Taking down rakers using a super jolly...

[Colonel 428]

Any tips or tricks for taking down the rakers evenly using a Tecomec super jolly? Thanks, Steve.

 

[mitchm1]

Take little nibbles and measure
Repeat
Very easy to take to much


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[Colonel 428]

Thank you. Yep, got a couple of chains now that I've gone too far on and are a real pain to cut with.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Like @huskihl told me, sometimes “just a few sparks” is all you need to get where you need to be. Measure three times, check twice, cut once. Best advice ever I got...

 

[Colonel 428]

Yes indeed. I'm bad about "guesstimating" raker height. But I'd rather have them a hair too low than too high, especially on bigger saws. I've got a couple of raker depth tool gauges, but honestly I haven't figured out exactly how to use them properly.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Yes indeed. I'm bad about "guesstimating" raker height. But I'd rather have them a hair too low than too high, especially on bigger saws. I've got a couple of raker depth tool gauges, but honestly I haven't figured out exactly how to use them properly.

Straight edge and feeler gauge is another pearl from Kevin. Make one perfect, then make a grinder setup that replicates it for the rest. If using a reversible motor, wheel should turn towards the working corner.

 

[Colonel 428]

So a straight edge across the top of a couple of cutter heads, then measure raker height off that? What do I use for spacing between the straight edge and raker? Please don't tell me I have to buy a micrometer or digital calipers .

 

[huskihl]

Feeler gauges. They usually go from .0015” up to .035” or so.

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[Stump Shot]

I just use a raker gauge and set the wheel height so it can still be wiggled under the wheel with some resistance. Then go to it with the 1/4" flat wheel.

 

[Colonel 428]

That makes sense too. Thanks Mr Stump Shot .

 

[Stump Shot]

That makes sense too. Thanks Mr Stump Shot .

There's plenty of raker gauge sizes out there to suite your needs, standard being .025" for most and what I was using in the picture.
So if you have a big powerful saw that wants to take more try a .030" or an adjustable or take to .025" and drop just a twitch more and try it scenario. There's multiple ways to get to where you need to be and be repeatable for the next time.

 

[Stihl036]

When using my USG to lower depth gauges I set it to lightly touch the depth gauge and take a little off. then I take a straight edge and feeler gauges and see what I did. Then I take a little more until I get where I want to be. Usually a little less than thirty thou. When doing the other side depth gauges usually no adjustment is needed but I check the first one anyway.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I saw I vid of a guy who set up the height of the wheel for one side of the chain. Then turned the chain around so the other side of the chain was hit by the same point on the wheel on a Oregon knockoff.



I’ve used this method when setting the dg on a milling chain
I set the height as discribed above then pull the chain along while holding the wheel down, and not drag it to much and hit the front of the tooth.
Also Being carful to only take a little bit off each dg, if I need to take more off then a second pass of that side of the chain with the wheel reset in the height.

i then finish the chain up with a hand file,,

 

[huskihl]

If the grinder is calibrated properly, as in your left cutters are the same length as your right cutters without adjusting the chain stop, you can grind left and right rakers all in one pass and they will be the same height.