it if I debark and maybe trim one side as I get towards the center. The used 394 has gone through max width cuts before, about 8 foot runs.
Among other things I want to know what you guys know about chain. I have been using Carlton 3/8 Semichisel, full house (i think its called) sharpened with one of those 12v granberg bar mounts.
If I am not too overly worried about the best finish I can get, should I try semiskip or full skip for more speed and less strain on the PH?
I am also considering ordering a bigger bar. Is it a good idea to run a 42" or 48" bar on this or is that asking a little too much of a 394 in some pretty hard wood?

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Subbed, fo4 the info

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I will add, the correct angles and less teeth to sharpen will make it quicker. And also make a bigger bar on the ph less stressful.

 

[Wolverine]

I ran a 50" bar and had it maxxed out in a maple base once. I had my son aux oil @ the tip that time but it sure wasn't too much wood for the saw. That was before it got ported too. Was full skip, square filed full chisel. It hauled down through the wood pretty good.
https://opeforum.com/threads/maple-crotch-strategy.4765/


I mill with full chisel chain, square ground now, but used to file it that way. On my 42" bar, its full skip. The 28" and 24" are full comp (not full house, I doubt you're using full house). I've never owned semi-chisel chain that long as I don't prefer using it.

On this oak - https://opeforum.com/threads/oak.19899/ I started with the 42 and full skip. Milled fine but too much bar for the wood, so next time I came back I had the 28" and full comp. It cut MUCH faster!



Less cutters w/ full and semi skip are to help carry chip out of big wood, not "lessen" stress on a power head.


Milling chain angles:

 

[JIMG]

Wolverine, that there chain is nice. I doubt I will be able to get square filing down any time soon. I barely dont suck at round filing at this point. My worn rip chain is sharpened to 5 degrees. "Full comp" must be what I have. (What is full house?)
I will try out full skip, full chisel. Any manufacturer I should consider?
Another issue and maybe this should be located on another forum, but I see you have the same powerhead and maybe a similar issue. The saw starts hard when hot lately. If it dies in a cut its a bear to start till its cooled off. Press/vac checked out when cold. I am going to try opening up the impulse hole in the carb a little and maybe try to check for leaks when its warm? Saw was bought used, it's been rebuilt at least once already.
-Info is very appreciated, gents.

 

[Wolverine]

Wolverine, that there chain is nice. I doubt I will be able to get square filing down any time soon. I barely dont suck at round filing at this point. My worn rip chain is sharpened to 5 degrees. "Full comp" must be what I have. (What is full house?)
I will try out full skip, full chisel. Any manufacturer I should consider?
Another issue and maybe this should be located on another forum, but I see you have the same powerhead and maybe a similar issue. The saw starts hard when hot lately. If it dies in a cut its a bear to start till its cooled off. Press/vac checked out when cold. I am going to try opening up the impulse hole in the carb a little and maybe try to check for leaks when its warm? Saw was bought used, it's been rebuilt at least once already.
-Info is very appreciated, gents.

When I first started milling, I thought I had a vapor lock condition. Turns out, my coil was failing. I bought a cheap chinese one to basically see if that was the issue, and it was. That coil robbed power and didn't last long before it crapped out, so I bought new oem and I had my 394 back. Moral of the story, don't cheap out on coils.

THis is full house.

Chain brand is personal preference. Stihl chain is #1 stupid expensive and #2 harder than others, so it holds it's edge longer, which also makes it harder on files. I don't think it's worth the high cost. I have mostly Oregon LGX and EXL. Whatever works for you.

 

[JIMG]

Same deal. I thought it was the coil at first. I have an AM coil on for about a week now. Still not starting up if it goes off after a hot run. I will get an OEM coil as a next step. Thanks.

What is a "vapor lock condition" ?

I took a closer look through the full threads you attached above. Very nice work, sir and good information.

 

[huskihl]

Same deal. I thought it was the coil at first. I have an AM coil on for about a week now. Still not starting up if it goes off after a hot run. I will get an OEM coil as a next step. Thanks.

What is a "vapor lock condition" ?

