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Stihl ignition module 044 046

a. palmer jr.

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I put this on another forum and haven't gotten any answers yet: I have a Stihl 046 that has no spark, it also has a starter cover that states MS440 so I thought that was what it was. I ordered a module for an 044 and although it now has spark it appears very weak and the saw still will not start. I noticed that an 046 and an 044 take a different part number module and wondered what the difference is since the modules are identical on the outside. The saw has the plastic finned flywheel which is correct for the 046. Part # for the 046 is: 1122 400 1314 the one we installed is 000 400 1300.
 

Bigmac

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Poly flywheel is 046, the coil for the 046 had an advance curve, that retards the timing for easier starting and then advances it once running. The 044 has fixed timing, and uses the same
Universal coil as the 026 and 036.
 

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Did you change out the coil wire as well? And make sure that the choke is working correctly. And how did you set your gap on the coil? If the Gap is to much it will give you grief.
 

drf256

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As mentioned above, the 046 coil has start retard. The 1300 coils are referred to as “dummy coils” because they produce spark and no retard upon starting.

The 044 and 046 share the same starter cover, so you should be fine there. Also should be fine with the 1300 coil, you have a decomp valve. It’s possible the flywheel is bad, but I’ve only ever seen them go bad if they took a good hit/rubbing on the magnets.

Have to tried to start the saw with some mix down the carb bore? I know it’s dumb, but did you put a new plug in it? Can’t begin to tell you the problems I’ve seen with these Chiwanese Bosch plugs-it’s a shame that Bosch allowed its reputation/name to be smeared by this product.
 

a. palmer jr.

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I still haven't got the saw to hit a lick yet, tried both new coils and although they produced some spark it was pretty weak. I have squirted a small amount of fuel mix directly into the cylinder and still couldn't get it to start. I'm thinking about emptying the fuel tank and removing the (new) spark plug and letting it sit upside down over night to possibly drain out the crankcase if there's any fuel in it. I've ordered another flywheel although I'm not sure it's the problem..
 

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I heard the plastic flywheel coil also stablizes spark timing due to flywheel flex. I have seen one bad flywheel on them with weak or reversed polarity magnets, don't remembe which fault.
 

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I still haven't got the saw to hit a lick yet, tried both new coils and although they produced some spark it was pretty weak. I have squirted a small amount of fuel mix directly into the cylinder and still couldn't get it to start. I'm thinking about emptying the fuel tank and removing the (new) spark plug and letting it sit upside down over night to possibly drain out the crankcase if there's any fuel in it. I've ordered another flywheel although I'm not sure it's the problem..
Have you checked to see if the fly wheel key has sheared? Have had many saws with weak spark run great, sometimes it can be hard to see. A little more background on the saw would be nice! Have you done a compression check? done a pressure VAC test? Is this a new to you saw or a saw that you have had that just now is acting up?
 

Wonkydonkey

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I read through this thread and every reply is good advice..

Even if the saw seems to have compression, it’s worthy to check by taking the muff off.
Maybe just a bit of brake/carb cleaner in the carb throat, to see if it fires.
Use a known working plug and compare sparks/colour etc.

One other thing... even if you have a weak spark, when the plug is in the cylinder and under compression it can and does other things, Ie not spark..
although you have changed the coil..have you tried it without the earth on the coil, the on/off switch can sometimes cause a weak spark by partially earthing out...

Keep us posted on your progress ;)
 

a. palmer jr.

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You need fuel, spark, and compression in a two-stroke motor. Have you verified good compression and a good working carburetor?
I haven't checked compression because it seems very high by pulling the rope, I have to use compression release to turn it over, but good thought and I will get around to checking it even though it seems plenty. I ruled out carburetor since I've been squirting a small amount of fuel right down the spark plug hole and it doesn't fire..
 

a. palmer jr.

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Have you checked to see if the fly wheel key has sheared? Have had many saws with weak spark run great, sometimes it can be hard to see. A little more background on the saw would be nice! Have you done a compression check? done a pressure VAC test? Is this a new to you saw or a saw that you have had that just now is acting up?
The saw belongs to a customer of a shop near me, the shop lets me work on their rebuilds and ones that are difficult to get going. No compression test or vac/press test yet, just mainly trying to get it to fire with a prime...
 

a. palmer jr.

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Have you checked to see if the fly wheel key has sheared? Have had many saws with weak spark run great, sometimes it can be hard to see. A little more background on the saw would be nice! Have you done a compression check? done a pressure VAC test? Is this a new to you saw or a saw that you have had that just now is acting up?
Will check flywheel key when new flywheel arrives this week.
 

a. palmer jr.

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I'll have to give jacob j the credit for this one, I went out and checked the compression on the saw this morning and it was 80 psi. with de-comp valve pulled out. I never thought it might be low compression because the fellows that were working on this saw first were messing with the ignition, saying it had no spark or weak spark and the saw did seem hard to turn over like it had compression, nobody even mentioned compression until it was brought up here...I'm now awaiting further instructions from owner as to what to do with it...again, thanks.
 
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