I took a closer look through the full threads you attached above. Very nice work, sir and good information.

Try the new oem coil and a new ngk spark plug first.
If it still does it, there is a plastic dam that goes around the intake block and they usually break due to heat. It’s purpose is to keep heat from the engine away from the carburetor. Might check yours to see if it’s broken or even there at all

 

[JIMG]

That dam is replaced. fell apart in my hands when I was pulling the carb for a rebuild.
I will grab a plug when I get the coil.
Good of you to chime in with ideas, much appreciated.

 

[Wolverine]

Get an NGK or Denso. I've had issues w/ other brands milling. I've read of guys having problems w/ Bosch and I've had issues w/ Champion. If it gives you fits after the coil swap, open the gas cap and make sure your tank vent is venting properly.

Vapor lock is when the fuel changes to a gas state in a fuel line, which disrupts the ability of the pump to pull fuel. Fuel gets hot and vaporizes.

 

[JIMG]

Got it.
Sumbitch was starting hard cold now. Waiting on the OEM coil and Husky branded plugs (any reviews of those?) from a dealer now.
I'm thinking of picking up a solid used or new 395 so I'm not left hanging next time. Thinking of picking up a 42" or so bar as well and welding up a longer milling frame.

 

[huskihl]

Got it.
Sumbitch was starting hard cold now. Waiting on the OEM coil and Husky branded plugs (any reviews of those?) from a dealer now.
I'm thinking of picking up a solid used or new 395 so I'm not left hanging next time. Thinking of picking up a 42" or so bar as well and welding up a longer milling frame.

If you’re interested in a complete rebuilt 395, let me know. I’m sure I can get you into a rebuilt ported 395 for less than you’d have in to a new 395.

 

[Joe P]

If you’re interested in a complete rebuilt 395, let me know. I’m sure I can get you into a rebuilt ported 395 for less than you’d have in to a new 395.

I can vouch for huskihl saws. Running one of his 572's and with a sharp chain I could cut better than a foot per minute in 20" oak. Chain was a full house with a granberg grind and was only good for about 2 cuts, but when it was sharp, the saw did fantastic. I would run WOT for about 2 feet, then idle it down for about a minute and go again.

I've got an oregon dedicated ripping chain to try next, then going to try a full skip chain. Hopefully on one of the chinese clones to keep the wear and tear off the good saw.

 

[JIMG]

Coil is in. Saw is back in action as far as I can tell. Only issue apparent now is its idling at 2700-3000 with idle screw all the way in. I'm living with that for now as the saw performs well otherwise. I may have to scrounge up a functional replacement carb for this one later on.
My experience has been that AM coils are a waste of time and money for what it's worth.
Back to milling when the rain lets up.
There is yet another 4 foot dia. maple trunk on the ground in the village here. I wish I had the equipment to pluck these things up and take them home. The current technique is to mill them where they lie. Obvious drawbacks are godawful noise and mess, but I can truck the slabs home a few at a time in my little ranger that way.

 

[huskihl]

Your L screw is possibly way to rich

 

[Stump Shot]

Your L screw is possibly way to rich

+1 on diagnosis, other than the word to is lean, it needs another "o" to fatten it into proper perspective. Lol

#damnvariables

 

[JIMG]

I played with it for a good long while. Started at about 1 1/4 out and fiddled with it from there. tinkered with lowering the metering height just a little, checked for leaks, debris, butterfly (?) valve seating all the way shut etc. Ran out of time and patience. Its not idling fast enough for the 3' chain to spin at least.

 

[Stump Shot]

I played with it for a good long while. Started at about 1 1/4 out and fiddled with it from there. tinkered with lowering the metering height just a little, checked for leaks, debris, butterfly (?) valve seating all the way shut etc. Ran out of time and patience. Its not idling fast enough for the 3' chain to spin at least.

Idle speed is only 2,500 RPM for your saw.

 

[JIMG]

New meteor piston, new intake block, new crank seals, new oem coil, and the 394 is finally working, milling with a 52" bar completely maxed out in hard maple.

 

[JIMG]